My 92 MTX wont start....

[Shonuff_92]

Allrighty then... Second try to post this.. Hope it works this time. And to save a little time here, I am new to this forum but not a newbie.. And I have been researching this a little bit on this forum, searching for clues off and on for the last 12 hrs in between sleep(I work evenings).
Problem: About 2 wks ago, my wife drove the SHO to the store, she shifted into 2nd, no go power, shifted down into 1st, completely stalled. Now it wont start at all.
History: (running backwards) Fuel filter replaced after I noticed low pressure at fuel rail(no guage, much better now, still no guage), ran fine since I had the water pump replaced in early February(SuperBowl weekend), check engine light came on occasionally or when it was washed or rained(the idiot who owns this thing never checked it out ), ~250rpm's on tach when trying to start it.
Tried: Fuel pressure(mentioned above), Spark at coil for each plug(has spark), starting with CMP sensor disconnected(didn't work),
Error codes found = current - 111, stored - 157, 176, 177, 211, 214, 542. Now some of these I have seen in searching and researching this topic on here. It sounds like my CKP sensor is bad. I am not sure what my problem is or at least what the cars problem is. Thanks in advance for your time and effort in this problem.

 

[Shonuff_92]

Ran the tests...

Well I just borrowed a DMM to run the tests that were mentioned by rangerj :thumb_u: !!!!! The test was bad at the SPOUT to DIS.. This is where I need to change out the Cam sensor right???? Or maybe it is the control module... I am kinda confused right now...

 

[Bizzy]

The spout is controlled by the computer. So in ranger's description on how to check the ignition system, when he says control unit this means the computer aka EEC.

You can get to the computer by detaching the wiring harness from it (10mm bolt) then pulling the wiring harness connection off. Then drop your glove box down and you'll see a shiny metal box in there with a tag on it which tells you which computer you have. There is a plastic do-bob that you disconnect to get the computer out. Get another one, put it in place and reconnect the EEC wiring harness to it. It's always a good idea to remove the neg. battery terminal from it's post any time you're replacing electrical stuff, I'm sure you knew that, but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.

P.S. EEC's are usually very reasonably priced used. Check in the classifieds, I believe there are a few for sale.

Also, double check the wiring before you assume the computer is bad. Also make sure that the connections are clean and tight.

 

[Shonuff_92]

Thanks Bizzy

I just spent about 3 hrs(way too long) changing out the Cam sensor. And now I see that I can't understand english and jumped the gun. Hard tellin', not knowin! But.. I did see that I will need to perform the 60K here sometime soon anyway. Been too long not knowing if stuff is right or not. I will look into finding an EEC and see what I can come up with.

Is this a part that could possibly come from another model like the Lincoln Continental eatc??

 

[Bizzy]

I believe they are SHO specific though I could be wrong. You can use any of the different models available.....LOS, X2J, B9B, etc.

 

[Shonuff_92]

Looks like I can come up with an EEC from 95SHODude for $25.. Poor guy had the insurance company total his and is parting it out.

 

[Shonuff_92]

EEC changed....

I just received the EEC from 95SHOdude in TX(Thanks again).. Disconnected the negative on the battery, changed out the EEC and plugged everything back together. Crossed my fingers, tried to start it... Got a little hiccup where it sounded like it fired real quick and then more of the same... Nothing.. Just turning over... Then I checked to see codes.. - 111 - Nothing.. DUH! Hasn't run or nothing.. So now I suppose I need to get the multimeter and test things again.


This has been one horrible stretch of a month.

 

[Dustin89]

My car acted the same way as far as starting for one or two fires then nothing. It was the CPS. When I replaced that along with the lower 60K the car now runs and starts 10 times better.

I had no codes from computer and my tach was jumping up to 300-400 but car would not start! Only hiccup once and a great while.

I would guess CPS.

Mine was covered in oil from the front main and antifreeze from pump. Wonder why it would not work??

Dustin

 

[Shonuff_92]

Well, it looks like I will have a partly used DIS to try and if this part doesn't solve my problem, I will break down and change out the crankshaft position sensor. Plus I will need to look into the other parts of the lower 60K to see what I can feasibly do. Maybe I can get one of the local guys in the CSHOC to stop by and give me a hand or something.

 

[Shonuff_92]

Well I received the DIS and put it on... While tightening the bolts in place... I guess I don't know my own strength... I snapped off one of the bolts.. So now I am guessing that I need to pull the crossover off and get that drilled out and stuff...

 

[Shonuff_92]

one step closer....

Well.. Lucky for me, I didn't need to go buy tools to try and fix the crossover tube.. I pulled the DIS off and the broken bolt was sticking out far enough to turn out with some pliers.. Of course, the bad news is that trying the new DIS didn't exactly work.. unless I am missing something.. Tightened the new DIS down and it still just turns over... So now my dilemma is that I should change out the crankshaft position sensor... Quick question out to the forum... Anyone in the Denver/Boulder/Longmont CO region who may have done this before interested in helping out.. Of course, it would have to wait until next weekend for me to get the part...