sho_bc
Dragonboater
Does anybody know the part number for the multi-function switch? Preferably a NAPA part# so that I can order it up here? I tried searching, but didn't come up with the actual number.
MFS part #?
- Thread starter sho_bc
- Start date
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yzstud
< my kawi
what do u need?
do u want the turn signal lever or where the lever hooks into?
here is both: the napa # is ECHDL6304
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...er=DL6304&Description=Headlight+Dimmer+Switch
do u want the turn signal lever or where the lever hooks into?
here is both: the napa # is ECHDL6304
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...er=DL6304&Description=Headlight+Dimmer+Switch
Last edited:
sho_bc
Dragonboater
well, my turn signals are working only intermitantly, and from what i gathered from searches, that would be caused by a faulty MFS stalk.
yzstud
< my kawi
it wouldn't be the turn signal lever, it is the internal switch
and that is the one u are looking for
and that is the one u are looking for
sho_bc
Dragonboater
Alright, thanks for the info. I've got the day off tomorrow, I'll take a look into it more then.
I took mine apart and cleaned it myself, and haven't had a problem since then. Thats been about a year or so ago to. The contacts just get a little corroded inside, I took mine off, and used some rubbing alcohol and fine sandpaper to clean the contacts,works great.
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
My wipers only work on low and high, and sometime not even those
, not good when raining. Has anyone had luck cleaning and fixing this problem?
, not good when raining. Has anyone had luck cleaning and fixing this problem?
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
The lever and the switch are not available separately, it comes as a complete unit.
We clean them pretty often with generally good results. But, if you decide to get a new MFS, check with Ford as their price may actually be lower than NAPA. $139 is alot for an MFS. RockAuto is under $100, but I'm sure with shipping to BC, duties, etc. you'd be close to the NAPA price. Looks like '89s use a unique switch too -- if you had a '90+ you'd be in about the $35 range...
We clean them pretty often with generally good results. But, if you decide to get a new MFS, check with Ford as their price may actually be lower than NAPA. $139 is alot for an MFS. RockAuto is under $100, but I'm sure with shipping to BC, duties, etc. you'd be close to the NAPA price. Looks like '89s use a unique switch too -- if you had a '90+ you'd be in about the $35 range...
Storm-Chaser
New Member
If you're going to clean the connectors, use electrical contact cleaner and an eraser instead of sandpaper.
Copper - as well as many alloys - naturally corrode over time. Corrosion results from exposure to water, high temperatures, fluids, oxygen, etc. Corrosion reduces the circuit's ability to transfer electricity between connectors and contacts. And in this case can cause most of the intermittent problems that are posted on the forum about the multifunction switch.
The goal is to remove the corrosion without damaging the connector's surface. This is best done with electrical contact cleaner and an eraser, which will remove any build-up on the connectors, without damaging the connector's surface. Sandpaper is going to leave thousands of small grooves in the connector's surface, which reduces the amount of contact-area and creates thousands of small air-gaps which accelerates the return of the corrosion.
Also don't forget to clean the contacts on the other half of the connector. A good quality electrical contact cleaner and q-tip can be used on those contacts you cannot reach with an eraser.
Copper - as well as many alloys - naturally corrode over time. Corrosion results from exposure to water, high temperatures, fluids, oxygen, etc. Corrosion reduces the circuit's ability to transfer electricity between connectors and contacts. And in this case can cause most of the intermittent problems that are posted on the forum about the multifunction switch.
The goal is to remove the corrosion without damaging the connector's surface. This is best done with electrical contact cleaner and an eraser, which will remove any build-up on the connectors, without damaging the connector's surface. Sandpaper is going to leave thousands of small grooves in the connector's surface, which reduces the amount of contact-area and creates thousands of small air-gaps which accelerates the return of the corrosion.
Also don't forget to clean the contacts on the other half of the connector. A good quality electrical contact cleaner and q-tip can be used on those contacts you cannot reach with an eraser.
Last edited:
firstgen89sho
former Slo_SHO
also, an 89 MFS is different than an 90-95 MFS
last time I priced one out at my cost at the dealership that I work at, the 89 MFS was $140, and the 90-95 MFS was $85
When I had my 89, I preformed some surgery on the steering column and wired in an 90 switch and intermittant module from the 90
last time I priced one out at my cost at the dealership that I work at, the 89 MFS was $140, and the 90-95 MFS was $85
When I had my 89, I preformed some surgery on the steering column and wired in an 90 switch and intermittant module from the 90
sho_bc
Dragonboater
Ok, so I cleaned the contacts (weren't that dirty?) and put everything back together again. PRESTO! It worked again!
It was working great, until I was on the phone, talking about how they were working fine now. And then I went to make a left turn, and they didn't work....
I'm guessing I'm going to have to replace the thing?
It was working great, until I was on the phone, talking about how they were working fine now. And then I went to make a left turn, and they didn't work....
I'm guessing I'm going to have to replace the thing?
yzstud
< my kawi
yep 
sho_bc
Dragonboater
Ok, so the new part came today, and in it went. Worked great for a few minutes after install, and for about 5 minutes of driving. and now, its not working. again. its doing the same thing as before. (ie. nothing) 
any ideas?
*edit* also, would napa take that part back, seeing as how its barely used, didn't fix it, and cost $200 after taxes?
any ideas?
*edit* also, would napa take that part back, seeing as how its barely used, didn't fix it, and cost $200 after taxes?
Last edited:
Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Check for a loose fuse.
Shouldn't be a problem returning to NAPA, just tell them it's defective and you sourced another elsewhere.
Shouldn't be a problem returning to NAPA, just tell them it's defective and you sourced another elsewhere.
sho_bc
Dragonboater
the fuse is fine, and the other electronics associated with it work normally. the hazards also work. this is frustrating.... but i'm sure it'll be some simple solution...
doclees
New Member
Is it both Lt and Rt?
sho_bc
Dragonboater
yep, both sides. everything else is working normally.
sho_bc
Dragonboater
Anyone have any ideas? I leave for good in 1 week and would like to have the car working/street legal for my parents after I've left. I'm open to anything, at the moment.
sho_bc
Dragonboater
VICTORY IS MINE!! :woohoo:
stupid flasher relay was dead.
stupid flasher relay was dead.
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
:shakehead
Fundamentals.
j/k
Fundamentals.
j/k
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