I would have to agree with the fuel pump being the most likely problem...I just replaced mine this summer. You have a Inertia switch in the trunk of the car left side behind a carpet panel where the tail light is, Make sure THAT it is not tripped, and if so push the button in and start the car, if it is not tripped check for 12VDC coming in to the switch and then check for 12VDC going to the pump. If you have the proper voltage then you can try a temp bypass or permanent one and see if it starts, if not and if you have 12VDC at the output side of the switch then I would go after the fuel pump. It is not a real difficult job, I did mine in 3 hours in a driveway with snapon cordless impact gun to help me with the tank strap bolts after I sprayed them with PB blaster. I am also assuming that you have no active codes. Before I R&Rd my fuel pump I did go through the basics such as checking grounds, fuses, etc. One quick check is to see if you hear the fuel pump "whine" for a quick sec when you turn the key to the on position but don't start. When my pump went I did not have any sound what so ever when I put the key in the on position. And thats what led me to believe my pump was bad and it turned out it was. To further verify the problem on my car, when I dropped the tank before I went after the pump I checked for 12 VDC at the plug. I couldnt check it with the tank in so I went ahead and dropped it and I had good voltage, so that proved right there the pump was bad. I hope that I was some help and didn't confuse you. Good luck...PS if you do a search or look in the HOW TO section there are step by step on how to do the job, there are two ways to do the job...read them and pick the way you want to do it...again good luck!!!!