Installing Al sub frame bushings. Need new bolts??

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Off Road SHO

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I noticed that the head on my old sub frame bushing bolts does not fit down into the hole of the new aluminum sub frame bushings. Does everybody buy new socket head bolts to fit inside the recessed hole or what?

Tom
 

SableSal

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Nope, I used the stock bolts when doing mine. I did too noticed the recessed holes but no worries.

They feel great!




Sal
 

Shoaz

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The old bolts should work. Sometimes people get the recall kits to get new bolts, but they're just new and otherwise the same as the old bolts.

Recessed holes? Hmmm...never noticed that. Some folks put the washers from the recall kits in to keep the bolt from galling into the AL. I think I still have the recall washers if you want 'em.
 

Rockledge

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Out of habit, rust belt SHO folks will probably tell you to get the new bolts. :)
 

GreatHumungous

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I'm putting AL bushings in my 91 this weekend. The recall has been done but will I need another recall kit for the front?
 

shojuan

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Shonut bushings? Because those have a recess bored to accept the raised shoulder in the center of the washers that come with the recall kit. This saves you from having to grind off the raised shoulder if you decide to use those washers. I've done a set with the recess (my car) and a set without (not my car) and used the recall kit washers on both. The whole install took 4 times as long when I was grinding the washers because the best thing I had to use on them at the time was a dremel. I was ******.

Don't you want shiny (well bright and clean at least) new bolts for your bushings? :D
 

shojuan

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GreatHumungous said:
I'm putting AL bushings in my 91 this weekend. The recall has been done but will I need another recall kit for the front?
Well the point of the recall kit when doing new SFB's is basically to get new bolts. You live in the rust belt so new bolts would be a good idea regardless of whether the recall has been done before. You will need not one but TWO recall kits to get 4 new bolts. Save the new nuts, old bolts and even the washers if you decide not to use 'em. If you ever decide to install new differential bearings (like when installing a Quaife) you can 'em up and use them as a tool to pull the bearing cups into the case halves. Yeah you can buy new kits for that purpose but won't you kick yourself for throwing the old parts away that could do the same thing? Assuming they aren't rusted to the point of failure but I wouldn't know about that.
 

Off Road SHO

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Rick, Yeah, that is what ****** me off. My old bolts aren't rusty at all (Arizona car) so after I polished the head of the first one, I noticed it wouldn't fit down into the recess.

So are you supposed to use the big honkin washers with the new aluminum bashings? If so, I've got a lot of polishing to do. ;)

Tom
 

Ishodu

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Washers are not really needed as the aluminum is hard enough to not distort under the load of the bolt. If it makes you feel better you could use just a regular 1/2 or 12mm washer.
 

shojuan

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What he said. Tom, you don't have to use the big honkin' washers but you can if you want to (and without modification :p). New bolts wouldn't be an improvement because they're heads won't fit in the pocket either. Why not get some nice shiny stainless washers that cover at least as much aluminum as the bolt head would cover if there were no pocket? That should be fine and look good.

Seems like you're a niteowl like me tonight.


Good thing I'm not working on my transmission tonight like I was last night, late and tired. Went and nicked my input shift selector shaft with some channel locks trying to remove the seal the tired and stupid way. Didn't think to have the shaft pressed in while before trying what didn't work anyways and so nicked it where it will pass the seal and possibly leak/tear up the seal/let the devil out of the case, well maybe not the last one. Can't decide if it would be best to just crocus cloth polish and leave it with the resulting pits, fill with jb weld and polish it down flat, braze the pits and polish the brass flat, or replace the shaft.

I gotta make a rule to stay away from precision surfaces when I'm tired or close to becoming tired. :doh:
 

Off Road SHO

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shojuan said:
What he said. Tom, you don't have to use the big honkin' washers but you can if you want to (and without modification :p). New bolts wouldn't be an improvement because they're heads won't fit in the pocket either. Why not get some nice shiny stainless washers that cover at least as much aluminum as the bolt head would cover if there were no pocket? That should be fine and look good.

Seems like you're a niteowl like me tonight.


Good thing I'm not working on my transmission tonight like I was last night, late and tired. Went and nicked my input shift selector shaft with some channel locks trying to remove the seal the tired and stupid way. Didn't think to have the shaft pressed in while before trying what didn't work anyways and so nicked it where it will pass the seal and possibly leak/tear up the seal/let the devil out of the case, well maybe not the last one. Can't decide if it would be best to just crocus cloth polish and leave it with the resulting pits, fill with jb weld and polish it down flat, braze the pits and polish the brass flat, or replace the shaft.

I gotta make a rule to stay away from precision surfaces when I'm tired or close to becoming tired. :doh:


Sorry about that, I meant to reply and hit edit by mistake.

JB weld wont stand up to the constant pressure of the seals lip, IMHO. There is a harder epoxy you can use but its name escapes me at the moment. Brazing would definitely be the cheapest way to go just be sure to end up the polishing process with some really fine grit, like 1200, or use the crocus with some light oil. I have some old fiber optic polishing paper in 5000, 25000 and 75000 grit I could send you if you REALLY want to make it mirror smooth. PM me your snail mail if you want some.

Tom

I'm awake alot.
 

Rockledge

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GreatHumungous said:
I'm putting AL bushings in my 91 this weekend. The recall has been done but will I need another recall kit for the front?
If the recall has been done, then you will need one (1) kit for the front, since there will already be new bolts, plate nuts, and washers on the rear.

One kit contains two bolts (and 2 washers, 2 nuts, 2 rubber plugs).
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

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Tom:

I used my washers with the ASFB's. I liked the idea of the big honkin washer being between my bold and the soft aluminum. Look at it this way: you cant see them so no polishing needed.
 

Off Road SHO

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Maybe YOU can't see them. :lol: BTW, I should be installing this combo pack in the 95 this Saturday. Wish me luck, and patience.

Tom
 

Shoaz

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Tom, you need a hand on Saturday? Lemme know...I could even be there before lunchtime. :biggrin:
 

Off Road SHO

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Eric,

Yeah, that would be great if you could help, I'd very much appreciate it. And if you want to donate those recall washers if you can find them, that would be great also.

And lunchtime would be about right, I'll be coming back into town about then.

Thanks

Tom
 

yamahaSHO

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On my white car, I used the bolts that were in it already. Two of them had the recall bolts and washers, but did not actually have th recall done.

With the red car, I used the recall bolts and washers, but wasn't worried about doing th recall on an AZ/CO car.
 

Shoaz

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Tom, sounds good, I'll bring what I have regarding the washers, etc. I'll plan to get there just after lunch, then, unless you want to build a Barro's trip into the plan...
 

Off Road SHO

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Shoaz said:
Tom, sounds good, I'll bring what I have regarding the washers, etc. I'll plan to get there just after lunch, then, unless you want to build a Barro's trip into the plan...


Mmmmmm....that sounds good. PM me a number where I can let you know when I'm getting close. I'll buy too.

Tom
 

dstig1

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If you don't use the stock SHO Mongo-sized washers, use some other washers. Bolting up against aluminum without a washer is a not good idea. Aluminum is soft. You know this having worked around these engines. You will have a hard time getting a decent, accurate torque value as the head of the bolt tears into the aluminum.

Be kind to alumnium, use a washer.
 

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