Help me....!!

[Cruez]

Ok.. replaced the water pump and timing belt last night...Seeing that I have no manual, I probably goofed something...

It wont start now..I think It may be the timing...It tried to start for a split second...now nothing. I figured the timing was correct for a sec until it turned over..
I did not replace the Crank sensor so that could be a possibility also. How can you tell if its the sensor?

How is the timing set at the crank end?? Is there a mark on it I missed?..I got the top two fine...but the bottom was a guess..I just put it as tight as it would go on the right hand side...then connected the tensioner..

Help....please...need it for work monday morning...

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[This message has been edited by Cruez (edited 11-24-2001).]

 

[sdpatt]

There is an indent on a tooth on the crankshaft sprocket. That mark should be aligned to approximately 5:00pm when the camshaft sprockets have their indents set at 12:00 alignment marks. The new timing belt is installed such that the writing on the belt is readable in the normal left to right manner when viewed from the driver side fender. There are three white marks on the timing belt that must match the three indents on the camshaft sprockets and the crankhaft sprocket.

If the crankshaft position sensor was working before, it should be working now too. If you removed it and replaced it, you need to set the air gap between the sensor ring and the sensor at 0.03" on ALL THREE VANES of the sensor ring.

I'm sorry that you didn't have a procedure to perform this job. I can't believe you would try it without one. I wish you good fortune. You will need it.


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Scott

1991, 252K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, SHO Shop front & rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
Class II hitch, Silver award at the SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[Cruez]

Ive done it on other OHC cars but..like I said..I didnt see the mark on the crank sprocket.. But I have a good feeling that it is the culprit.
The reason I thought It might be the sensor is due to all the water when I pulled the pump..
I didnt replace the sensor either, so the gap part I can dismiss..
Thx for the info.. Been working on it for 14 hrs today...due to the crankshaft bolt not coming out...starter method broke a rachet, had to drive everywhere to get an impact wrench....didnt work...then finally used a 3/4 breaker bar...blah blah blah....
I'll start over in the morning and do it again...probably in 1/3 the time..
and Im exhausted....and sore..

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[This message has been edited by Cruez (edited 11-24-2001).]

 

[Cruez]

Is there a way to test the CPS???

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[fredhurderjr]

Scott - Our local SHO mech. says the crank sensor should be set to .024" - that's what mine is on the 91 & it fires great.

You can manually fire the car (create spark) by running a metal feeler gauge through the crank sensor gap. However, you need to be very careful doing this, as you car fire the car. We tried it on the 91 but couldn't get it to work, although the crank sensor is good. I don't know the exact procedure, but others I'm sure can fill in. Essentially, if you get spark, the crank sensor is ok (I'm told).

I would have removed the crank sensor prior to replacing the water pump (too late now for you, but maybe for others...)

 

[sdpatt]

Fred,

The Ford spec on the CPS gap is 0.03". I measured the distance between the permanent magnet and the sensor face and the thickness of the sensor ring. The 0.03" gap puts the ring in the middle of the gap.

Cruez,

Here is a link to some photos I toook during a 60K maintenance. If you enlarge the photos and look closely, you can see the white lines on the belt and the index marks on the sprockets that must be lined up. The second white mark on the belt at the crank sprocket is for the 3.0L engine. The 3.2L and 3.0L have different tensioner mechanisms and the belt is one tooth different. Click the link below and enter the password "jh60k" for Jeremy Hohn's 60K.
http://www.photoisland.com/servlet/GuestLogin?USERNAME=sdpatterson

Password: jh60k

Scott

 

[Cruez]

Well, I think it is the timing,. have spark.. And I just pulled it all off again..NOW i see the crank timing mark...it seems to be off, so I'll reset it and see what happens..

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[Cruez]

Ok...nevermind..

I didnt take the CPS off so the gap wouldnt be it..

The timing was right.. now... I am getting spark. I can smell gas in the tailpipe. But it will not start..

What have I overlooked..?

Edit just checked again...Go no spark..

Sounds like the CPS right??

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[This message has been edited by Cruez (edited 11-25-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Cruez (edited 11-25-2001).]

 

[Cruez]

I got the CPS out, put an ohm meter on the connections at 150 mA DC....... tested all connections while passing a piece of metal between the pickup...nothing.
So I ordered a CPS...be here tuesday...

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[bigdoggee]

Okay did you take off the left side intake manafold? The side where the DIS is connected? If so, did you screw in the two bolts that hold the manafold down?

I had the same problem... My car would turn over but would not start!! I guess for the DIS to be properly grounded those two bolts need to be screwed in!!

 

[Cruez]

Yup....unfortunately I put everything back together...I didnt think I would have a problem...
So I hope it is the CPS...OR I have no clue.

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