My SHO is slow ...

[AutoSHO]

Another thing worth checking - If the car doesn't hold an idle cold, it means either The car doesnt know its cold (ECT is bad) or there's something allowing not performing within spec (fuel pressure, MAF, Injectors, Vacuum Leak). If the car is hesitant, flat on power overall, I would look to the MAF.

 

[SHOWYA]

Well i did clean the MAF with elictric parts cleaner and some q-tips. It made a bit of a difference but nothing much (50MM MAF). So after that happend i decided to swap it with my C&L 73MM which is not good at all ran worse (Thats why 73MAF was off in the first place). I guess im due for a new MAF. Im gonna run codes again and see what i get. Anybody know what is the waranty on a MAF from autozone?

I did perform the Idle reset.

Also my waterpump is starting to make noises and yes, its starting to leak. But if its leaking shouldnt it not let me run the car at all?

 

[SHOWYA]

Ok here is what was done....
I replaced the MAF with one from autozone. Still having same problems. ITS A REALLY SLOW DOG!!! I can floor it and nothing. And when i do so its like im flooding the engine. I almost got rear ended by a semi because it wont accelerate. I erased the codes with the Actron SCANTOOL computer and did KOER , 159 and 225 come up. On KOEO i get 111.

I know im getting antifreeze on the PIP sensor because of a faulty water pump, Is this my problem?

<small>[ October 15, 2003, 09:21 AM: Message edited by: SHOWYA ]</small>

 

[SHOWYA]

Im going to do a fuel pressure test tonight. I know there is a rattle in the exhaust and its comming from the resonator. I think im going to have that removed. I know there might be a posibility of cats failing ... but there is no rotten egg smell. Does that matter? Now that i changed the TPS, IAC and MAF it idles perfect but still no power. Cold start always starts at 500rpm but doesnt die until i try to step on the gas pedal.

 

[AutoSHO]

Did the power loss start happening very suddenly or has it been a slow decline?

 

[91 Plus]

unplug your maf and take it for a spin..

 

[SHOWYA]

Im not sure if it has been a slow decline or sudden ... but i think i would go with the slow decline. I say that because the car ran fine ... the one day it felt weird and now well i can drive it but i gotta let it warm up. Im getting code 225 am going to replace the knock sensor since its still under waranty. I want to get it up and running correctly before the week end since i want to go to the SHOCAGO meeting.

I will disconnect the MAF and run it ... i will keep you all posted.

 

[AutoSHO]

A couple other things I just thought of - Unplug the battery and remove the superchip. See if it makes any difference.

Also - does your cooling fan turn on? Does it turn on at the same temp it always has?

 

[FriedRiceBob]

have we checked the fuel filter yet?

 

[SHOWYA]

Fuel filter was replaced with my last oil change. I dont think it will clog up that quick or will it?

I had unplugged the super chip and it still is. Still ran like doodoo.
Fan seems to go on at same temp. Why u ask autoSHO?

I did replace the knock sensor last night. I did snap a Intake bolt headbang but got it running again(no leaks). Now when i turned it on the RPM stayed at 500 and no mater what i did with the gas pedal it would try to die. I let it warm up still at 500RPM and once it warmed up it jumped to normal RPMs ~900. I was able to rev up the engine.

This morning was the same thing had to warm it up before i can do anything. It runs better than before but not by alot. Im at work since i work at a bodyshop im having one of the mechanics here remove the hole exhaust system... from cats to mufflers and check it out.

 

[AutoSHO]

I asked because the not-being able to drive it cold might be a sign that the ECT isn't telling the computer its cold. If the fan is coming on at the usual temp it probably not that, but I'm not certain. I find it really weird that it all the sudden has to warm up completely and idles at 500 rpms before doing so. The revs while cold should be higher than normal for idle.

Have you checked for oil in the plug wells?

 

[SHOWYA]

I did replace the wires on it ... so i know that there is no oil in the wells because i actually broke one of the wires while pulling it off because it was too dry in there. I had to pull the long plastic part that attaches to the spark plug with pliers. Plus i replaced the plug well gasgets about a year ago.

Well the exhaust has been disconnected from the cats. Ran the car again and same problem. Did test fuel pressure idle is at 36psi steady, acceleration on the engine is still slow ... once its up after 4000RPM and then floor it it will pick up and psi will be at 40.

Im going to have them at work gut the cats ... and maybe order i HIFLOW Y-PIPE thats if i dont like how it runs after gutting the cats.

Thats all i have to do left since i ruled out the fuel system. Oh yeah and unpliging the MAF DIDNT do much difference either. Still idles good. Thats after its warm. I will look into the ECT once i takle this issue.

<small>[ October 16, 2003, 07:34 PM: Message edited by: SHOWYA ]</small>

 

[SHOWYA]

SHO still down ... one of the cats was gutted and no difference when turned on. So i guess ill have to see tomorrow how it goes when i replace the waterpump that sometimes seems to be louder than the engine.

im going to check timing maybe it jump a tooth or two.

<small>[ October 16, 2003, 07:38 PM: Message edited by: SHOWYA ]</small>

 

[SHOWYA]

I figured out the problem after i took the crank pulley out.

CAN ANY BODY SAY CRANK CANCER?! The crank sprocket had a piece of it missing in the inside. The Opening guide for the sproket was twice as wide. So timing was way off. I think its called the WOOD ROUGH KEY that goes on the crank that piece was broken almost in half too. I will post pictures soon.

 

[SolidState]

not good...

start looking for a donor 3.0 or 3.2L block...

has anyone ever had the harmonic damper off before?

BTW, I'll take the rims, but those mufflers...bah!!

<small>[ October 18, 2003, 09:31 AM: Message edited by: SolidState ]</small>

 

[SHOWYA]

I guess it wouldnt be a bad idea to start looking for a block.

I did have the dampner out before to change the PIP sensor. Did i do something wrong?

Ill sell you the rims if i decide to get another car.

 

[PuckHead]

Another thing to try would be to remove the Superchip and reset the computer. Always try the simplest thing first. I had a Superchip "go bad" and it took me forever to figure it out. If removing the chip doesn't fix the problem, at least you know that it isn't the culprit.

Good luck!

Later!