Is there a text for the ignition control module

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doobie

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My son's 94 3.0 recently started misfiring when under load. The idle is also somewhat erratic at times. Pulled the codes and got 212 and 219. Is there a test procedure to rule out a bad ignition control module?
 

rubydist

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212 = tach signal erratic
219 = spout circuit failure, timing defaulted to 10 degrees

212 usually is caused by a failing cam sensor. The good news is that they are not expensive and are fairly easy to change, so I would replace that first of all.

The other thing that we are seeing more and more on these cars as they age, are wiring faults in the wiring harness. There is a fair chance that the 219 code is due to an open circuit in the wiring harness. Those are much more difficult to find, and could be a bad connector terminal or an actual break in a wire somewhere in the harness.

fwiw, the ignition control module is not likely to be the problem based on my experience.
 

doobie

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212 = tach signal erratic
219 = spout circuit failure, timing defaulted to 10 degrees

212 usually is caused by a failing cam sensor. The good news is that they are not expensive and are fairly easy to change, so I would replace that first of all.

The other thing that we are seeing more and more on these cars as they age, are wiring faults in the wiring harness. There is a fair chance that the 219 code is due to an open circuit in the wiring harness. Those are much more difficult to find, and could be a bad connector terminal or an actual break in a wire somewhere in the harness.

fwiw, the ignition control module is not likely to be the problem based on my experience.
Thanks for your reply. The info I found for 212 is loss of ignition diagnostic monitor input to the pcm or spark output signal grounded. Do you believe this to be incorrect? I don't have a lot of experience with fords from this era so any help is appreciated. The car came with a replacement section of harness that contains the spout connector. If we can't track down the ground issue on the current harness I can check the spare one pretty easy while it's out of the car.
 
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zoomlater

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one way to check to see if the cam sensor is bad is to unplug the connector going to it. It will take a few tries to start the car as the engine is guessing when to spark, but once it's running you can see if the misfiring clears up
 

Eric B

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I had a starting problem with mine 15 years ago. I removed the ICM from the intake, cleaned the contacts and added new grease and reinstalled. No problem since. I think it was just getting a bad ground.
 

BaySHO Performance

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Thanks for your reply. The info I found for 212 is loss of ignition diagnostic monitor input to the pcm or spark output signal grounded. Do you believe this to be incorrect? I don't have a lot of experience with fords from this era so any help is appreciated. The car came with a replacement section of harness that contains the spout connector. If we can't track down the ground issue on the current harness I can check the spare one pretty easy while it's out of the car.
That is correct. the usual code for a bad camshaft sensor is 214: CID Circuit failure.
Have you seen the tach acting up? If so, that will indeed point to a bad camshaft sensor.
If not, and the car runs fine under gentle acceleration but bogs down under load (which has happened several times on my client cars), clean the MAF filaments. They are dirty and screwing up the A/F ratio.
 

doobie

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That is correct. the usual code for a bad camshaft sensor is 214: CID Circuit failure.
Have you seen the tach acting up? If so, that will indeed point to a bad camshaft sensor.
If not, and the car runs fine under gentle acceleration but bogs down under load (which has happened several times on my client cars), clean the MAF filaments. They are dirty and screwing up the A/F ratio.
That is correct. the usual code for a bad camshaft sensor is 214: CID Circuit failure.
Have you seen the tach acting up? If so, that will indeed point to a bad camshaft sensor.
If not, and the car runs fine under gentle acceleration but bogs down under load (which has happened several times on my client cars), clean the MAF filaments. They are dirty and screwing up the A/F ratio.
So after some digging around and not taking my son's word for it ....it seems as though the timing is at 10° . The only code stored is 212. So far I've checked to be sure signal from spout connector 1 is showing voltage all the way to the icm. I also checked resistance through the circuit and it came up pretty low. I could not wiggle the harness and get any ohm reading between the circuit and ground. Checking spout connector 2 I'm showing 10v. I had read that voltage through that circuit should be 5v. I'm going to check to see if the voltage is the same between the output and the signal return wire at the pcm plug. I'll attach the wiring diagrams I'm using as reference. If I'm seeing voltage return from spout 2 I'm leaning towards replacing the pcm or contacting Ford to see if they can still test such an old component. I'm not the greatest with electronics so any thoughts are appreciated
 

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