ID this electrical problem...

[MotoArts]

'94 ATX.
Went to shut off car, rotated key, idiot lights on dash come on, engine does not shut off. Ignition tumbler/column rod works fine. Only way to **** engine was to open the trunk, bang on inertia switch, then disconnect battery. So, I removed the suspeced defective combo switch under column, reconnected battery and the lights came back on (yes, without the ignition combo switch plugged in) eek! .

There is a module located under the plastic radiator cover with the stickers, on the right. It has a plug with maybe 10 wires on it. When I connect the battery, there is a relay inside of it that is triggering. I assume it runs the idiot lights and related ignition components.

What is the name and function of this module? Anybody else have this problem ever?

Pete

 

[projectSHO89]

Replace your ignition switch (not the cylinder, the electrical switch part). It is shorted.

The "module" is the relay module that controls power to the EEC, fuel pump, cooling fan(s), and the A/C clutch. This module for your car is called the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module). For 92 and prior years, it is called the IRCM (Integrated Relay Control Module).

Steve

 

[MotoArts]

I removed (unplugged) the actual switch from the system and it still does the same thing, so it can't be the switch. AC/heat is off. Fuel pump inertia switch is open (button up - no power to pump).

Is there a specific relay that I should be looking for to replace (and its location)? Do all SHO CCRM's relay(s) close when the batt is hooked up, with key off? I'd think it would drain the battery if any relay stayed closed like that w/o key in car.

shrug

Tried another CCRM today, and it does the same thing. The CCRM closes a relay for a second or two, then opens again. So, it is ruled out also i'd guess...

<small>[ November 17, 2003, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: MotoArts ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

Please be certain you disconnected the ignition switch, not the multifuction switch. The following assumes you did select the correct switch.

The only thing that would fit your indicated symptoms would be a short to battery power in circuit # 16.

This circuit should be HOT only when the ignition switch is in START or in RUN. When HOT, it goes through fuse IGN COIL (10A) in the engine compartment fuse box, then to CCRM pin 13 (Red/Lt GREEN WIRE). It also is routed to the I/P fuse box to fuse #11, where it becomes ckt #640 and is routed to the instrument panel and supplies enabling power to all the idiot lights.

In the CCRM, ckt 16 energizes the EEC power relay. That relay provides enabling power to the other relays in the CCRM and routes power back to the computer.

For emergency purposes, pulling the 60A BLWR/IGN SW fuse in the engine compartment fuse box should remove power from the whole circuit. There are two of them and the EVTM does not distinguish beteen them. You will have to pull them one at a time to see which one is the correct one.

Steve

 

[MotoArts]

I removed the white slider switch from the bottom of the steering column (plug has retaining bolt into switch).

Exactly what I was looking for, thank you thumb !!!! I'll trace it asap...

<small>[ November 18, 2003, 09:01 AM: Message edited by: MotoArts ]</small>

 

[MotoArts]

Thanks, Steve!
That info was invaluable in finding the problem. It turned out to be a short in the gray colored harness plug, directly below the thermostat housing. The large yellow and red/lt green terminals *inside of the female plug* somehow shorted together. Power must have been fed backwards through the system, since it even malfunctioned with both 60A fuses pulled.
Thanks again!

 

[projectSHO89]

Wow! I got one right! It was the only thing that would have made sense, but I didn't expect it to be very likely.

You're welcome!

Steve