Installing TOB and clutch fork.... does this look right?? (pics inside)

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92ShoOff

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So I'm installing a Fidanza flywheel with a brand new insert, a brand new SPEC stage 2+ clutch kit (clutch disc and pressure plate), a 1,000 mile old SHO NUT ceramic TOB and Teflon coated bushings, and a brand new quill sleeve.

While I had the engine out of the car for 7 months I happened to get a few specs of dirt on the TOB due to an armadillo digging a hole under my car while it was parked on the side of the yard. I just the other day pulled the TOB from the clutch fork and asked Josh @ SHO NUT what he recommended I do with the TOB. He suggested for me to clean in up very well and re-apply some synthetic grease to it. I picked up some Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease and just finished applying the grease to the fork contact area on the back side of the TOB, as well as where the original grease was on the other side of the TOB where it meets the pressure plate fingers.

I took the fork and bushing assembly and shaft out, cleaned them up, and applied silicone caliper pin grease to the fork shaft, inside and outside of the fork bushings, and the inside of the fork where the shaft slides in at.

Yesterday I installed a the new quill sleeve using Permatex sleeve retainer. After everything tried I cleaned the quill sleeve with brake parts cleaner and installed the TOB onto the sleeve with a dry fit. No grease on the inside of the TOB nor on the outside of the quill sleeve.

100 3578
100 3579

Does everything look good? Do I have too much bearing grease on the area of the TOB where it meets the pressure plate fingers?? I guess the only thing that's left is too clean the pressure plate fingers with some solvent (I have some acetone laying around somewhere). The flywheel has already been torqued down in both stages, as well as the pressure plate. Red Loctite was used on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, and I will be using it as well on the bolt the secures the TOB fork to the shaft. Is there anything else that I'm missing or anything else that you all suggest????

Thanks,
Andrew
 

Racer X

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I've never applied grease to the TOB bearing surface, as I'd imagine that it would just get flung off.

You've forgotten to replace the TOB fork retention bolt.

There should be a light coating of grease on the end of input shaft.


Other than that, everything else looks kosher. :thumb:
 

92ShoOff

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I've never applied grease to the TOB bearing surface, as I'd imagine that it would just get flung off.

I was imagining the same... but the TOB from SHO NUT had some red grease on it before... not as much as I just finished putting on though. Should I remove that grease??


You've forgotten to replace the TOB fork retention bolt.

Yeah I didn't put that in yet because I have to Loctite it, and didn't want to do that until I knew everything I've done has been done correctly. So that will be my final step once I know if that grease on the surface of the TOB should come off.


There should be a light coating of grease on the end of input shaft.

I was thinking about that. Should I use the bearing grease, or the caliper pin grease for that?

Thanks for your help!
 

Racer X

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Either bearing grease of caliper pin grease will work, but use a very light coat. Use too much and it will fling and ruin your clutch.

On the fork bolt... I've never locktited mine and it's never had an issue of backing out. Spec is 40lb.ft. IIRC.
 

93rev2sev

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I'd wipe all that grease off of the TOB. It's not supposed to slip on the pressure plate fingers.
 

Racer X

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I'd wipe all that grease off of the TOB. It's not supposed to slip on the pressure plate fingers.

Yes it is. It's a very minute amount, but there is a slight amount of slippage in the course of releasing the PP pressure.
 

92ShoOff

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Hmm... looks like I mis-read what Josh told me to do with the TOB. He never said anything about putting the bearing grease where the TOB contacts the PP fingers.... so you guys are right-- I do need to wipe that stuff off the TOB.

I noticed when I had the TOB off earlier that the race kind of rotates a very minimal amount on the body. Out of curiosity, does that race rotate any when operating the clutch??? I think I felt a tad of dirt in there after trying to get in all of the crevices with brake parts cleaner the other day. Dunno if that's going to be an issue but I need to get that transmission and motor back in the car tomorrow. I have a new SPEC TOB that I can use if I need to, but if having dirt in there shouldn't hurt I would much rather use the SHO NUT one that's in there now. What do you all think?
 

87hurricane

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Umm...are you saying that you cleaned the bearing with brake cleaner? I'm not sure if thats a sealed bearing, but you may have washed alot of the grease out of the bearing, or forced dirt into the bearing. If the bearing doesn't feel smooth when you are spining it inyour hand, I wouldn't use it, especially since it seems to be a weak point on the SHO.
 

92ShoOff

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Yeah I was thinking I did probably clean out some of that grease where the bearings are. I popped open my SPEC TOB and it looks like a piece of cake to finish cleaning out and re-packing with grease.... so I think I'm going to break open the SHO NUT one tomorrow, clean it thoroughly, and re-pack the bearings/race with grease. Doesn't seem like there;s anything to it, but I could be wrong.
 

sdpatt

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I'd wipe all that grease off of the TOB. It's not supposed to slip on the pressure plate fingers.

There should not be any grease where the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers. That connection is not supposed to slip. The bearing should be in constant contact and rotate with the pressure plate. If there is any slippage, the bearing will wear the tips of the fingers off and you will be required to prematurely replace the pressure plate and throwout bearing.

Lift on the clutch pedal more frequently than the SHO owner's manual recommendation of 5,000 miles to adjust the tension on the clutch cable. This process ensures that the throwout bearing is properly pressed against the pressure plate fingers.
 

92ShoOff

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Lift on the clutch pedal more frequently than the SHO owner's manual recommendation of 5,000 miles to adjust the tension on the clutch cable. This process ensures that the throwout bearing is properly pressed against the pressure plate fingers.

Yeah, Ford has now discontinued the quadrants and all and no more are available. Mine doesn't adjust anymore but last I checked the teeth on the quadrant and the pawl looked fine. I'll have to take another look and do some more playing around with trying to manually adjust it, but looks like I'm going to be needing one of those shims to keep things in place.
 
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