HELP...CLUTCH/Trans apart twice...can't find problem

[qiksho]

Ok...I will tell the whole damn story again. My dad's 92 SHO was getting hard to shift, throwout bearing noise, etc. definately needed clutch at 129k. So we bought all wear parts from SHONUT and put the car on stands and put in the new clutch, had flywheel refaced, etc. We put the car back together and the car won't shift worth a shit. YES..I put 3 quarts of Type F fluid in trans, Yes I adjusted clutch cable.

SO...after looking and thinking about things we thought maybe driving it for 5k miles with a bad clutch/throwout bearing we bent shift forks/or synchros or something. SO we pull the whole thing back out today. Take apart tranny and everything looks good for a car with 129k on it, however we did put 1/2, 3/4 synchros and all blocking rings in anyways. We also thought maybe the rubber shift boot was rubbing on the carpet under console so we trimmed that. Put it back together and guess what...still shifts like shit.

The clutch feels whipser smooth...It has about 2 inches before engagement from the floor.

What in the **** could it be? I am stumped and my dad is ready to sell the car.... shrug

 

[revhardSHO]

slave cylinder?

 

[SHOnuff93]

no slave cylinder on the sh, we have a cable clutch. My car is the same way, second gear is very notchy my rebuilt transmission ***** worse than the one i blew a diff pin in. My guess is the type of fluid used, and/or the new parts need to break in. Is it possible that our rod shifters were installed incorrectly?

 

[qiksho]

Well I used MOtocraft type F...as the Ford manual, car manual and ford dealership says goes in the tranny.

As far as the new parts, all the tranny parts replaced looked very good. Why would they need to break in?

As far as incorrectly installing the rod shifter. I don't see how...I took it off and put it back on myself 3 times now. There is no adjustment...

shrug

 

[revhardSHO]

smithsil goes to bed feeling embaressed
sorry....

 

[SHOnuff93]

Guess my ideas aren't your problem, dont seem to be mine either. Hope somebody chimes in here and lets us know where to look.

 

[qiksho]

BUMP

Well I will try and explain some more of my thoughts on what I think it could be.

When I originally replaced it there were broken teeth on the pressure plate, and the throw out bearing was toast, the fork that the throw out bearing gets pushed with was worn pretty good.

Well I replaced all but the fork. My question is: is it possible to bend that shaft the clutch cable attaches to?

Also when I took it apart the second time there was noticeable wear on the pressure plate, I could stick my fingernail in the grooves. The car only had about 500 miles on the clutch at this time. Is this normal? or is the throwout bearing always partially engaged?

When out of gear the car doesn't want to move, so could it be partially engaged on not want to roll?

shrug

 

[RStalveyARFF]

I've always read that the MTX-IV takes Dexron/Mercon

 

[sdpatt]

The Ford owner's manual that came with my 1991 SHO says to use 6.2 pints (3.1 quarts) of either Type F or MERCON II (now III) in the manual transaxle.

 

[twr]

Does it shift like shit only when driving?? How does it shift if you're just sitting there?? When you had the tranny apart, did you notice the plastic pieces that sit at the end of the shafts were they in good condition and not plugged up??

 

[qiksho]

Twrsho - It is hard to tell exactly because it is a little notchy when the car is off also. However, I think it is smoother when the car is off. Yes I inspeced the plastic gears, yes they were clean, and in good shape.

The synchos and blocking rings looked excellent for a car with 130k on it, but since he already bought them we put them in anyway.

sdpatt - I was hoping to hear from you on what u thought it could be since u know more about these cars than most. Yes the tranny took all 3 quarts of Type - F fluid.

I still have same question...Is it normal to have enough wear on the pressure plate to be able to stick you finger nail in and see really clearly with only 500 miles on new clutch? If so I don't see how that thing will last 60-80k. eek!

 

[qiksho]

Bump

 

[DougLee25]

I was actually walking to class today and thought.... Hmmm, I wonder if that Qiksho guy got his car fixed yet?? Anyway, my thoughts are that the pressure plate isn't releasing fully and thus why it is hard to shift the car. You say when the car is in nuetral it is hard to shift, and the car doesn't move. What if you jacked the front of the car up and then started the car, and checked to see if the wheels move then? I am thinking the weight of the car is keeping the car from moving, but in reality, the clutch is still partially engaged for some reason. I don't think that is it normal for there to be a ridge in the pressure plate in 500 miles. Something is obviously wrong with the throwout bearing, clutch fork, pressure plate setup. Let me know what you find, as I am bugged to death as to what the problem is.

Doug

 

[shojuan]

SHOnuff93:
no slave cylinder on the sh, we have a cable clutch. My car is the same way, second gear is very notchy my rebuilt transmission ***** worse than the one i blew a diff pin in. My guess is the type of fluid used, and/or the new parts need to break in. Is it possible that our rod shifters were installed incorrectly?

What kind of fluid did you fill it up with, Tyler?

Rick

 

[It's SHO Time]

Qiksho,
Well in my owners manual at least is says to use Motorcraft Mercron (ATF, but anyways I was reading in another post about Lucas additives, If I were you I would go down to the Parts store and find some of it for the tranny and try that click here to go to that post
http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=002956
I hope this link works shrug

 

[shojuan]

I've never replaced a clutch so don't take my advice as that of an expert but I would think that the wear on the pressure plate would be similar to what you would see on a freshly resurfaced brake rotor after a bit of mileage. Brake rotors can get some good grooves worn in very quickly. If this is what the pressure plate looks like then I wouldn't worry about it unless somebody with actual clutch experience says something different. You might try emailing Josh at shonut and definately give Tom at Shoshop a call. Tom always says he's more than happy to help. I'm sure he'll have some ideas. Email Nick Chrimes too. Nick usually replaces one or two SHO clutches a month and he's a perfectionist. He's probably thought of a lot of things that can go wrong if he hasn't seen it already.

Also did you check your shifter clearance with the y-pipe after reassembly? It's possible to put the y-pipe on where it looks like it fits fine but the shift linkage rubs while shifting. If you haven't checked then get under the car and check while your dad shifts through the gears.

Rick

 

[LaTechSHO]

so did you or didn't you replace the fork?

they do bend....its rare..... but they do

Louis

 

[LaTechSHO]

another thing i just thought of..... what was the condition of the flywheel?... is it worn down too much?....

everytime you change a clutch/pressureplate you should have the flywheel resurfaced.... (same reason for turning rotors or replacing them)

Louis

 

[qiksho]

Ok...Never thought of puting car on jacks and puting it in neutral to see if it engages. Good idea. Why didn't I think of that?? When I get a chance I will try this. Thanks.

Yes I did have the flywheel resurfaced.

No I didn't replace the fork...I't definately had some wear, but I didn't think it would matter looking at how it works...It just pushes the throwout bearing...maybe I am wrong.

I have talked to Josh threw email. He thought synchros and bloching rings...so we replaced them. Anyone have tom's number handy?

 

[Bizzy]

I wish I had enough knowhow to offer you a suggestion. This is a pic of my pressure plate fingers after 6k miles. What you describe does not sound normal for pressure plate wear. Best of luck in figuring it out and keep us posted.