93atx car, 94000 miles, instant drop in oil pressure with oil light and check engine light on and buzzing coming from bottom end. I'm convenced the oil pump is pumping but maybe the bypass valve is stuck open. Car starts, idles, and does not over heat. obviously i'm not driving it. no bearing damage i hope. These cars have probably the best design oil pump ever. I feel like its ok, please give feedback. Thank you!!!!
HELP, bottom end noise?????
- Thread starter kev93sho
- Start date
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Bizzy
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Moving to troubleshooting section. Please follow the link there to help this guy.
stevetatro
New Member
Probably just the rod bearings. I say "just" not to make you think they're not important, but because there's a good chance you can change them and (if your crank hasn't been damaged) be back on the road.
The rod bearings are officially a wear item on the V6 SHO engine. There's no point in ruining cranks when the preventive maintenance can be done with under $100 of parts (including bearings, gaskets, etc).
FYI, the Clevite brand rod bearings can be ordered through Napa stores (or online). Part number CB-1435P for about $7.50/set (the SHO obviously needs 6 sets). Oil pickup tube gasket, oil pan gasket, etc. can be had numerous places.
Good luck.
<small>[ May 27, 2003, 12:44 PM: Message edited by: stevetatro ]</small>
The rod bearings are officially a wear item on the V6 SHO engine. There's no point in ruining cranks when the preventive maintenance can be done with under $100 of parts (including bearings, gaskets, etc).
FYI, the Clevite brand rod bearings can be ordered through Napa stores (or online). Part number CB-1435P for about $7.50/set (the SHO obviously needs 6 sets). Oil pickup tube gasket, oil pan gasket, etc. can be had numerous places.
Good luck.
<small>[ May 27, 2003, 12:44 PM: Message edited by: stevetatro ]</small>
Yamaha V6
SHO Enthusiast
I'm going out on a limb here & mentioning that once the bearing has spun the damage is already done; the crank is most likely gouged, and therefore needs to be replaced.
Replacing the rod bearings before they spin is the best bet in preventing low-end damage.
There are other shops out there that have accused me of making this **** up in order to roust up business. BS. I don't care if someone brings me their rod bearing swap, brings it to someone else, or does it themselves - DO IT.
I've been showing you guys here the same things I'm seeing: some show serious wear early on in mileage (100k), and others are "fine "at 150k+.
As poor Kev here is probably going to find out, the $100 worth of parts + any labor is going to be far cheaper than losing an engine.
At this point Kev, it will be worth your while to dive in & replace the bearings & see if the situation is at all fixable (even if it's to sell the car after). Watch the oil pump as a possible (though not likely) failure point. Check to make sure the pickup tube screen isn't clogged with something; if it is, pull the pump out too & make sure it's not clogged as well.
Best of luck with your issues.
Replacing the rod bearings before they spin is the best bet in preventing low-end damage.
There are other shops out there that have accused me of making this **** up in order to roust up business. BS. I don't care if someone brings me their rod bearing swap, brings it to someone else, or does it themselves - DO IT.
I've been showing you guys here the same things I'm seeing: some show serious wear early on in mileage (100k), and others are "fine "at 150k+.
As poor Kev here is probably going to find out, the $100 worth of parts + any labor is going to be far cheaper than losing an engine.
At this point Kev, it will be worth your while to dive in & replace the bearings & see if the situation is at all fixable (even if it's to sell the car after). Watch the oil pump as a possible (though not likely) failure point. Check to make sure the pickup tube screen isn't clogged with something; if it is, pull the pump out too & make sure it's not clogged as well.
Best of luck with your issues.
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