Intermittent Stalling and Bucking

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Connor

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Hi, i have been having a issue with my 1990 sho, it has been intermittently bucking and stalling. It continues to buck until it stalls or until i shut the car off and turn it back on which most times i have to put it into clear flood mode "foot to floor" to get it to start again. It Also has a sporadic Tach at times. The car does have a digital dash conversion so i wonder if the tach issue has something to do with that? i pulled the codes and got a code 53 for TPS voltage, i replaced the TPS with a known good spare i had which didnt help.

Considering the symtoms, I suspect the cam sensor but would like other peoples input before i go throwing parts at it.

Thanks. :thumb:
 

luigisho

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cam or crank sensor. My guess is crank but you should have a code for it. You can do the unplug cam sensor and see if it runs once it catches thing
 

zoomlater

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the one time my car was bucking, it turned out to be the cam sensor. What luigisho posted up above is a quick way to check it. Check the bottom of the sensor, if there is oil, you probably need to change the cam seal as well since that would cause the cam sensor to fail
 

luigisho

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So long as you know that it may take many attempts to fire up as without cam sensor info it will assign random values to start firing order. If it eventually starts and does not buck then you should have your answer. I've had cutting/misfiring and stalling with a failing crank sensor. Good luck. Cam is easier to replace than crank sensor but, as mentioned above, you may need to stop excessive leaking at the camshaft seal inboard from the sensor.
 

Evan Silletto

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For the record, and because I have never come across this tidbit in all of the cam sensor threads -

I have found that 95% of the time, even when the car is acting super extra weird and ****** off and barely running, that the following helps.

Remove the cam sensor, sop up any oil inside of the sensor housing and also in the cavity on the engine to which the sensor attaches.
In order to clean the engine cavity it helps to wrap a rag around a dental pick or other such fine pointy thing and insert it between the outside edge of the cavity and the metal cup shaped cam sensor trigger mounted to the end of the camshaft. There is only about 1/4” or less of clearance here and it is hard to get with just a rag. Drag the rag all the way around the cavity a couple of times, making sure to shift your rag to a clean spot periodically. Wipe until a clean spot on the rag remains oil-free all the way around.
Blow out the sensor housing with compressed air, and then wipe it one more time for good measure. The last couple of times I have done this I cleaned the sensor with electronic parts cleaner (and even Maf cleaner once) as a final step. Let it dry and carefully reinstall it.

My car will typically run good as new for a while until the oil fouls it again. There is usually no need to replace the sensor.

. Since my oil leak at the cam seal seems to be quite slow, I have found that doing this cleaning every two months or so is acceptable so long as the pace does not accelerate. I keep the 5/32” socket needed for this in my glove box, since I daily my car everywhere.

It is not the easiest thing to do, but it gets easier every time. I will end up doing the cam seal sometime in the near future, but since the disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly take less than 30 minutes, and cost nothing, it isn’t so high on the list.

I imagine that the cam sensors do eventually fail, but I have a hunch that many of us have replaced a perfectly good sensor or two just because of oil contamination. To be clear - the oil fouls the sensor’s ability to accurately function, but I don’t think it actually does anything to the sensor itself. It’s really just a magnet, after all, right?
 
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