left front clunking, can't find the source!!

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Mike Stitzer

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My 95 MTX has developed a clunking noise at the left front wheel area. THis happens when I go over bumps and I can hear it, but I can more so feel it in the floor board. I just had Koni/Eibachs installed about 3 weeks ago. I took the car back to have them look at it. They looked all over it and even check the endlinks and tierod ends for play. I watched them do this. THey then put it up on the aligment rack and checked the trans mount and lower engine mounts to be sure it wasn't them. Everything is tight. THis is really confusing and anoying me.

THe clunk shows a lot while turning right and hitting high frequecy bumps, like turning up into my driveway at slow speed. Could it be a wheel bearing? the steering rack? how can I check. Could the Koni be junk? the strut bearing seems tight. IS there any other way I can test this. THE mechanic took a pry bar and checked for looseness of the strut mount but we couldn't find any. but when I'm driving it just feels like somethings loose up there. THe car has 100,500 miles on it and maybe 500 miles on the new struts and springs.

Mike
 

nc89sho

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I have the exact same problem and i just installed intrax springs. I'm still looking, let me know if you find out, and i'll do the same.
 

RI-SHO

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Is the spring seated correctly on the side? Might be a long shot but have you ever replaced your strut bearings? Even though in my SHO I get the clunking when turning from lock to lock.
 

beeej55

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i have the same noise coming from the front but on both sides. I 89% sure its the half axles.I heard many horror stories about how hard they are to find new. Not to mention inexpensive. I wents alfitz and got two halfaxles used from him and am in process of giving them to a guy to rebuild them. Getting back to the point, I would most likely check your half axles. I say that especially if you just replaced some suspension parts. Well good luck and I hope I was of some help.
 

DHMag

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to make sure the springs are seated properly, the end of the coil must be within 10mm of the spring cup seat. though i dont think this would cause your problem. if your wheel bearings were shot, they wouldnt clunk, just drone (hum) at different pitches (according to speed). bad wheel bearings would not cause your problem. it could be one of 2 things. either your CV joint is shot or your strut cup (top mount) is shot.
 

smcallis

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I have a similar problem. Everything feels tight but when I hit the right bump I get a clunk. I just replaced my OTE struts, springs, strut mounts, and strut bearings. The end links, LCA, and tension rod/subframe bushing has about 40k on em. I don't get it...
 

Mike Stitzer

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Would a worn steering rack do this? I do sometimes hear it while turning. It's really annoying. Sounds like a POS.

Mike
 

smcallis

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One thing I just thought of...My drivers side axle nut keeps backing off. I've replaced the nut with a non oem torque prevailing type but it still loosens. This is on a reman axle. Not sure why it's doing it. Anyway, it lets me know its loose (If I dont check it often enough) with a similar clunk. Although it sounds similar it is entirely different than my passenger side clunk (Which I referred to previously) because that axle nut doesnt back off. Torque on these is supposed to be about 250 ftlbs.
 

Mike Stitzer

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Hmm, I never thought to check the axle nut. Wouldn't that let the wheel move slightly in and out? Because if I grab the wheel while it's jacked up and try to move it, it's tight in every direction. I'll double check everything today. We even put it on the rack and stood under the car while someone bounced the front end and heard nothing. This only happens on the road, so maybe it's a moving part like an axle or something.

Mike
 

SHONUT91

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Have any of you heard of the "radius arm cups".Due a search on here and it will explain how to check them.You may also have the same problem I did after my koni and eibach install.The upper strut mounts were groning,Ford makes a spacer to put between the strut and upper mounting point part#F3DZ-18A027-A they are about 25 bucks.I installed these and used some lithium grease on my upper strut bearing and have had no problems with the groning sound any more.You will need to have an allignment job after performing this.
Hope this helps some or all of you. thumbs_u
 

smcallis

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Mike Stitzer:
Hmm, I never thought to check the axle nut. Wouldn't that let the wheel move slightly in and out? Because if I grab the wheel while it's jacked up and try to move it, it's tight in every direction. I'll double check everything today. We even put it on the rack and stood under the car while someone bounced the front end and heard nothing. This only happens on the road, so maybe it's a moving part like an axle or something.

Mike
What I find with mine is the nut isn't completely backed off, it just lost some of its preload (or applied torque). With the small forces you are able to apply by hand its doubtful you can get the wheel to move enough to feel a problem. To check the nut torque you dont even have to take the wheel off, just the hubcap. You'll need a 30mm deep socket.
 

rendyx

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This is what causes my clunking: the inner fender well. All you have to do is make sure it's pinned in there securely, if that's it.
 

gdsqdcr

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I had a clunking noise in my 94 MTX when traveling over bumps as well. Ended up being my bearing on the left front side. They ended up replacing the hub and bearing. 400 bucks!

Might want to check that out as a possibility.

Anthony
 

shojuan

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smcallis:
One thing I just thought of...My drivers side axle nut keeps backing off. I've replaced the nut with a non oem torque prevailing type but it still loosens. This is on a reman axle. Not sure why it's doing it. Anyway, it lets me know its loose (If I dont check it often enough) with a similar clunk. Although it sounds similar it is entirely different than my passenger side clunk (Which I referred to previously) because that axle nut doesnt back off. Torque on these is supposed to be about 250 ftlbs.
Replace your wheel bearing. The nut is backing off because the wheel bearing is bad. It will take a bit of time (several months) but eventually the outer CV joint's threaded stud will shear off if you don't replace that bearing. Pull the steering knuckle, pay autozone $40 for a new sealed bearing, and take it to a machine shop to have them press the old bearing out and a new one in ($20 or so unless the old one is torn up to where they need to weld some metal in the outer race to pull it out. You would know it if it's this shot though.)

Rick

<small>[ October 18, 2002, 07:54 PM: Message edited by: shojuan ]</small>
 

SHODWN

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check
Swaybar bushings first******
subframe bushings
strut mounts
strut bushings

Radius arms? we have none . we have strut rods and the bushings can go but unlikely seeing the front one is TPR.

On a gen 3 the clunk is 99% THE SWAYBARS
 

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