Just wondering ?

[Bronco2fan]

So I've been checking out this forum for a little while and have a question for those more informed then I. I've been looking at this 2013 SHO, PP, Metallic Red, with 149,000 on the odometer. The dealer is asking 13k for her. I like it a bunch and the color and package is great. But should I stay away from her just based on the mileage? She drove really well and didn't make any strange noises and no puddles after I ran her hard. If I go back for her what should I really look hard at, as I'm not well versed in the problems she may be hiding. Thanks all for your input.

 

[Lostneye]

Reliability is all about maintainance. Is there any service history?

 

[Majestic]

Way too many miles for me.

 

[rubydist]

That's not a bad number for that car in this part of the country (NADA says $16k is retail, and they typically sell a couple thousand under here).

Your risk is turbo failure. At those miles, depending on how diligently the oil was changed and what oil was used, there start to be turbo failures. So, I'd plan a 50% chance of a turbo failure in the next year, since you are unlikely to know anything about the service history of the vehicle. In fact, if it was me, I'd plan to replace the turbos, and factor that cost into my offer to the dealer.

 

[SilverSH0]

I would definitely get up under it and check the bottom side of the turbos for leaking oil. With that mileage I would imagine the turbos have been replaced once. If they haven't or there's no record of them being replaced, I would assume they are on their last leg.

When I had the dealer quote replacement of the rear turbo it was something like $300 for the turbo and $1400 for the labor. The front turbo was the same price and the labor was about 1/2 that of the rear. For both I would assume $2,500-$3,000 replacement cost.

 

[Bronco2fan]

The only service records I saw were oil and filter changes. That's from the ones they had on their website. The miles worried me too. I was thinking of offering 9k and see what happens, they can only say no or counter. It's been there for a while.

Sent from my Alcatel9007T using Tapatalk

 

[ridered74]

If you can afford to dump 5-7K in it at any given moment, go for it. If you can't, steer clear. I have a 2011 with just over 150K miles on it, I wouldn't feel very good if I still owed 13K on it. I think that price is a bit higher than I would be willing to pay. Take your time, I bet it will sit there for a while.

 

[OgreSmash]

way to many miles. 149k in 5 years? that's 30k a year. way above the average. mines a 2010 had almost 94k when I bought it. keep looking dude.

 

[StealBlueSho]

I wouldn't touch it, personally... too many miles... unless you are paying cash and can talk them down a few grand.

Turbos as previously mentioned.. lately there have been a few with higher mileage where the injectors have started to fail. PTU at that mileage is also a concern...

That's a lot of miles for a twin turbo V6 IMHO...

 

[OmaHahn]

Holy ****!!! 149k? Mine is a 2014 and only 30k! How does one put that many miles on it? As stated above that's 30k per year so I highly doubt they did "routine" maintenance because those intervals would come to quickly putting that many miles every month. Keep looking and good luck.

 

[Bronco2fan]

Thanks for all the info guys. I can't imagine how anyone could put that many miles and not do the routine maintenance just for sanity's sake and safety. The shame is it's not a bad looking ride. And I really don't want another black vehicle here in Texas lol. There's lots of black SHO,s here too. I might just offer half and see what happens.

Sent from my Alcatel9007T using Tapatalk

 

[hippieh8]

I wouldn't do it unless they made some kind of agreement on deals for repairs if one of those common high mile problems occur

 

[ridered74]

I saw a 2015 for sale a week or two ago around here with 94K miles for $17K. I was considering it, but it sold within a week. For me, I'll take a high mileage car all day long over one that has been started up just as many times but only driven a few miles comparatively in between, but the price point has to be right. Realistically that car is going to need at least a couple grand in repairs to make it past 200K miles, so is it worth 14-15K to drive a car 50-60K miles? I got my car with 100K miles on it but got it for 5K less than they were going for with less miles at the time. I've driven it 50K so far with only $20 in repair costs so far and one set of tires. The car fax was loaded with oil changes. I'll take that all day every day over a car that is only driven 5-10 miles a day, as long as the price is right. 150K tho, the price would need to be under 10K for me to touch it.

 

[rubydist]

ridered74 makes a very good point that agrees with my experience - I have had better experience with buying used cars that had a lot of miles than with buying used cars with low miles. The lack of use is often more of an issue than more use.

 

[SHOdded]

On the bandwagon with ridered and ruby. Just like anything, dont buy it if the purchase price already bounces against your financial limits. Even basic stuff like tires and alignment can run you a grand or more.

Former: 1995 ATX, 1992 MTX

 

[Bronco2fan]

So what I'm seeing here is about half for and half against lol. The costs for repairs aren't to important an issue for me, unless it's a major failure to the motor or such. I'm gonna see just how low they'll go to move it off the lot, been sitting for a while. I agree with the 10k or less price. I'm gonna offer 8k after I drive her again and if I still want her

Sent from my Alcatel9007T using Tapatalk

 

[SilverSH0]

ridered74 makes a very good point that agrees with my experience - I have had better experience with buying used cars that had a lot of miles than with buying used cars with low miles. The lack of use is often more of an issue than more use.

I had a whole response typed out that basically said the same thing (but I never posted). I think it has to do with how the car is treated. I barely drive my car 5k miles/year. When I drive it I really enjoy it and it gets driven hard for a large percentage of it's life. A car that has 30k miles/year is clearly mostly driven on the highway where it's most likely very easy miles. You can have way more wear on a 50k mile vehicle that's driven hard than a 150k mile vehicle that's simply cruised down the highway 99% of the time.

Even with that said, 150k miles for a turbo is a LOT of miles. If the OP cannot afford to get the turbos replaced if they go bad, he should steer clear. There's a good price for buying a 150k mile SHO with no maintenance records but IMO $13k isn't that price.

 

[Bronco2fan]

So I wasted 2 hours at the dealership trying to make a deal. The lowest they'd go is $12,830. That makes it $13,900 out the door. So does that sound like a fair deal or let it go? Said they'd take it to auction if they don't get their price. No warranty, but they'll split the difference for new tires all around since she has mismatched brands on her. All the recalls are completed, headliner coming down in the back, rims are scuffed, minor paint blemishes, everything else works as far as I can tell. Carfax looks decent on oil change intervals, lots of highway miles between Killeen and Dallas. Input appreciated, thanks.

 

[sperold]

You have turbos to worry about.
You have a water pump that runs off the timing chain instead of a pulley out front.
You have direct injection that has a "back of valve" issue that requires a walnut blast to remedy.
You have a transfer unit that likes to be serviced way more frequently than most people do, and the official "no service required" prevailing wisdom does not help.

You have to decide which 4 years you want to experience.
The first 4 where you have a warranty, and you get to sell it (or release, if that is the way you go), and you will not have racked up 150K.
The second 4 years where you pay 14K up front, plus lots of repairs, due mainly to the mileage.

The first choice could cost you 2X as much, if the second choice has no issues.
The reality is it will not cost you 2 x as much because you will experience expensive repairs in your second choice.

The second choice is great if you are extremely lucky and miss those issues that are dealer only solutions. This is not a car you can take to your corner garage for help.

You tried your best while dealing with unreasonable people.
I would let them ship it to the auction where it will not fare well.

 

[rubydist]

Here is my advice: Go to your local AAA broker or some other broker that is going to treat you right. Tell them to look for that exact car at the auction if/when it comes through. Tell them you will pay up to $X for it. Sign a contingency contract if you need to and give them a deposit if you need to. Then sit back and wait. There is a good chance the dealer will not get it sold for their number, and will dump it at the auction. Interestingly, the used car manager has a few different categories of where he can write off a loss on a vehicle, and many dealers have a pay plan that makes it more attractive for the used car manager to take a loss at the auction than on the lot.

Sperold is correct above: you have to be willing to drop $3k on that car at any instant if the turbos go out. Taking your chances is likely the way to go, because an extended warranty with those miles (if you can even get one) will be very expensive and have all kinds of exclusions from coverage.