It sure is HOT.

[whiteman_01]

I noticed the other day while driving my 92 that it was running VERY hot. The temp outside was about 85, and while in town with my fan running i was sitting at about 230 degrees.

Now, i have a 180 t-stat in my car with the stock rad. Whats the deal? Would a dual core rad take care of my prob? I guess i dont know what to do.

TIA for any advice.

 

[projectSHO89]

Assuming that your temp guage is accurate (verify with an IR thermometer on the water oulet tube), you're running at a very high temp, dangerously high....

Verify that you have proper airflow through the radiator. It may be clogged from insects, dirt, debris, etc. If you do have good airflow, I'd suggest pullong he radiator and backflushing it. Sounds like you may have insufficient flow.

Other possibilities include a weak pump, sticking thermostat, or a flow restriction somewhere else in the system. Check the lower radiator hose for collapsing or for internal failure.

Steve

 

[black92]

I would for sure check you t-stat, and possably a temp sending unit.
My sending unit was bad on my car, but I was reading low temps.

 

[platoribs]

Stuck thermostat FTW

 

[whiteman_01]

I actually just put the t-stat in about a month ago. I got it from bumper to bumper.

On that note is this statment true?

Taken From SHOBros.


If you track your car or live in a temperate climate, you're certainly aware of the hotter running temperatures the SHO is capable of reaching. We have found that cooler thermostats not made by Ford prohibit proper coolant flow, eliminating them as a possible option for additional cooling.

 

[hmthesing]

I'm having a similar issue as well. Yesterday going through some construction, my stock gauge almost hit the red H mark before we got moving again. I don't think my fan is turning on (or at least I can't hear it). Fuse is good for it.

I was thinking of replacing the thermostat as well. Should I get the Motorcraft one or would a Stant brand be okay?

Also, my oil light flickers on at low rpms when it gets hot, is that normal? Doesn't do it when at regular operating temps.

 

[JATRAMMELL]

I'm having a similar issue as well. Yesterday going through some construction, my stock gauge almost hit the red H mark before we got moving again. I don't think my fan is turning on (or at least I can't hear it). Fuse is good for it.

I was thinking of replacing the thermostat as well. Should I get the Motorcraft one or would a Stant brand be okay?

Also, my oil light flickers on at low rpms when it gets hot, is that normal? Doesn't do it when at regular operating temps.

If your fans are not working at low speed or while stopped, it can also lead to overheating and over pressurization of the AC system. My fans weren't coming on and my AC blew.

 

[whiteman_01]

I figired ou tthe only time my fan was working was when i put the scanner on it. I replaced the ircm, and the coolant temp sensor, but nothing still. The fan wouldnt even turn on with the AC.

I finally went out and bought a thermal switch and wired that in. Now the fan is on its own. The car will stay nice and cool now, fan will turn on about 200, and shut off at 190 or so. It might even be 185.

 

[hmthesing]

That's what I'm thinking I might do if the fan is good. Hardly ever need it except for the hot days.

 

[whiteman_01]

I am pretty impressed that it works as good as it does. It just has a probe that you attach to the back of the rad, and then just getting it set to turn on when you want it too. I got it for around 20 bux from checker if i remember right.

 

[SHOZ123]

I had a NAPA 170F t-stat and found that the bypass did not fully close on it. This would let hot fluid be recirculated instead of shutting the passage off and drawing in fluid from the lower hose only.

This picture is taken after the pump and t-stat were heated up to 170F in the oven.

This is a GEN 3 pump but the sealing of the bypass would be the same on any water pump.

 

[rigol2000]

I have a Raytek MiniTemp Thermometer. I want to check my engine temp since the gauge is on the "N" during city driving and "O" on the highway. It has been in the mid 90's here (That dang heat index keeps reaching the 110's). ProjectSHO89, you said to take the temp at the water outlet tube. That's right below the throttle, right? I read 213 there. On parts of the valve cover near the belts, I am reading 238!! What's up with that??

Thanks,
Chris

 

[SHOZ123]

That is all normal on a stock SHO with those ambient temps.

OEM fan settings are around what you post for coolant temp and the valve cover temp is near the same as the oil temp.

 

[K-Dawg]

Other possibilities include a weak pump,

How does a pump go bad?

 

[SHOZ123]

The impeller can erode away.

 

[URLACHER54]

my 94 when it gets to its normal highway temp runs betwwen the O and the R (NORMAL) and after freaking out all the time thinking of things that are wrong with it (changed the radiator, t-stat, water pump, heater hoses, both sensors, BG cooling system flush etc. which couldnt have hurt to change anyways) and come to find out by the FORD dealer it is running fine and not over heating that the SHOs are known to run that way and its pefectly NORMAL.

 

[rigol2000]

The temps I listed above are on my 95 MTX. I'm thinking I could have given more info about my setup. Today I was driving my 94 ATX in the same heat conditions. I used my IR thermometer and here is what I found:

95 MTX - 73mm MAF, Y-pipe w/ Dynomax exhaust, UDP
Gauge usually reads: O
Temp at water pipe: 213
Temp on valve cover: 238

94 ATX - Stock
Gauge usually reads: A
Temp at water pipe: 202
Temp on valve cover: 180 (I was surprised by that)

Obviously, the 94 cools more efficiently. The reason I believe is that the radiator was replaced last year. The 95 could probably use a radiator flush and t-stat. I bought it from Ford Performance Specialists last year and they said they just did the 60k. I assumed that included the t-stat but I could be wrong.

Chris