Interesting link which compares protective properties of various type oils

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SilverSH0

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I guess my only real issue is with everything they're saying about thinner oil being better. How it flows more and provides more lubrication. The question I would ask is if thinner is better then why isn't everyone running straight 0 weight oil? Then it can be 0 weight when cold and thin WAY out when it heats up. Then it would supposedly provide more flow, better lubrication, and take away more heat. I think everyone knows that wouldn't be good for the engine. So there must be a balance between oil weight because thinner isn't always better. You want the viscosity to be low enough that it gives the flow you want. But you also want the viscosity high enough that the oil actually sticks to the parts and provides lubrication. Too thin and it will flow but won't lubricate when parts are pressed together with force. Too thick and it might not flow into the small areas where needed.
 

markathome

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Hi all -
Thought I'd share my Blackstone Labs oil analysis....
Seems the Amsoil Signature 5w-20 is doing well in my car at 77k miles with a 9k mile interval!

BlackstoneLabs
 

Jeff2017

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I've been using Penzoil ultra for several years, 5-30w, guess I was doing something right.
I think I will use that the next time I change the oil. They have the new formulation with pureplus that is made from natural gas. It is a 100% synthetic base with additives and conditioners. $54 for five quarts at Walmart. Kind of pricey but so is a new engine.
 

Jeff2017

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Hmmm, that is the same pricing essentially as Amsoil ...
Is Amsoil better for the money? Or am I better off using a Mobil-1 5w30 which is cheaper and do more frequent oil changes? After reading about fuel dilution I am thinking that a long life motor oil may not really make sense for a DI engine due to oil dilution. Perhaps a 3000 mile interval with MotorCraft semi synthetic would be the best approach. I am @ 1000 miles on the engine right now so I have some to time to mull it over.
 

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