Sony Subwoofer Amp / Audio Upgrade

[Shadow351]

So I'm finally tired of the Sony audio system as it is and am looking to upgrade.

Does anyone know the output specs for the Sony DSP and the external subwoofer amp mounted below it?

I think I will upgrade it in steps as to keep the up front cost down. I've read several threads about upgrade options and I think I will upgrade the system like this:

1. Replace the Stock 6x9 subwoofers with a pair of Pioneer ib-flat 8" subs (I have a singe 12" ib flat in a box under the back seat of my extended cab F150 and it hits hard so hopefully the pair of 8" will hit reasonably)

2. Swap the 6x8 door speakers, I'm thinking either the Kenwood KFC-D681C, Rockford Fostgate R168X2, or Pioneer TS-A6880F. What are other's using in this price range (~$50/pair)?

3. Swap the factory subwoofer amp for one from a Mach audio car. I read online that someone swapped the factory subwoofer amp for a Mach amp and it plugged right in and helped the bass out significantly. My 94 Mustang has the Mach 460 sound system and the connectors are the same but the pin arrangement is different. I'm looking at a MA245 and the input pin arrangement is correct but I can't find an output pin arrangement. It's not expensive so I may give it a try. Does anyone have an Idea what the Output specs of the MA245 are? What about the speaker side output pin arrangement? (shot in the dark questions)

4. Lastly, If the above is not enough, I've got a 900W amp and 12" Sub in a box I can throw in the trunk but would need to tap into the speaker lines at the DSP. I don't like hacking the factory harness apart, does anyone make a "T" harness I can use to tap into the factory speaker lines (for a line converter)?

Thanks

 

[Lostneye]

What year?

I love IB, sounds amazing but output suffers. MY guess is you will be let down with 2 8"s. I have a wall behind the rear seats and run 2 12"s. 2013+ at least there is one amp behind the carpet panel in the drivers rear quarter. I have the PAC Ampro which installs in the dash. It retains the factory amp so you can disconnect whatever speakers you want to run and amp to power them through the PAC. You can also just use a line output converter to get signal for a sub amp.

 

[Shadow351]

2010, It has the DSP with the built in amp for the Full range and tweeters as well as the separate Subwoofer amp mounted below it (both behind the carpet on the drivers side of the trunk).

Ouch, That PAC Ampro is almost $400, What does it do that a regular active line converter attached to the factory speaker outputs wouldn't do?

I don't think I want to add an amp for the tweeters and door speakers at this time, I've read lots of people say that just replacing the factory paper speakers with decent quality aftermarket speakers significantly improves sound quality.

Do you have the 8" Ib's in place of the factory 6x9s?

 

[Lostneye]

The 2010-12s have a different system. The PAC should allow you to keep the factory amp to still power what you want and run aftermarket amps for what you want. I have heard good things for just replacing speakers and adding a sub but went right past that, I am running only front tweeters and mids and 2 12s IB. I have the factory rear door mids hooked up to the factory amp but have them off most of the time. The PAC will remove the factory EQ which at least for 2013+ includes bass roll off among other tweaks to make the most of the cheap factory speakers.

 

[Shadow351]

2010 definitely has bass roll off, it is particularly noticeable with the windows down on the highway, no bass can be heard over the wind noise.

I wonder if 2x 10" or 2x 12" IB's can be suspended from the deck lid, I'd rather not take up truck space for a box if possible. I'll have a look "when" I get some free time.