How to get Crank Off

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

New to the SHO

PopGoesTheWeasel
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
170
Reaction score
0
Location
portland
I can't get the crank bolt off I used numatic tools with the compressor and It wont budge. The engine is out of the car on the stand, any thoughts?
 

windsormw

stretch nuts
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
183
Reaction score
0
Location
windsor , ontario
every seen the 60k vid

mark buts a breaker bar on the nut , pulls the DIS connections ( to prevent start up ) and cranks it over .

200 & something flbs is what the nut is tourqed @ . Crank will spin clock wise . so pin it on the right side

maybe i forgot somethin , but the members will correct me
 

shopartsnw

SHO Medic
Staff member
Sponsoring Vendor
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
519
Location
Battle Ground, WA
When the engine is out of the car it makes it a bit tougher since you cannot use the starter for power.

I have had luck (3 for 3) removing the crank bolt using an impact gun. My puny Harbor freight model won't budge it, but after soaking PB blaster for about 30 minues my Ingersol Rand will remove the bolt. It has to grunt, and you want to take it off in short bursts (don't just keep the trigger pulled). I have heard of more than one person breaking the bolt off with an impact gun. Then you will really have problems.

Good luck

- Mike
 

I'll sho u

New Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
196
Reaction score
8
Location
saint john,nb,canada
I have had to on one occasion had to heat the head of the bolt litely. Before I did that even a 1 inch drive impact gun would not budge it.
 

Shoaz

Studly dood
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Messages
4,637
Reaction score
593
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Long breaker bar is amazing. I've gotten quite a few large, high-torque fasteners off this way that wouldn't budge with an impact.
 

sillystring

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2004
Messages
57
Reaction score
1
Location
Northeast Ohio
Use hand held torch with MAPP gas. Hold torch on bolt head for as long as it takes to drink one 12 oz beverage of choice. 5 minutes minimum.
Bolt should come off with no problem with decent impact gun.
 

Toolman

Boost it!
Club Mod
Joined
Jan 28, 2001
Messages
6,765
Reaction score
3,163
Location
Grand Lake, Oklahoma, USA
FWIW, the proper TQ for that bolt is 113-127 ft lbs (or 112-126, depending on where you read). But not anywhere near 200ft lbs. Only fastener that I can think of that needs to be TQ'd near that is the axle nuts (195ft lbs approx).
 

DHMag

Free At Last
Joined
Jun 11, 2002
Messages
2,935
Reaction score
1
Location
InCahoots, Texas
sillystring said:
Use hand held torch with MAPP gas. Hold torch on bolt head for as long as it takes to drink one 12 oz beverage of choice. 5 minutes minimum.
Bolt should come off with no problem with decent impact gun.

and while youre at it, go ahead and replace the dampner with one that hasnt had its integrity compromised by excessive heat.
 

Ishodu

SHO Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2002
Messages
5,077
Reaction score
615
Location
Ontario Canada
You place a long breaker bar on the bolt then take a chunk of 4X4 or something and haul off and slam it.
 

pete315

SHO Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2004
Messages
285
Reaction score
1
Location
Long Island, N.Y.
when I did my timing belt, the last monkey mechanic that worked on car stripped the bolt. I had to use an air chisel, made a slice in the washer and worked out the bolt. use the washer to work out the bolt. chisel the washer on an angle and it should break free. of course, you will need a new crank bolt.
 

Mels

SHOVELHEAD
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
1,594
Reaction score
149
Location
Brookfield CT
Poor mans' impact? Maybe Perry is referring to the in-line impact that you strike with a drilling hammer (AKA Lump hammer).

You can get an inexpensive one from Sears, and they actually do a pretty good job of jarring all the threads at once if you fill the gap in the socket so you're transferring the energy to the face of the bolt as well as the hex. Like hitting it with a hammer at the same time as you're trying to turn it.

I can't see Perry hauling off and bludgeoning a breaker bar to death!

Good luck. Let us know what ended up working for you.
 

Shoaz

Studly dood
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Messages
4,637
Reaction score
593
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Mels said:
I can't see Perry hauling off and bludgeoning a breaker bar to death!

You don't bludgeon a breaker bar, you make it long enough (with a cheater), so that you're continuously applying much more torque than the impact. I have various length conduits laying around that give me up to 5' of leverage on a bolt. Even at 200ft/lbs I only need to apply 40lbs of pressure to the bar to overcome that. Not too tough.

You can apply so much torque with a breaker bar and cheater that you have to be careful about breaking the tools (e.g., the bar, the socket). Almost always the bolt comes loose first, though.
 

Mels

SHOVELHEAD
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
1,594
Reaction score
149
Location
Brookfield CT
Shoaz said:
You don't bludgeon a breaker bar, you make it long enough (with a cheater), so that you're continuously applying much more torque than the impact. I have various length conduits laying around that give me up to 5' of leverage on a bolt. Even at 200ft/lbs I only need to apply 40lbs of pressure to the bar to overcome that. Not too tough.

You can apply so much torque with a breaker bar and cheater that you have to be careful about breaking the tools (e.g., the bar, the socket). Almost always the bolt comes loose first, though.

That would work perfectly, if he were able to keep the crank from turning which seems to be the problem.

I'm a big fan of the 3/4" breaker bar and a good cheater pipe (have several old ones I consider friends :) )

By bludgeoning, I was referring to the above post (Ishodu) where a breaker bar and a length of 4x4 were recommended, presumably to strike the bb with. Sorry for the confusion.
 

60kmaintenance

New Member
Joined
May 30, 2005
Messages
522
Reaction score
0
Location
U.S.A.
I've used spare pipes to make a longer then 8ft extension on a socket wrench / breaker bar, what ever...... I was still using all my weight, but it worked. Heh, that was for a 71 trucks control arms but yeah.....

Sounds to me like the crank turning is the only real problem. You've got all the room in the world for a longer extension with the engine out of the vehical.
 

SuperHO

Mental Patient
Joined
Sep 8, 2002
Messages
5,696
Reaction score
1,370
Location
St. Joe, MI
Just a thought, but if the engine's out of the car, we can assume the tranny's unhooked....why not just wedge something in the clutch to keep it from spinning?
 

NIGHT_RIDER

New Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2002
Messages
222
Reaction score
0
Location
Dearborn Heights, MI
I had the same problem while doing the 3.2 swap. I had picked up the donor motor from Jersey, and it was already out of the car. I tryed heat, PB Blaster, an impact gun, but nothing worked. I ended up using a 3 foot long breaker bar with a 5ft piece of pipe as the cheater. To keep the crank from spinning I took off the oil pan and placed a piece of 2x4 between the crank counterweight and the block. Wouldn't you know it, the damn bolt came right off. :thumb: Now I don't know if using the 2x4 where I did was the right thing to do, but it worked for me and it caused no damage.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,094
Messages
1,181,344
Members
16,158
Latest member
ribeye2065

Staff online

Members online

Back
Top