i tried everything and still will not run

[Jeff93SHOmtx]

ok so ive tried just about everything,still no fire...my dis module is good,the ccrm is good,theres power going to the ccrm,no blown fuses or fusable links,no bad wires nothing and still will not run. with my key on i have no power going to my fuel pump the motor cranks but will not fire. i know my pump is good anymore ideas?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Did you check the inertia cutoff switch in the trunk?

 

[Jeff93SHOmtx]

yep thats fine as well

 

[rubydist]

if there is power going to the ccrm, but no power to the fuel pump, that suggests the ccrm is bad. there should be power to the fuel pump for several seconds after you turn the key to 'on' regardless of what the fuel pressure is.

 

[Jeff93SHOmtx]

I've replaced the ccrm twice now. The one turned the elec fan on but that was it it didn't do anything else. Temporarily I ran a key on hot wire to see if my fuel pump was good and it worked. I still have no spark when I crank the motor over would that still be a bad ccrm or a crank sensor? I'm at a loss here

 

[Racer X]

- You said you replaced the CCRM... what letter is the CCRM?
- When you turn the key to on, does the CEL turn on?
- Is the harmonic dampener (crank pulley) installed and the crank bolt torqued down to at least 120ft.lbs.?
- Are the crossover tube brackets installed and tightened?
- Is the single 12ga. ground wire at the battery (-) connected and grounded at the fender?

 

[SHOtime2511]

Intake and DIS grounded correctly?

 

[hawkeye18]

well something you said isn't true. If the CCRM, the wiring, the inertia switch, and the fuel pump are all good, then it will work, period.

Is the fuel pump enable signal being sent from the EEC? Relays need an activating signal to close. If the fuel pump relay is not getting the voltage to activate the relay, that could be the cause of it.

If you look at your EEC self-test connector (the one you hook a code reader or paper clip up to in order to get codes), the bottom right pin (tan/light green wire) is the fuel pump ground. With the key in the ON position, ground this pin. Run a wire or whatever to a ground. Negative battery terminal works well. Does the fuel pump turn on? If it does, the wiring from the EEC to the CCRM telling the fuel pump to turn on is messed up (or the EEC is messed up!).



You want to look at pin 18, LFP ground. When you turn the key on, there should be no resistance between that pin and ground for the few seconds that fuel pump should be on. Obviously, you're going to need a helper for this.

If, the moment the key is turned to ON, pin 18 grounds out for a few seconds, then somewhere between the CCRM and the fuel pump, something is messed up. If it doesn't ground, the wiring between the EEC and the CCRM is jacked.

I hope this helps.

 

[TYSHO]

Yep, same story before I swapped my computer brains out.

 

[TYSHO]

Did you check the inertia cutoff switch in the trunk?

yep thats fine as well

How did you check it?

You can't just look at the switch and make sure it is depressed. You will need to pull the switch out and check the wires when you position the key to the run position, power will run to one of the two wires. The power will only be provided for 1-2 seconds before it cuts off, unless you have someone turning the key all the way in an attempt to crank the motor. The problem can be the actual switch. If it is, you can bypass this by connecting the two wires together.

Another quick test is to pull the button up and press it back down, I've had to do this a few times before.

If these test fail and the CCRM is good, it's time to start looking at the computer.