Just ONE more question before I turn the wrenches

[Glenn W]

What started out as needing a water pump is now:water pump,timing belt,acc. belts,front crank seal,cam sensor and crank sensor.I am going all the way so I only have to do it once.Is this all I need to finish the job and hopefully not have to work on the front of the motor anymore?I will drill some small holes in the crank seal and install a screw to pull it out but can I just tap the new one in if I'm careful? what would you guys out there do? I dont have the special install tool as stated in the book.This forum has been a great asset to me for gathering the info needed to do this right the first time and I am greatful to all who have answered my posts.
Glenn

 

[Jr's Sho]

No idea, I have never done that yet. But yeah, that does sound like everything you can do at one time from the front of the car. Take your time replacing everything and don't forget to adjust the crankshaft sensor. Have fun.

 

[projectSHO89]

Yep, that's how the crank seal comes out and goes in. You might be able to carefully pry out the old seal with a screwdriver. I just drilled a small hole in it and put a screw in the hole, and pulled the seal out.

When installing the new seal, be sure to coat the inside of the seal with motor oil. Don't want it going in dry and rubbing on the crank. If you can't push the seal in with just your thumbs, a small piece of a 2 X 4 makes an adequate seal installer. Just be sure you get it in there square.

Remember how all the pieces come apart, so you can put it back together again.

Good luck.

Steve

 

[sdpatt]

I agree with replacing the crankshaft position sensor as this one can leave you stranded when it fails, but the CID (cam) sensor is very robust and may last the life of the car. You can also replace it without removing the belts, crank damper and timing belt covers like the other components on the list. Also, if your camshaft seals aren't leaking, I wouldn't bother replacing them. My engine is still on the original CID sensor and cam seals and they are doing fine even at my high mileage (266,000 miles).

As far as removing the crank seal, that is the procedure I use. I have usually only needed one hole and one screw to pull the seals. Just be careful not to punch the drill through too hard as you can damage the aluminum behind it. You can press the National (Federal Mogul) 710220 seal into position with your thumbs most of the way. I seat it flushly with the aluminum carrier with the rounded tip of a socket wrench handle. That gives you a nice tool to grip and push with a non-damaging round surface to touch the seal with.