I own a 91 SHO which refuses to start after I replaced the clutch .
The work of replacing the parts was uneventful for the most part, the one thing that should be mentioned is that when the trans was being lowered the shift fork caught on a wiring loom, nothing drastic I thought at the time but apparently I was wrong? All connectors have been checked and no problems found, but I'll continue on anyway.
After the car was all buttoned back up I tried to start the car and it cranks just fine. My current symptoms are: No CE light, no fuel pump prime, cooling fan stays on all the time when key turned to run or start.
Thus far I have checked KAPR and grounds to both the EEC and IRCM, both voltages and resistance are good. I have replaced the main wiring harness from the EEC to the IRCM, replaced the EEC with a known working unit, replaced the IRCM with a known working unit and many many other voltage checks. There are two topics on my forum of all the measurements and tests that I have done, none of which have rendered me any positive resuilts.
I am posting here today because I wanted to get some fresh thoughts on the topic. Things that I would like your thoughts on are detailed below. Keep in mind I am electrically challenged; I'd rather change 20 clutches and rebuild 50 transmissions over having 1 electrical issue any day of the year.
EEC (no CE light) - This from what I'm told is often caused by no power or no ground or LPM issues. I don't have an LPM installed at the moment and power and ground have both been verified. To my knowledge pin 20 is case ground, pins 40 & 60 are power grounds. Pin 46 is the ground (or signal return) for the sensors attached. Is there another ground that I could be missing?
The cooling fan running constantly when the key is turned to run or start I think is tied into the EEC issue. My thoughts are that when the EEC issue is cleared up this "symptom" will resolve itself as well. Thoughts on this?
Fuel pump no priming - The first thing I verified in this was that the inertia switch was not tripped. I manually tripped it and reset it just for good measure. Continuity from the EEC to IRCM was verified, from the IRCM to the inertia switch was also verified. There is no voltage from the EEC to the IRCM however.
From what I understand, the EEC will lower the voltage on pin 22 for several seconds in order for the fuel pump relay to energize on the IRCM. This is not happening. Questions are why? And how to correct this?
The fuel pump will energize by jumping the test connector. I can also manually power the fuel pump at the computer and the IRCM to make it turn on. Another question, is this just another symptom of an EEC problem that will resolve itself once the EEC issue (no CE light) is resolved. I'm leaning toward yes.
I know I have left many details out, but I have been going around and around with this since early July so my thoughts are jumbled with things I simply don't understand.
If you have any suggestions on something to check or thoughts on the matter in general (aside from parting the car, this is not an option in this case...too much $$ involved in this car) I'd greatly appreciate reading them. I have at my disposal a breakout box, 91 schematics, shop manual and EVTM, 92 and up CD roms.
Sign me.... "Desperate in Michigan"
The work of replacing the parts was uneventful for the most part, the one thing that should be mentioned is that when the trans was being lowered the shift fork caught on a wiring loom, nothing drastic I thought at the time but apparently I was wrong? All connectors have been checked and no problems found, but I'll continue on anyway.
After the car was all buttoned back up I tried to start the car and it cranks just fine. My current symptoms are: No CE light, no fuel pump prime, cooling fan stays on all the time when key turned to run or start.
Thus far I have checked KAPR and grounds to both the EEC and IRCM, both voltages and resistance are good. I have replaced the main wiring harness from the EEC to the IRCM, replaced the EEC with a known working unit, replaced the IRCM with a known working unit and many many other voltage checks. There are two topics on my forum of all the measurements and tests that I have done, none of which have rendered me any positive resuilts.
I am posting here today because I wanted to get some fresh thoughts on the topic. Things that I would like your thoughts on are detailed below. Keep in mind I am electrically challenged; I'd rather change 20 clutches and rebuild 50 transmissions over having 1 electrical issue any day of the year.
EEC (no CE light) - This from what I'm told is often caused by no power or no ground or LPM issues. I don't have an LPM installed at the moment and power and ground have both been verified. To my knowledge pin 20 is case ground, pins 40 & 60 are power grounds. Pin 46 is the ground (or signal return) for the sensors attached. Is there another ground that I could be missing?
The cooling fan running constantly when the key is turned to run or start I think is tied into the EEC issue. My thoughts are that when the EEC issue is cleared up this "symptom" will resolve itself as well. Thoughts on this?
Fuel pump no priming - The first thing I verified in this was that the inertia switch was not tripped. I manually tripped it and reset it just for good measure. Continuity from the EEC to IRCM was verified, from the IRCM to the inertia switch was also verified. There is no voltage from the EEC to the IRCM however.
From what I understand, the EEC will lower the voltage on pin 22 for several seconds in order for the fuel pump relay to energize on the IRCM. This is not happening. Questions are why? And how to correct this?
The fuel pump will energize by jumping the test connector. I can also manually power the fuel pump at the computer and the IRCM to make it turn on. Another question, is this just another symptom of an EEC problem that will resolve itself once the EEC issue (no CE light) is resolved. I'm leaning toward yes.
I know I have left many details out, but I have been going around and around with this since early July so my thoughts are jumbled with things I simply don't understand.
If you have any suggestions on something to check or thoughts on the matter in general (aside from parting the car, this is not an option in this case...too much $$ involved in this car) I'd greatly appreciate reading them. I have at my disposal a breakout box, 91 schematics, shop manual and EVTM, 92 and up CD roms.
Sign me.... "Desperate in Michigan"
