ITT Wisconsinites help me get my car running right =P

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Force4

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Id take the plugs out 1 after another. After doing each plug and cleaning it id put it back in and start it and let the oil burn through. do it for each plug, see if it helps maby. Could be a bad valve gasket but i dont no y that would cause a rough idle.
 

plethaus

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Blah.. I have been totally devoid of all funding sources (AKA: broke...) so I haven't been able to do much. Not to mention the WONDERFUL weather we've been having here. What happened to the 50 and 60 degree weather? We went straight from 70's to 30's and 40's. :(

So far all I've managed to do is run a tank of fuel injector cleaner through it. I have a set of working O2 sensors I bought from NJSHO and I hope to install those this weekend.

I have noticed some weird electrical "gremlins" with the car though, but I have no idea if they are related to the actual check engine light being on..

-the wiper switch is kind of wonky. When I move the selector switch, it makes a really loud electrical "click" kind of like a short or something, and it doesn't always work right. Sometimes the wipers will wipe once, and then nothing.. I have to turn them off and back to the delay setting to get them to repeat. Also, I hear a loud click from the switch every time the wipers wipe. "CLICK CLICK....... CLICK CLICK".

-When I change the temperature on the EATC, the car acts like the EATC is eating a huge amount of power.. like the text/numbers on the EATC display will flicker, the dome light flickers, and even the door chime "wavers". If I have the radio on, the sound coming out of the speakers wavers too. It doesn't always do this though.

I have looked at all the grounds in the engine bay that I can see, and for the most part they look ok (visually). There is one ground that looks really corroded, it's the one up front, driver's side, near the radiator (actually it looks like two right next to each other). I need to try cleaning that one but I need to get some sand paper and a wire brush first.

:shrug:

I also really want to try a new IAC valve (the thing by the throttle body). I just don't have the money right now =( I know they can be cleaned, but I'd never feel fully confident that it wasn't the problem if I just cleaned it and the car ran the same.

Molly

PS: On my last tank of gas I got about 21mpg. 95% of that tank was driving to and from work, and on that same route my Z28 and Thunderbird 5.0 average 18mpg so it seems to be doing pretty good mileage-wise.
 
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black92

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I think you can take your alternator to Autozone, or Napa and they will test the alternator and tell you if its good or bad. Its a free service I believe.
 

plethaus

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Well, is there any reason here to actually believe it might be bad? The volt gauge installed in my car seems to be reading normal.
 

dantheman68

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i know ive had gremilin problems go away after changing an alternator, but some of that stuff doesnt sound like it would matter, like the wipers IIRC that switch in there can be cleaned and it usually fixes the problem, do a search.... its a cheap fix
 

dantheman68

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black92 said:
I think you can take your alternator to Autozone, or Napa and they will test the alternator and tell you if its good or bad. Its a free service I believe.

it is, but mine checked out ok, except it was tripping the light, and sometimes it would only put out like 10 volts... put a rebuilt one in and no problems since... except i think my starter is going... but thats my own damn fault
 

FREAK_SHO

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Could be your battery cable connections are corroded and causing problems as well. Not all corrosion shows, sometimes these cables corrode under the plastic sheathing away from the contact points. Just a thought...

Dave
 

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