Can anyone provide the proper torque values for intake to head bolts, valve cover bolts, and let me know whre I can get a new throttle body gasket? I just cleaned my intake and heads and boy they were soiled!!!!. I probably took enough stuff out of the heads to fill a baby food jar. Time to put it back together and I dont want any major snags.
Intake re-install
- Thread starter aviator22
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
luigisho
SHO Member
There's an intake manifold gasket set from fel-pro MS94831 available at RockAuto and Autozone for $46. I think the tb gasket is included but not positive as I have not purchased this set before. I got the part # from one of Scott's sheets so I'm sure he might have seen all the components. Not sure if that part is available individually.
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
The throttle body gasket is not part of the intake manifold set.
Here are some applicable excerpts from my valve gapping procedure:
46. Install the valve cover bolts and washers (place the best looking bolts on the forward valve cover) and carefully torque them to 8-11 lb-ft (96-132 lb-in). DO NOT over torque the valve cover bolts. This can result in the either the bolts shearing or the aluminum threads in the head stripping. Neither is desirable.
51. Reinstall the intake manifold. It is helpful to loosen at least one hose clamp on each intake connector hose to more easily allow the manifold to fit over the six alignment pins on the intake ports. This should not be necessary if the manifold has not been disassembled or the hose clamps tightened.
52. With the driver side of the manifold held above the seating surface of the head, reattach the 3/16" coolant hose under the throttle body that is difficult to access when the intake is fully seated. Reinstall and torque the intake manifold bolts to 11-17 lb-ft (132-204 lb-in).
53. Reinstall the front intake manifold brackets and bolts and torque both front and rear bracket bolts to 11-17 lb-ft (132-204 lb-in). The wiring harness bracket is mounted to the rear, passenger side bracket bolt after the bracket. The intake ground strap is then installed on the same bolt. The wiring harness bracket and ground strap lug are both secured by the 15mm nut. Reinstall and tighten the alternator bracket bolt that was loosened to allow removal of the manifold bracket (3.2L).
54. Reattach all of the vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, electrical connectors, EGR sensor (3.2L) and EGR valve (3.2L) that were removed earlier. Double check each of the items identified in the steps that described the removal of the intake manifold.
9. Disconnect all vacuum and coolant hoses from the intake manifold and throttle body.
One 5/8" coolant hose and two 1/4" coolant hoses under the throttle body (the fourth 1/4" vacuum hose routes to the idle air control (IAC) valve and does not need to be removed, the hose clamp on one of the 1/4" coolant hoses is not easily accessible until the manifold is lifted a few inches)
Hoses:
One 1/4" vacuum hose and one 3/8" crankcase breather hose on the top forward face of the throttle body
One 3/16" vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator
One 5/8" vacuum hose on the passenger side rear of the intake plenum
One 3/16" vacuum hose to the secondary intake runner valve vacuum accumulator
One 1/8" plastic vacuum hose on the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve (3.2L)
One 1/8" plastic vacuum hose on the EGR pressure sensor module (3.2L)
Electrical Connectors:
Two to the distributorless ignition system (DIS) module on the intake crossover tube
One to the idle air control (IAC) valve
One to the throttle position sensor (TPS)
One to the mass air flow (MAF) sensor
One to the solenoid on the vacuum accumulator (black plastic canister)
One to the EGR pressure sensor module (3.2L)
55. Refill the radiator. If unable to add all of the drained coolant into the radiator, add the remainder into the coolant expansion bottle. It will be drawn into the system in a short time. Do not run the engine hard until the coolant temperature has stabilized, indicating the air has been purged.
56. Reinstall the battery and hold down bracket and reattach the positive (first) and negative battery cables (last).
57. Start the engine. If there was a significant amount of intake cleaner in the intake, the head ports or the cylinders, the engine may need to crank for a length of time as if it were flooded. In this case, the engine may at first not run on all six cylinders. Be prepared for this.
58. Set the idle speed programming. This is done by first letting the engine speed settle after 30 seconds. Then, within 70 seconds after the engine was started, apply all of the loads that the engine will experience at idle. These include the shifter to "D" (3.2L), climate control to MAX A/C, headlights ON, press the brake pedal and slowly turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn from side to side.
59. Check for coolant leaks under the throttle body as the engine warms up. Add coolant to the expansion bottle if the level falls below the COLD mark.
60. Enjoy the SHO.
<small>[ August 27, 2002, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
Here are some applicable excerpts from my valve gapping procedure:
46. Install the valve cover bolts and washers (place the best looking bolts on the forward valve cover) and carefully torque them to 8-11 lb-ft (96-132 lb-in). DO NOT over torque the valve cover bolts. This can result in the either the bolts shearing or the aluminum threads in the head stripping. Neither is desirable.
51. Reinstall the intake manifold. It is helpful to loosen at least one hose clamp on each intake connector hose to more easily allow the manifold to fit over the six alignment pins on the intake ports. This should not be necessary if the manifold has not been disassembled or the hose clamps tightened.
52. With the driver side of the manifold held above the seating surface of the head, reattach the 3/16" coolant hose under the throttle body that is difficult to access when the intake is fully seated. Reinstall and torque the intake manifold bolts to 11-17 lb-ft (132-204 lb-in).
53. Reinstall the front intake manifold brackets and bolts and torque both front and rear bracket bolts to 11-17 lb-ft (132-204 lb-in). The wiring harness bracket is mounted to the rear, passenger side bracket bolt after the bracket. The intake ground strap is then installed on the same bolt. The wiring harness bracket and ground strap lug are both secured by the 15mm nut. Reinstall and tighten the alternator bracket bolt that was loosened to allow removal of the manifold bracket (3.2L).
54. Reattach all of the vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, electrical connectors, EGR sensor (3.2L) and EGR valve (3.2L) that were removed earlier. Double check each of the items identified in the steps that described the removal of the intake manifold.
9. Disconnect all vacuum and coolant hoses from the intake manifold and throttle body.
One 5/8" coolant hose and two 1/4" coolant hoses under the throttle body (the fourth 1/4" vacuum hose routes to the idle air control (IAC) valve and does not need to be removed, the hose clamp on one of the 1/4" coolant hoses is not easily accessible until the manifold is lifted a few inches)
Hoses:
One 1/4" vacuum hose and one 3/8" crankcase breather hose on the top forward face of the throttle body
One 3/16" vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator
One 5/8" vacuum hose on the passenger side rear of the intake plenum
One 3/16" vacuum hose to the secondary intake runner valve vacuum accumulator
One 1/8" plastic vacuum hose on the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve (3.2L)
One 1/8" plastic vacuum hose on the EGR pressure sensor module (3.2L)
Electrical Connectors:
Two to the distributorless ignition system (DIS) module on the intake crossover tube
One to the idle air control (IAC) valve
One to the throttle position sensor (TPS)
One to the mass air flow (MAF) sensor
One to the solenoid on the vacuum accumulator (black plastic canister)
One to the EGR pressure sensor module (3.2L)
55. Refill the radiator. If unable to add all of the drained coolant into the radiator, add the remainder into the coolant expansion bottle. It will be drawn into the system in a short time. Do not run the engine hard until the coolant temperature has stabilized, indicating the air has been purged.
56. Reinstall the battery and hold down bracket and reattach the positive (first) and negative battery cables (last).
57. Start the engine. If there was a significant amount of intake cleaner in the intake, the head ports or the cylinders, the engine may need to crank for a length of time as if it were flooded. In this case, the engine may at first not run on all six cylinders. Be prepared for this.
58. Set the idle speed programming. This is done by first letting the engine speed settle after 30 seconds. Then, within 70 seconds after the engine was started, apply all of the loads that the engine will experience at idle. These include the shifter to "D" (3.2L), climate control to MAX A/C, headlights ON, press the brake pedal and slowly turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn from side to side.
59. Check for coolant leaks under the throttle body as the engine warms up. Add coolant to the expansion bottle if the level falls below the COLD mark.
60. Enjoy the SHO.
<small>[ August 27, 2002, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
All:
Thanks to all who replied. Excellent instructions Scott. I was wondering about a problem like the situation addressed in step #51. I thought it might be tough to re-align all the intake parts correctly, prior to install on the heads. I will leave some slack in the junctions until the intake is seated correctly on the heads. I hope to fire her (89 SHO) back up tonight. If she still is running bad, or not running, I will take you up on your previous offer to make a house call maybe next week after labor day weekend. I'm optomistic that the plugs and wires were the culprit, however, and will soon find out. You've all been a great help, and a great source of information. I will be making a book out of the shotimes and shoforum posts and articles to make a supplemental manual.
Thanks to all who replied. Excellent instructions Scott. I was wondering about a problem like the situation addressed in step #51. I thought it might be tough to re-align all the intake parts correctly, prior to install on the heads. I will leave some slack in the junctions until the intake is seated correctly on the heads. I hope to fire her (89 SHO) back up tonight. If she still is running bad, or not running, I will take you up on your previous offer to make a house call maybe next week after labor day weekend. I'm optomistic that the plugs and wires were the culprit, however, and will soon find out. You've all been a great help, and a great source of information. I will be making a book out of the shotimes and shoforum posts and articles to make a supplemental manual.
Similar threads
