platoribs
Live to Drive
Anybody seen or done this? what do they do? Oval out along the radius 0.25"
wonder how badly it effects the structural integrity?
wonder how badly it effects the structural integrity?
machining a 5x4.5 pattern to a 5x4.25 patter...
- Thread starter platoribs
- Start date
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Well, it would be 1/8" on the radius.....
If the centering ring is the proper snugness, one could do this. You would need to use the flat type nuts - like the 97+ F150 / Expedition uses on their wheels. They are hubcentric, like the SHO, and have lug holes that are kinda large, and the nuts just clamp the wheels against the hub and the center keeps everything concentric.
If the centering ring is the proper snugness, one could do this. You would need to use the flat type nuts - like the 97+ F150 / Expedition uses on their wheels. They are hubcentric, like the SHO, and have lug holes that are kinda large, and the nuts just clamp the wheels against the hub and the center keeps everything concentric.
93markVIII
SHO Member
are you wanting 5x4.5 for wheel selection? tbird/cougar/mark viii's have a similar issue. we have the same 5x4.25 bolt pattern. but we can convert as we have a bigger parts bin to rummage in.
seen oval holes on wheels. guy ran like a 13.3 1/4 mile, so that does work.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=73786
but if it were up to me, i would have the front hubs redrilled. simple machining process. i had a set of hubs for my mark viii (rear mark hubs look just like taurus front hubs, but different offset) redrilled by a friend of mine for $50. works great.
and then run an adapter in the rear. seems many people want spacers in the rear of their cars anyway.
seen oval holes on wheels. guy ran like a 13.3 1/4 mile, so that does work.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=73786
but if it were up to me, i would have the front hubs redrilled. simple machining process. i had a set of hubs for my mark viii (rear mark hubs look just like taurus front hubs, but different offset) redrilled by a friend of mine for $50. works great.
and then run an adapter in the rear. seems many people want spacers in the rear of their cars anyway.
platoribs
Live to Drive
D'oh! Completely forgot about this thread. Thanks for the advice guys...
Not sure if I need to do this considering how many sets of 5x108 wheels I have. But only one set of 17's, price of 16" tires makes me :sun:
Not sure if I need to do this considering how many sets of 5x108 wheels I have. But only one set of 17's, price of 16" tires makes me :sun:
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vortex2450
Buying Parts...
While you could drill new holes for studs I would not trust the integrity of it.
One option is to source 5x4.5 hubs and bearings to to match the OEM ID of the knuckle (if using gen 1/2 knuckle) and OD of the hub sleeve.
With a gen 3 knuckle (assuming gen 3 sub frame upgrade), you would have to figure out a way to get the bearing to use the bolt on assembly.
Bolt on options?
Motorsport offers custom wheel adapters and spacers.
These would bolt onto your 5x4.25 hub with flat lug then have the 5x4.5 pattern. They are hub-centric to the hub and provide a notch to make a wheel ride concentric to the adapter. You can also change the wheel bore to make wheel bore fitment easier (ie use the mustang hub size) . The downside is the smallest adapter is 19 mm, which means you'll have to play with offset. But you could use this as a chance to make the front and rear tracks the same by ordering thicker adapters for the rear.
Costly though. $240 is what I came up with.
Wheel Adapter Configuration - Complete!
*********************
1995 FORD TAURUS
Your Bolt Pattern: 5x108mm
Your Hub Diameter: 63.4mm
*********************
Type: One Piece Adapter
Hub Centric to Car & Wheel Centric to Wheel
Thickness: 19mm
Stud Size: 12x1.5
Center Bore: 63.4mm
Diameter: 5 by 114.3 (4.5 inches)
Quantity: 4
*********************
The price for the above configuration (before tax and shipping) is $240.00. Tax and shipping will be included in your total on the Payment Configuration page.
That's about it are far as viable options go.
-Josh
platoribs
Live to Drive
Actually I'm looking into having the 13" mustang rotor (RA $60/per) modified to fit on a 5x108 pattern for Cobra calipers... on a Thunderbird SC, or an SHO...:sun:
got your avatar on my rear glass, thanks.
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SHOspazz92
Banned
My wheels (SSR Competitions) were re-drilled from 5x114.3 to 5x108 and then finished off with inserts. Structural rigidity? Well... These wheels have been on 2 supercharged SHO's. The wheels only weigh 14.5 lbs a piece and have no signs of cracks, bends or anything of the sort. I trust it. You can't even tell that it was done. This is actually a common practice and pretty inexpensive to get done.
Google "Redrill/insert"
-Sam
Google "Redrill/insert"
-Sam
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SinisterSHO
Rust free
Do you have any pics of that Sam? My SSRs were custom ordered as 5x108
SHOspazz92
Banned
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Key is to find a place experienced in this that also knows to press in steel lug seats (which will occupy the "space" left over if you simply whittled away the aluminum to make it "fit".
rbruso
unlikely
Dremel to elongate the bolt holes in the rotors and call it done. I had a really aggressive grinding cylinder in a kit I bought a while back that just barely fit in the unmodified hole and did a superb job.
Also, cheap rotors rust. Quickly. Even in Arizona, I had flash rust show up within days. I ended up running the 13" brakes for a few weeks to see where the pad wear ended, then pulled them for painting. A little steel wool to knock off the flash rust, alcohol to get rid of my fingerprints, masking up to the edge of the pad area and some high temp black.
You can see a spot on the outside bevel where the masking went overboard. I'll touch that up next time the wheels are off. I also did the caliper brackets, as they were bright red when I received them.
SHOspazz92
Banned
This is exactly right. The inserts are supposed to only be good from 3-8mm. There are only a few reputable shops that I know of who will do this, one of them being in california. These were done by a specialty (Volk/SSR/HRE/BBS...etc) shop in Utah that is no longer with us. I've looked them over exstensivly and they are holding up well, I have no concerns about it at this point.
-Sam
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There is a place in Manchester, CT as well, they have redrilled a couple sets of wheels for me - they do all the wheel redrilling for shops in the northeast. Thanks for the 3-8 mm useful range, makes sense.
Question I have is whether those inserts would work on redrilling a 4 lug to a 5 lug pattern, situation where you always end up with a siamesed hole. Somewhere I have this laid out in CAD need to see if the overlap at the large end of the lug hole taper would be 8 mm or less.
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93markVIII
SHO Member
the rear mustang hubs, and front taurus hubs (gen 1 and 2) use the same wheel bearing. a timken set49.
silverknight
i race taurus?
there are some aftermarket replacement hubs that are same thickness around the entire stud surface. Would be easier to redrill to new bolt pattern in the empty middle space.
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
last I checked the splines don't match. 26 vs 28 or whatever.
I have no idea what the spline counts are on the axle shaft to CV
Perry
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
front or rear?
all the rear hubs I've seen, or at least the pictures on the web sites, have the thin OEM style hub ******.
if you know of some rears that are thick, you've definitely got my attention.
Perry
I'll say ahead of time I know little to nothing about this, but don't they make wheel studs that are thicker where they're pressed into the hub? I don't know if that'd be any safer than trying to fill the hole with something or not though. I am curious though.
frosho
WOLFMAN
It's not the studs that are a problem, it's the design of the hubs. They are thin between the lug holes, so there is not enough material on the hub to press a new stud in.
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