I Need help asap. Please.

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djacks222

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My car drives fine... except an annoying winning noise.

My first thought was the trans, but shifts are firm and fine. RPMS don't slip. it still does 2-1 downshifts fine.

Power steering pump was my next thought.. as I know it's bad as it burns my fluid too fast.

However.... that abs light came on solid today and I can't clear it for the life of me.... so I'm getting it read tomorrow.

My speedo stops at 55. My car is not sluggish except if I w.o.t from a dead stop. Then at 2100 RPMS and sometime 3150 RPMS it kicks me to my seat as it should. And sometimes it has acceleration spurts like it romps fine then loss of power for a split second. And it repeats it's self until I get to about 35mph.


I turn my wheels left and right either with the car off or on and it squeeks like a door almost. But it is not from the middle o my rack and pinion. It is from my front driver tire area. Dead Center of the hub. Just like the wining noise when I drive.

And the noise is sudden. Nothing until I get to speed. And it sounds like something is rubbing more than a whine. Then I put my car in neutral while going 35mph and the wine is still there....
I'm lost here....


Wheel bearing maybe? ??


My s.a.I is unplugged and it still is there. . Man I'm so lost... and as a delivery driver for silver mine subs... I kind of nerd my ride.. please please please help me. I will post codes today at 7am when auto zone opens
 

E1

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ABS is how your car reads speed input. If the ABS is not getting the correct signal out to the computer then things get bad, like shifting funny/not at all, speedo display wrong or missing are common side effects.
Finding out the ABS code and fixing that issue will probably fix most if not all of the engine/transmission management issues.

That creaking noise - there is a bearing on top of the strut in the front shock tower so the strut can pivot when the front wheels are turned. I'd bet that is the source of your noise when turning the wheel whether the engine is running or not. Jack up the car so the front wheels are off the ground and try turning the wheel again and see if things are more quiet when the strut bearing is unloaded.

Whining noise - steering pumps are common, but should be relatively easy to pin down just listening. A harder to find sound, deeper in the middle of things, is often the torque converter in my experiences.
 

djacks222

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Thank you for the advice it really helped me narrow it down.

The turning noise is exactly what you said it was :).

The whine.. well It's coming from my front drivers side tire area/ hood area. It's something to do with the suspension/steering. My motor runs a little hot. Like touch hot. And yet the temp is normal.

This is complicated. I checked the wheel bearing and it did not have play in it. I drive straight as a line on the highway at 75mph. The whine is more annoying than abnoxious. Like the wheel bearing has a loud echo abnoxious noise. And if there was a piece of plastic on the tire is annoying....and that's what it sounds like is something rubbing just ever so slightly. It's not a metal grinding noise it's just an annoying noise.

Power steering pump doesn't really circulate it seems like but yet it is still easy to turn my wheel and with a SARC switch I can still notice a major difference in the steering. I pull my ps pump fuse and it stiffens up too. So I think that's good but yet it burns my fluid.

Idle Pulleys... we have 3 of them and the tensioner isn't sold as a assembly. Just the pulley for it is availible.

Alternator is great I can remove my battery with no change in the cars idle.

I guess it's gonna be expensive lol....
I'll do the three idle pulleys and belt tensioner first. Then go to ps pump and water pump.

The torque converter seems fine. It doest miss a shift or slip at all. It engages right away and holds RPMS at any speed. Uphill is a beast especially in 3rd. I do need coil pack 6 changed and that will fix the hesitation. But it still is that noise..

I'll get a video ND post it
 

98SF19

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The hose from the filter housing to the water pump is a big culprit. Also, I believe Eric (E1 above) did a write-up on replacing the gasket in the oil cooler a while back. You need a big socket to get in there, and McMaster-Carr charges a fortune for the gaskets (at least for shipping). I had to buy a pack of 8 or so.
 

djacks222

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If it's plug and play. ..................... intake manifold bolt pattern does anyone have it or could find an accurate one please



Ecu.... perhaps use it on the 3.4l and solve many preformance hindrances


What about coil packs and valve covers... maybe they are close enough to mod...



Now the oil thing. I see exactly what you are talking about. Would a filter relocate kit have the rings??
 

djacks222

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Well........... I don't know why it would be making the wine but it is something in my trans.

I bought a 8.99 bottle of hyper **** severe instant quiet and well...... I haven't heard it wine yet.

So now I know that it is this... I need to look for replacements. I'm going to yank a 97 continental 4.6 and ax4n set from the yard here. Also the computer since it is bigger fuel injectors and even the mass air flow sensor to match the air flow of the new motor.
 

djacks222

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Back to topic......

This is solved. The issue was the serpentine belt it shredded and caught the cv haft shafts which tangled it around the bearing boot.

I feel like an idiot lol but at least it wasn't the trans. ..... what a coincidence... the wine stopped when I spent money.... came back the next day and showed me
 

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