help please

[sweet sho]

hey guys, i need your help if someone can help me. I was travelling out of town today with my wife and son and the sho just died. It just started puttering and then had no power at all and once i had pulled over to the side of the road then it stalled. The check engine didn't come on and it was very hot today and the car was running fairly hot. After about a half an hour of letting it cool down then i started it up and i got another 2 hours of it. I finally made it to my destination but it took 8 hours when it should have been 5. I think that i had read somewhere that it might be the cam sensor. When they get real hot they go(at least that's what i think i read). Can anyone help me out with this please or give me any ideas. If it is the cam sensor then i'll change it but i thought that i should see what someone else thinks.

I'm sorry about the long story but i thought that it might help. I need to go back home in 2 days and i'd like to make it home in 1 piece with my fam. And not get stuck on the side of the road again in 35 degree weather with traffic doing 120(kms) 2 feet away from you

Thanks everyone Ed

 

[shopartsnw]

Check for coolant dripping from the area around the crankshaft pulley. When the water pump starts leaking, it will drip on the crank position sensor and leave you stranded. After it dries and cools, you can usually start the car, but it will get worse.

Good luck

- Mike

 

[shoteen95]

usually if it's ignition related, the computer will store a trouble code..

A very helpful tutorial for checking codes (and an all around good site): http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

Both the cam position sensor (CID) and then crankshaft position sensor (CPS) will wear over time, like a lot of electronics subject to a good amount of heat. A leaking water pump will spell doom for a CPS pretty quickly, has the car been losing coolant?

If you run the codes, and dont get anything relating to the ignition service, i wouldnt rule out the fuel pump. As they get old, they dont tend to like heat.

Things to check for: If it stalls again, try and restart and keep an eye on the tach. If it's dead, thats a pretty good indication of a CPS problem. Also watch to see if the check engine light stays on while cranking.

The CID sensor isnt all that hard to change, but the car should be able to start eventually if it's simply a bad CID. The CPS will definately take some time, especially if you're like me and are pretty new to tearing into these cars.

Check out these links on www.shotimes.com

SHO stalls (CPS related) http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=76

General DIS, CID, CPS info (very technical) http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=251

Front 60k service tutorial (details replacement of CPS and CID) http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

PS, i'm struggling with ignition problems of my own, so far i've experienced a dead tach, stalling, and have gotten CID trouble code thrown at me. I think i've learned more about the SHO ignition in the last few days then i have since i've owned my car.

 

[Redline]

It could be the CID. My symptoms when mine went bad: bucking and then stalling when hot, difficult turnover on attempted restart with backfiring, if it did restart right away it ran awful and usually died right away, sometimes a dead tach and usually a cel, wait 5-10 minutes and it started and ran fine. Might be that, but it might also be your CPS or DIS. Get the codes pulled and you might have a better idea.

 

[sweet sho]

ok here's the thing. I just changed my CPS about a month ago and my waterpump cause it was suggested for my 60k. I'm also not leaking any rad fluid at all and i'm not losing any also from what i can tell. So i don't think that it's leaking any thing on the CPS. Also the check engine light does not come on. I'm not at a spot where i can check my codes but i'm taking it around town today and hopefully nothing happens. Last night i tried to go out for a drive and it never acted up so i'm not sure what to do. Maybe it only acts up after a while of driving.

Hope this helps
Thanks Ed

 

[Bizzy]

If you have access to a paper clip or a small piece of wire (2-3") you can check your codes. It's really hard for us to tell you what to look for unless we know what the codes are since any number of things could cause similar symptoms.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

If you have access to a paper clip or a small piece of wire (2-3") you can check your codes. It's really hard for us to tell you what to look for unless we know what the codes are since any number of things could cause similar symptoms.

You caught in a time warp or something dear?

 

[dpsutphin]

I had some of the same symptoms. The camshaft position sensor will go bad and not turn on the check engine light. It will set a code though. Mine turned out to be a partially blocked fuel filter. If the car runs good again when the secondaries open up, that is probably your problem. In any event, a fuel filter is about 10 bucks and 10 minutes to replace. It is worth a try.