Major engine problem

[BeautifulDisasterSho]

Ok here's the deal.
I was out driving my Sho yesterday and were talking driving hard.. because well, I do. I settled down and started driving not so hard for a while, I was in 5th gear, then all the sudden I felt the car **** and slow down for a split second. I thought it was weird and just kept going but noticed that after that I had lost quite a bit of power. I pulled over in the parking lot right by and as soon as I let it idle (1000 rpm) saw the dreadful red "oil" light blink faintly quick and then didn't come back on. Just before I popped the hood there it started tapping lightly and got louder seconds later, then started screaching.. then stopped making any noises. I got back in my car and figured if it still runs, I already broke something major, I'm 10 minutes from home, I drove it home and it pretty much tapped/screached off and on the way home with the power loss. So I know I ruined something bad I just don't know what. The tapping and screaching noise is at engine speed you can tell, so it's not the top half of the motor I don't think, it's loud over the middle so it's too hard to tell what cylinder. The worst part about it is, I just changed the oil a month or two ago so I don't understand why it blinked the oil light and didn't come on while I was driving. What happened.. What do you guys think are the possibilities with these symtoms? What should I do with it?

P.S. I always thought the tranny would go first.

Thanks,
Doug

 

[SHOtimer]

Drop the oil pan and start pulling rod bearings. You might be able to just replace them and be fine. But, sounds like you might be too late. Good luck..

Doug

 

[Ferendon]

Rod bearings is my guess. If you threw a rod it's too late... Let's hope not, as SHO motors are not something you can just buy out of a Summit mag.

 

[BeautifulDisasterSho]

From what I know after I ran it again and listened closely (which probably wasn't good..) I guess it does sound like it's coming from the rear bank. I'm not counting out the rod bearings, it very well could be that. You can hear the tapping from the bottom as well also, it just seemed like it got louder toward the rear of the motor listening from the top half. I just got the valve covers off and everything looks nice, no scratches in cams, valve shims look good and are in place. This is the first time I've even seen them. So far it's not the top half, and it doesn't burn oil so I don't think its a broken ring. Now, I'm gonna have to drain the oil and pull the pan after if I can get the bolts on the y-pipe to come off. I haven't done rod bearings yet, but I remember reading they aren't too hard to do.
Anything else I need to do?

 

[Bizzy]

First thing....if you value the car, don't drive the car anymore until you find the problem. You probably already know that but it's better stated anyway just in case. Believe it or not some folks just don't understand that concept.

Several days before you plan on working on the car liberally soak the manifold studs with PB Blaster or similar. PB Blaster rules though so I highly suggest you get some of that. Have a torch on hand as well in case you need to heat them.

Other than that, just make sure you have all the parts needed to do the job. Even if they look ok you may as well change them since you're in there.

If you did throw a rod bearing, inspect the crank for scoring. If it's not scored you may be ok.

Best of luck to you!

 

[BeautifulDisasterSho]

Thanks for the luck, I'll need it. What parts will I need to complete the full bearing replacement and where do I get the bearings at?

 

[Bizzy]

You can get them from most any Auto parts store. I have gotten mine in the past from Napaonline, however if you get them locally you'll pay no incoming freight which absolutely makes sense to me. They're about 7.50 a box and you'll need 6 boxes.

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...r=15588390&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=70070388

 

[DHMag]

CB1435P x 6 (rod bearings), OS30636R (oil pan gasket), Permatex Black silicone (oil pan set comes with 2 small tubes, i save them for smaller jobs and use a big tube), black fiber gasket material and scissors/razor blade (to manufacture an oil pump pickup tube gasket). depending on where you shop, the average cost is $65-75.

though i dont think its a rod bearing. before you open up the bottom end, run a compression test, leak down, and check your coolant mix/level, and oil. let the car set overnite then remove the dipstick. if there is white residue on the tip, thats antifreeze.

can you pipoint the noise any more than just the rear bank ? i know, hard to do when you dont want to run the engine in its current state.

 

[BeautifulDisasterSho]

It's too loud to pinpoint by just ear. I used a funnel and tube to listen and it is more in the rear bank than anything. I still have the top half apart so I can't run it right now, also drained the oil already no sign of coolant.
I'll put the top half back together and do a compression test tomorrow after work to see if that shows anything. The oil was low yesterday so I added a quart but still didn't help much if at all, which might have caused the problem.

 

[DHMag]

if you have the intake removed, you can still do the compression tests..you just have easier reach to the plug wells. remove all plugs, disconnect DIS and/or coil pack, attach gauge to cylinder one, crank 3-5 revolutions, note pressure, move to next cylinder. if a cylinder comes up short or wont hold pressure, using a squirt can, squirt some oil into the questionable cylinder and retry the compression test.

 

[BeautifulDisasterSho]

Ok did the compression test and here's what I got.

First time around-
1-155 2-180 3-208
4-170 5-190 6-198

Second time-
1-130 2-179 3-202
4-195 5-180 6-186

The #1 cylinder was questionable so I squirted a little oil in there. It was 150 psi afterwards. Even though that one cylinder is kinda low it is still good, right?

 

[DHMag]

yeah, its good...low...but good. when i ran my compression tests, i averaged 195 per cylinder. id rule out rings and valve seats, drop the pan.

Ok did the compression test and here's what I got.

First time around-
1-155 2-180 3-208
4-170 5-190 6-198

Second time-
1-130 2-179 3-202
4-195 5-180 6-186

The #1 cylinder was questionable so I squirted a little oil in there. It was 150 psi afterwards. Even though that one cylinder is kinda low it is still good, right?

 

[BeautifulDisasterSho]

Ok. As soon as I get the studs on the exhaust soaked enough I will try and break them loose and drop the pan. Thanks for the help so far.

I can't afford to be putting much money into this car so if I get lucky and it turns out to be the rod bearings I can replace them along with gaskets no problem. Grinding the crank is out of the question in my situation, too many bills. I'm learning a lot from this motor and hope this wont be the last lesson.

I also have a couple more questions reguarding the rod bearings. How can I tell for sure if the crank has been worn too much? You said to look for any type of scoring.. do I have to measure anything if it's not or can I just replace them with the new ones?

 

[wood_e]

I've got all the gaskets needed for a rod bearing change and I also have the rod bearings needed. PM me if you need them or want some help

 

[BeautifulDisasterSho]

Ok, I'll let you know if I end up needing them.