Is it the cps?

[stangconcepts]

Is it the cmp?

Well I just bought this car and nwe it had a problem,so I checked this site to see if it has been a common problem.From what I have read it seems to be the cam sensor.This is what I have had it do to me. First I test drove the car,paid for it, then it would'nt start.so I went back the next day and it started fine,drove fine,paid for it,then it took two tries to start it after sitting for three hours. It died while going around a corner and didnt want to start again.tried flooring it and after about five minutes it started but slowly. Drove it the next day a few times and it did fine.Then drove it an hour later and every time I started it it seamed a little slow starting, then died a mile down the road.Took about fiften minutes to get it started this time.well an hour before when I drove it I smelled gas and checked under the hood and the pressure relief valve was loose on the fuel rail.I tightend it and it stoped leeking.So when it died the last time I pressed the schrader valve in and had no pressure! I hear the fuel pump running when you turn on the key and when you crank it.It acts like the cmp was bad as described in some other posts but I dont get the lack of fuel pressure.any thoughts,ideas,comments or just made ramblings on the problem??????Oh and second the blower fan control for the heat. I only have high speed nothing else????

 

[autobahnsho]

Welcome to the forums. Sounds like you'll be spending a lot of time here.
Which is a good thing, because the people here are great, but not so good since it means you're still beating on a SHO...

The CPS is either: CID (Cylinder ID, CAMSHAFT sensor) or the CKP (CRANK position sensor). I would start using one of the those so it's not so confusing.

Does your tachometer go up to around 800 when you're trying to start the car and it won't? If the tach doesn't move one (or both) of those sensors is bad. Which is TOTALLY unrelated to the fuel issue.

You can go to www.shophoenixproject.com and see how to "read the codes"- the error signals that the car's computer generates. They will tell you which sensor (if any) is bad.

You'll need to also check on the fuel issue- do some tests, there's a way to see if the relay or pump is bad.

Again, check the codes! then go from there.
Good luck!

 

[projectSHO89]

FWIW, the cam sensor has NEVER been referred to as "CPS" in any Ford documentation. It is always designated as either CID (pre-1993) or CMP (1993 -on).

Crank sensor similarly is designated as either CPS or CKP (same dates).

You can eliminate the cam sensor by disconnecting it. You will have a 1-of-3 chance of the engine starting on any given attempt. Once started, you will have a CEL but no TACH. Useful for troubleshooting purposes or when you need to drive it for a few days until the cam sensor can be swapped.

Blower speed control (BSC) if you have an automatic climate control.

The fuel delivery problem might be as simple as a fuel filter.

Steve

 

[stangconcepts]

Ok,I have checked for the codes a few times and have come up with (KOEO) 116,111,225 (KOER)536,512 thats all. But I still have the problem with it not wanting to start after it has run awhile.I know what all the codes mean but none seem to coincide with the starting problem.

 

[diamondgram1]

I have had to replace a faulty cps before, in my experience the car idles fine but misfire when one trys to excellerate. the timing won't advance. I didn't even get a code at all. maybe you should run diag on the air cond or enviro controlls my daughter inlaw had a very similar prob it was the air cond. Be wary if you have to replace the cps though I gapped mine @.08mm like the man directed and the gap was to far to the top side so I split the gap over the hall effect vane until upon turning the motor over by hand i could no longer hear the vanes rubbing on the sensor. She runs great now . Good luck,
Mathew

 

[Blank-Disk]

it might also be wise to consider the DIS module (Distributorless Ignition System), located on the passenger side of the intake manifold. The car won't even start without it. So a malfunctioning one could be a problem. I'm having the same problem,a nd just today changed my CID, which DEFFIANTLY helped the timming, but I still get misfires, so I'm going for the DIS module next.

 

[stangconcepts]

Ok, well I have checked fuel,plugs,wires,spark,and codes about 20 times.if I start the car,I can start it 5-10 times then it will give me the no start problem.If I try to start it with out turning off the key it will not start.If I turn off the key it will start after 1-3 times.It did one weird thing when checking codes(koer) the idle was fluxuation about 800-1000 RPM's when I shut it off and started it again it didnt do it??? ???? the tach allways comes up to 500 RPM's even when it wont start. I am about ready to shoot the thing and I just got it :headbang: