black93sho
New Member
I'm planning on taking in my 93 to get the air conditioning fixed. I don't know whats wrong with it, probably needs a recharge and to be retrofitted to R-134. What do you guys think it will cost to get this done?
How much to troubleshoot my A/C?
- Thread starter black93sho
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SHOkid13
Take it to the track
Cost me about $100 IIRC. On my '93 they couldn't leave the new fill valve on, as it hit my hood. Incase you are worried about it blowing cold enough, mine is great. 
A quick note to make sure your ac stays good: turn it on occasionally in the winter time to keep the seals lubed so all your refridgerant doesn't leak out.
A quick note to make sure your ac stays good: turn it on occasionally in the winter time to keep the seals lubed so all your refridgerant doesn't leak out.
rangerj
Active Member
The A/C compressor should be drained of the R-12 refrigerant oil and the "O" rings at the compressor, and all other "O" rings replaced at all of the connections should be replaced. The R-12 "O" rings are generall not compatable with R-134a. There are conversion kits available that have "O" rings, new garter springs, and R-134a compatable refrigerant oil.
Do not try to clean the inside of the compressor. Just let the old oil drain out. Put in about 5 ounces of R-134a refrigerant oil in the compressor. Then an additional amount of oil can be introduced with the refrigerant. The total amount of refrigerant oil should not exceed 8 ounces (7.5 to 7.75 ounces).
The system must be vacuumed at 27 to 30 inches of vacuum for a minimum of an hour, let stand for 1/2 an hour to check for leaks and then vacuumed for another 1/2 hour to an hour. the removes moisture. Then charge the system to the specified low and high pressures. It will take about 30 ounces of R-134a refrigerant.
The above is not the best way to convert to R-134a, but it will work if your system components are in good shape. Therein lies the rub.
Do not try to clean the inside of the compressor. Just let the old oil drain out. Put in about 5 ounces of R-134a refrigerant oil in the compressor. Then an additional amount of oil can be introduced with the refrigerant. The total amount of refrigerant oil should not exceed 8 ounces (7.5 to 7.75 ounces).
The system must be vacuumed at 27 to 30 inches of vacuum for a minimum of an hour, let stand for 1/2 an hour to check for leaks and then vacuumed for another 1/2 hour to an hour. the removes moisture. Then charge the system to the specified low and high pressures. It will take about 30 ounces of R-134a refrigerant.
The above is not the best way to convert to R-134a, but it will work if your system components are in good shape. Therein lies the rub.
Rockledge
Pluggin' away
100 bucks for a complete retrofit and servicing of the A/C system? That's a great price. With all that's involved, parts and labor (including the new freon), I wouldn't be able to get off for less than $200-$250 around my area for that kind of service. (Glad I got a '94SHOkid13 said:Cost me about $100 IIRC. On my '93 they couldn't leave the new fill valve on, as it hit my hood. Incase you are worried about it blowing cold enough, mine is great.
A quick note to make sure your ac stays good: turn it on occasionally in the winter time to keep the seals lubed so all your refridgerant doesn't leak out.
). Also, if I'm not mistaken, the A/C compressor won't engage under a certain ambient temperature (somewhere around 10*C), so I'm not sure that you can turn it on at will like that in the wintertime. Maybe rangerj can confirm or refute this.
NemoX
New Member
Turning on the defrost will engage the A/C compressor, to obtain dry air for the defrost.
SHOkid13
Take it to the track
Rockledge said:100 bucks for a complete retrofit and servicing of the A/C system? That's a great price. With all that's involved, parts and labor (including the new freon), I wouldn't be able to get off for less than $200-$250 around my area for that kind of service. (Glad I got a '94
Also, if I'm not mistaken, the A/C compressor won't engage under a certain ambient temperature (somewhere around 10*C), so I'm not sure that you can turn it on at will like that in the wintertime. Maybe rangerj can confirm or refute this.
Okay, I did do that at my friends shop... I guess he gave me a great deal!
Not sure about the ambient temperature thing... (as I don't have to worry about that much around here). I was just told to cycle it on during the winter to keep the seals wet so they don't crack and leak.
rangerj
Active Member
Yes the A/C will engage with the defrost on at low ambient temperatures. And, ditto on turning the A/C on periodically in the "off" season. It does help keep things sealed. I run mine for about 10 minutes at least once a week. I do it before the engine gets warm so that it would be blowing cold air out the vent anyway.
NemoX
New Member
Along the lines of running the A/C, about 2.5 years ago, my SHO got totaled and sat for a year. A few months ago, I went to try to get the A/C running again ( moved to florida and now its kinda necessary ). It will blow wonderfully cold air, but makes the car want to stall at idle. Most of the time, the computer will correct and bring the idle back up, but if you let it fall off quickly from a higher RPM it won't catch the idle. Any ideas what could be going on ?
NemoX said:
You need to reset your idle. <---do a search.
It's funny how some SHO's act this way and others don't. I have never reset the idle on any of my SHO's and never had any problem, but when the same was done on Greenbean, it wanted a reset like it was a drug that she became addicted to.
Minnesho
i was wrong
i'm going to retrofit to 134a this summer, the condensor was damaged in a collision and its been a couple years since it all leaked out. i suppose i should probably replace the compressor since who knows how much moisture has gotten in there?
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