How to remove ATX

[DoC-JoneS]

so will i have to unbotl any of the strut assembly?

yes i have a '95 AXODE and a D4U1 ecu with a ted B chip. as soon as i get my 94-95 knuckles i'll be a chrome trim and 4 door handles away from being a 95...

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

hey i got chrome trim on my 93 but no green handles though
well no nothing with the strut assembly will have to be touched
well you going to be watching Conan tonight????

 

[DoC-JoneS]

no hadn't planned on it. should i? i got black handles i want green ones and i want to rid myself of the chrome bezel.

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

ya he's going to be talking bout his 92 green sho most of the time.
just will be interesting to watch. Well i want to now how hard it would be to put the green handles on my 93 sho.
And white on my 91+ i think they look better then black

 

[DoC-JoneS]

well i've got an engine hoist. i just need to find the rear lift point on the motor. you wouldn't happen to know it would ya? i've run searches but i can't find anything. i know the front point is near the alt but i doubt there is a rear one.

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

I used the bolt that holds the heater core tubes to the head. Its beside the EGR valve never had a problem with it.
Ford used to sell a bracket but i don't think they do anymore??

 

[Mr Anonymous]

well i've got an engine hoist. i just need to find the rear lift point on the motor. you wouldn't happen to know it would ya? i've run searches but i can't find anything. i know the front point is near the alt but i doubt there is a rear one.

Factory specified point is on the driver side of the rear head where the bottom of the intake bracket attaches. Easiest way I've found is to use the two bolts that hold the crossover tube, and the bolt by the IAC.

 

[DoC-JoneS]

so is that a go or no go on the bracket by the alternator?

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

go nuts with it

I am going to use these when I pull the motor and tranny out of the 89 this weekend.
Going to freashen up the motor and new clutch and freshen up the trans.
going to be quicker this way. Going to be cleaning up the engine bay and replace all steering lines.

 

[DoC-JoneS]

bolt by the IAC? explain. btw i know where the IAC is i'm just not sure which bolt you're talking about...

 

[Mr Anonymous]

bolt by the IAC? explain. btw i know where the IAC is i'm just not sure which bolt you're talking about...

There is a 12mm bolt just forward of the IAC valve that helps secure the intake to the front head via a bracket. I remove that bolt, rethread the bolt through a chain link (add a washer) and loop the chain over the engine support and back to the rear lower bolt where the RH head secures the bracket to the intake. Same thing at the crossover tube, just go from one bolt to the other with a length of chain over the support.

 

[DoC-JoneS]

well the engine is lifted and the subframe is dropped. sort of. haven't been able to remove y pipe so the frame is only semi dropped. now i'm working on getting the cv shafts out then down comes the tranny! damn i have 2 jackstands, one floor jack, one bottle jack, one scisor (sp) jack, and engine lift and tranny jack on my car right now. sweet jesus it's crowded down there...

 

[DoC-JoneS]

UPDATE!

well got the cv shafts out today after alot of four letter words. now i'm on the bellhousing bolts. i got two off on the top and found a third under the coil pack. where are the rest of the little guys?

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

well there is one down by the shifterlinkage and 2 on topp and 1 down under the coil pack.
then there are 2 going through the other side and 2 through the oil pan.
one is in a hard place to see on the back side of engine.
good luck.

 

[DoC-JoneS]

and 2 through the oil pan.

i'm not gonna have to drop the pan am i?

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

no you just take the 2 bolts out of the bottom of the bell housing and thats it
Don't drop the oil pan.
REMEMBER TO UNDO THE TORQUE CONVERTER NUTS.
There is a hole there to undo them. Use a 15mm socket for those.

 

[DoC-JoneS]

REMEMBER TO UNDO THE TORQUE CONVERTER NUTS.

yeah i got that. was searching around the other day and found that little tidbit. damn i'm doing a full write up on this long and laborious process...

 

[DoC-JoneS]

well well, i'm still not done yet! anyways all bolts & connectors have been removed, and i have yet to be able to pull the housing from then engine. what gives? i was beating on it this morning with a tie rod puller and a sledge hammer, and nothing. do i need to come at it from more than one side? i am going inbetween the oil pan and the lower bellhousing fwiw. is there a better point to pry from? the engine and tranny are both being supported and it SHOULD come out easily. WTF?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Sounds like you're still missing a bolt somewhere...

You did get the (two or three, I can't remember Gen 2/3 which has which at the moment) bolts on the bracket behind the passenger CV axle that go into the tranny, right?

Once all the bolts and TC nuts have been removed, it should just about slide out on its own. If you've got a lot of sludge build-up that might be obscuring a bolt, try getting a couple of cans of Brakleen or carb cleaner or whatever and start spraying around where the bellhousing meets the block to see if you can find any bolts you might have missed.

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

Well I would try and look at all the 8 bolts from the bellhousing and the 2 on the passenger side mount if all are out then you got major corrosion and need to brake it part.
Well let me know if you get it I would like to see what you done but I am up here in Ontario Canada. Well good luck and hope your new trans work alot better then this one. You see what I go thru everyday at work. Good thing you don't own a gen 3, The exhuast is much harder to remove from the rear.
This can make it 3 times longer to pull.

Oh by the way did you get the frame completely out.????