MTX syncho question

[SinisterSHO]

Latley I've noticed my transmission has been getting a little harder to get into gears. Not so much when I'm driving, but today when I was leaving work, I tried two or three times to get it into first, and it didn't want to engage first gear a couple of times on the drive. No problems with second, fifth or reverse. But third and fourth a couple of times didn't engage while I was driving. Tried giving it some revs, but didn't really make a difference that I could notice, and I will try some different stuff on my drive to job #2.

As far as I know, I'm not leaking a major amount of fluid. I have always suspected that my axle seal was bad, but I dont think its bad enough to cause me to lose a substantial amount of fluid. The fluid has been in the car for ~15k, possibly more. I changed it when I had Beth put in a drain plug [obviously] a couple of months after I got the car a year and half ago.

I do not think this is clutch related. Clutch feels the same, and I have not been doing much hard driving due to cold weather and snow tires. So, I dont think I could have damaged the clutch in anyway. Current clutch is a high revs jr/clutchmasters stage 1 with probably close to 30-35k on it.

Would low fluid cause a problem like this? Or is it just time for a refresh with some better synchros? I need a reason to put in a my Fidanza, but dont know if I can take my car down long enough to get it refreshed by someone who knows what they're doing.

 

[TYSHO]

Would low fluid cause a problem like this? Or is it just time for a refresh with some better synchros?

Yes, bad fluid or low fluid. If I was you, I would drain the fluid and fill it with fresh fluid. And you never know, it can still be a clutch issue. As for your synchros, no, that is not the problem and you do not need to replace them unless you feel like buying some for a pretty penny. If anything, it would be your blocking rings if the fluid and clutch are out of the question. Synchros go bad when you grind the gears, and it also eats at the teeth on the actual gear where it engages.

 

[SHO#7]

I fought the same type of issues with mine. I swore it had to be related to the transmission. Turned out to be a pressure plate problem. 14k on a factory clutch kit. Installed by Ford before I bought the car.

Not to mention it cost the poor guy over two thousand for a clutch and flywheel. Yep, sold him a new flywheel.

Mike

 

[smokin joe]

I would try the trans fluid but prob PP I think its time for the Fidanza and look everything over when its apart But its not hard to change the MTX fluid since you have a drain plug!

 

[sdpatt]

I do think it is clutch related.

With the engine running, gearshift in neutral, foot off the clutch, press the clutch all the way to the floor, count to 5 (as in seconds) and try to move the shifter in to reverse gear. Yes, the unsynchronized one. If it goes in with little or no crunching then the clutch is releasing well. If not, well you found your problem. Have you tried adjusting the clutch cable (pull pedal up with 10 pounds of force) lately? The service manual said to do this every 6,000 miles IIRC.

 

[SinisterSHO]

That means you've done it 51 times, correct?

I have not tried adjusting it, and I had actually thought about it, but forgot.
I dont really want to do a clutch, but I suppose it could be done in a weekend. And like I mentioned, would give me the reason to install my Fidanza, and as I started thinking about it, I could upgrade my brakes and put on my intrax springs at the same time.

I will try the reverse thing in the morning. If it is indeed my pressure plate. I should probably replace it sooner than later, no?

 

[SonicRiot]

PP, clutch and TOB should all be replaced at the same time. A flywheel resurfacing is also highly recommended. Do it once, do it right.

Another troubleshooting path may be a bad motor mount or worn bushings. When I broke my front motor mount, I was having a buttload of trouble shifting into certain gears at certain RPMS. The sagging of the engine sometimes made first gear tough to get into at idle.

If the bushings are worn or the linkage is bent, then the reason is obvious... the gear selectors wont engage properly and you will be pushing against the gates.

If it was a clutch or bad fluid, USUALLY you'd be experiencing issues with every gear, not just some.



P.S. If you were experiencing syncro issues, there'd be a whole lot of grinding going on... the kind that makes you cringe. Blocking rings may cause tough shifting, however. When the car is in gear, put pressure away from neutral position on the stick. A loud grinding, groaning, or excessive vibration may also be an indicator of bad blocking rings.

 

[SinisterSHO]

SHONut reinforced motor mounts were installed about 9 months ago. My linkage is a little sloppier than I would like, but I have never noticed any problems with it before.

 

[SonicRiot]

Just becuase it's a recent issue, don't rule out sloppy bushings. Jack the car up and try to put the car into first at the transaxle. Then try to put it in first with the stick. Check the linkage at the pivot points for excess play.

 

[yamapowered]

I have had the same issue, trans wont go in easy when cold, works fine warm, fluid change solved the problem both times it happened, still driving the car now 120k
Javier

 

[SinisterSHO]

I did the reverse test that Scott mentioned, and I got very little crunching, not enough for me to consider it a problem. I also tried adjusting the clutch, but I did not hear a click or anything. If I get ambitious before I have to go back to work, I might jack the car up and check out the rod shifter linkage. I do have a Jose SHOrt shifter installed, and it has always had a little bit of play, but I believe that its the socket in the shifter box.

I just read the edit about the blocking rings. I've always noticed a little big of extra vibration in third if I applied a little bit of pressure. No grinding or anything, just a little bit of extra vibration.

I dont know how long the quaife has been in the car, but I would guess that is the last time the transmission has been apart. I dont know how many miles Chris put on the car, but I've put about 23k on it since I've owned it. Like I said, the fluid was changed only about four months after I had the car.

*Edit* Got ambitious. Jacked up the car, and the 10 mm bolt that holds the linkage onto the trans was a little loose. I tightened it a good bit, and the slop went away. However, it was still a little difficult to engage gears at times. No gear did it everytime, I'll pay more attention on the drive to work.

 

[jedhead]

I think you still have some clutch related problems. Many times problems happen when the quill the throw out bearing rides on gets gummed up with clutch crud and won't move far enough to disengage the pressure plate from the clutch. One symtom I had was if I was at a stop light in gear with clutch depressed, I could feel a very slight shatter in the driveline.

Bob

 

[SinisterSHO]

Some gears are still being stiff to engage. No consistancy at all. Possibly chaning trans fluid tomorrow. Will update.

 

[shojuan]

What did you **** your release fork shaft bushings with? While you're at it you may as well tell me all the things you lubricated in the clutch housing and any different lubes you might have used.

Also, what parts in there are new (as of your last clutch job) and what parts are used.

 

[SinisterSHO]

I dont know any of that information. I have never had the transmission apart, and the only thing that I have had done to it would be the drain plug.

 

[SinisterSHO]

Well, changed the fluid. Drove the car to the 'zone to get rid of the old fluid, and around the block. Some fo the gears felt a little smoother, but still feels like its engaged, when its halfway in the gate. Guess I need a clutch, eh?

 

[TYSHO]

When you change the fluid, it takes a while for the new fluid to be fully effective. If it doesn't clear up within 100 miles, I would be looking into a clutch.