identify wire?

[plumber]

Help please. I have taken a pic on 1993 SHO MTX unconnected wire. It appears to be the CKP connector. Theres a single connector coming out and from CKP harness that doesn't go to any thing ( green arrow). If you look closely to the left you will see a frayed wire coming from the other harness (red arrow). I soldered the BLK wire on to CKP connector in case it is suppose to reach the frayed wire. If anyone could look at threr 1993 sho it is on top right behind ICM. Thank you Plumber

 

[zoomlater]

The green arrow is pointing to a braid shield that goes with the four wires connected to the circular connector. Its usually stripped back the length of the wires and sleeved in a white jacket. It is then connected to the small rectangular connector which is going to a ground. Since you soldered the two together, you are making the connection as intended. I would probably tape that connection together with electrical tape to protect the soldered area and prevent further fraying of the shield.

 

[plumber]

Help please. I have taken a pic on 1993 SHO MTX unconnected wire. It appears to be the CKP connector. Theres a single connector coming out and from CKP harness that doesn't go to any thing ( green arrow). If you look closely to the left you will see a frayed wire coming from the other harness (red arrow). I soldered the BLK wire on to CKP connector in case it is suppose to reach the frayed wire. If anyone could look at threr 1993 sho it is on top right behind ICM. Thank you Plumber

I'm sorry I got the red and green wires reversed

 

[plumber]

The green arrow is pointing to a braid shield that goes with the four wires connected to the circular connector. Its usually stripped back the length of the wires and sleeved in a white jacket. It is then connected to the small rectangular connector which is going to a ground. Since you soldered the two together, you are making the connection as intended. I would probably tape that connection together with electrical tape to protect the soldered area and prevent further fraying of the shield.

 

[plumber]

Thank you for responding. I'm sorry I have the red & green arrows reversed. There was a 2 inch piece of white braided wire originally attached to the small black connector. So are you saying the small white wire was originally attached to the frayed wire sticking out of the harness to the left? thank you. Plumber

 

[zoomlater]

Yes, that is correct. The white sleeve protected the silver braid wire that was inside of it.

 

[plumber]

Yes, that is correct. The white sleeve protected the silver braid wire that was inside of it.

Thanks again for your help. I'm still in the process of getting my sho back on the road. Now waiting for ccrm from shosource. Hopefully those will be my only problems. Plumber

 

[zoomlater]

I suggest you redo your ground wire connection. Twist the shield wire so it so there is a good connection to the wire that is soldered. Also make sure you have a good connection inside the rectangle connector.

 

[plumber]

Yes, that is correct. The white sleeve protected the silver braid wire that was inside of it.

Hello .Once again I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help. Just for fun I thought I would check for resistance before connecting the 2 wires. I don't know much about ohms and resistance testing. I did a test from the BLK wire with BLK connector to grd and there was no resistance. But if I check the frayed wire to grd or the BLK wire my tester wouldn't show a steady reading. IT moved up and down between 3m and 12m ohms. Is this normal or is something wrong between frayed wire and where it goes? Thanks Plumber

 

[zoomlater]

The reading from the frayed wire varies since the wire is not continuous and a consistent gauge. This is why I suggested you twist the frayed wire together so you have more wires making contact with each other so there is a good ground path. You may need to exposed the frayed wire to make sure you have the original amount of shield braid wire to solder to your black wire.

 

[plumber]

The reading from the frayed wire varies since the wire is not continuous and a consistent gauge. This is why I suggested you twist the frayed wire together so you have more wires making contact with each other so there is a good ground path. You may need to exposed the frayed wire to make sure you have the original amount of shield braid wire to solder to your black wire.

Thanks a million for the help. I will do that and let you know what happens. I was wondering if you saw any of my other posts? Would you know what it means to only have 24 mv at TPS when performing a 5v ref test? Thanks Plumber

 

[plumber]

Thanks a million for the help. I will do that and let you know what happens. I was wondering if you saw any of my other posts? Would you know what it means to only have 24 mv at TPS when performing a 5v ref test? Do I need to cover any wires with something to shield them? Thanks Plumber

 

[plumber]

Do I need to cover (shield) any of the wires?

 

[zoomlater]

Do I need to cover (shield) any of the wires?

You can just cover the exposed shield and solder joint you did for the shield/ground. You can probably just use electrical tape

 

[zoomlater]

Thanks a million for the help. I will do that and let you know what happens. I was wondering if you saw any of my other posts? Would you know what it means to only have 24 mv at TPS when performing a 5v ref test? Thanks Plumber

I saw them but am not sure why you are getting a low reading

 

[plumber]

I saw them but am not sure why you are getting a low reading

Thank you for helping. I will work on it and hopefully the new ccrm will help. Plumber

 

[plumber]

I saw them but am not sure why you are getting a low reading

Hello. I have a question for you or if anyone else seeing this knows. I want to check the pwr and grnd on my 1993 mtx pcm. Do I pull connector off and put red probe on proper pin and blk probe to neg on battery for both test? Also what correct pin numbers do I check. My car manual isn't very detailed. Thank you Plumber