Help! 93 Sho

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bballcat03

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Hey all. I got a problem I'm hopin someone could help me with. I have a 93 SHO and whenever I'm just sitting there idling, it will just die like I've killed it. It's a stick also. Any ideas? It doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. Maybe the fuel pump?
 

Black '93

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Could be alot of things. Does it idle irraticlly? Does it fight to stay running, or does it just die? Make sure the next time you put up a post, you quote your problem in the title. If you just type "help please" nobody is going to answer you.
 

bballcat03

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ok thanks. It doesn't fight to stay running, just every once and a while while idling it will die like I've killed it.
 

Black '93

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Chec all of your air/vacuum hoses for leaks or cracks. When did you have a tune up last? You might just need plugs/wires/fuel filter type stuff, but it could be a fuel delivery problem too. It could even be a ground wire shorting out intermittently, or an idle air control sensor. You have to figure out when it happens. Does it only happen when its cold? Does it only happen after you beat on it? how often does it die? Is your check engine light on? It could even be an oxygen sensor because mine did the same thing when it had a bad sensor, but I'm thinking idle air control motor.
 

naval-avi8or

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bballcat03 said:
Hey all. I got a problem I'm hopin someone could help me with. I have a 93 SHO and whenever I'm just sitting there idling, it will just die like I've killed it. It's a stick also. Any ideas? It doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. Maybe the fuel pump?

PULL AND POST THE CODES. CODES CAN BE PRESENT WITHOUT A CEL.
 

bballcat03

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I think I can go to Schucks and get codes pulled for free. I just bought the car recently so no tune-up.
Check engine light is not on, but works cause everything lights up when I start the car
It does not matter if it's cold or not. It just all depends. Like last night I drove 20 minutes from my buddy's house to Jack in the Box and it died sittin in the drive through line
 

jaded93atx

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If the idle surges up and down (usually between 500 and 1200) and to keep it running at idle you have to feather the accelerator it may be a dirty IAC. Search IAC for troubleshooting and removal instructions if any of this sounds familiar. A stuck IAC wont show a code and will cause the engine to quit especially once its warmed up. If you do clean it make sure you dont just soak it with carb cleaner, use a Q tip and make sure you get all the gunk off the plunger shaft. I think shotimes.com has the procedure in the care and feeding section. Just dont drop the allen screws into the intake snakes they can easily fall and are a PITA to fish out, theyre aluminum so you cant even use a magnet.
 

ohfosho

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pull you code with a paperclip. i bet you have CPS problems...any maintenance done in the last 90 k miles? (everything is recomended at 60k) do a search on 60k maintenance for more info.


the CPS will cause a sudden, no fight stall situation. there is no warning...as that is the warning that the sensor is malfunctioning. it doesnt start to idle bad or anything...just drops dead. you may be able to start it up right away, you may have to wait up to an hour, or maybe never...untill you replace the part. it gets worse the longer you let it go...the more coolant leaks onto it, the more dirt and oil and heat get to it.
 

bballcat03

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allright since I'm a newb, will someone cirlce the IAC for me please
2237ad9c.jpg
 
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naval-avi8or

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bballcat03 said:
allright since I'm a newb, will someone cirlce the IAC for me please
2237ad9c.jpg

It's the small can (silver with black end) looking item just above the "C" in the word DOHC on the intake.
 

jaded93atx

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Like I mentioned check out "cleaning the IAB valve" on shotimes.com. Newbie or not youre gonna have to at least pull your own weight and actually research what advice is offered. Its an easy procedure, and being a pround new sho owner youre going to have to get used to researching and performing your own repairs. There is alot of times when different people will have different opinions on what can be causing a problem because when explained in type they seem to mimic other issues. Not double checking info given can be dissapointing, expensive, and a waste of time. Troubleshooting someone elses ride over the internet is not always an exact science.
No worries though youll know your engine bay better than any ford certified hack in no time. Your allready in good shape from the pics it looks nice and clean!
BTW when my CPS failed it happened all the sudden and it WOULD not restart so it doesnt sound to me like a failed CPS. When mine and others here have failed the check engine light stayed on while cranking and had no spark. An easy way to check for spark is to stick a phillips head in any spark plug boot and while someone turns the engine over ground the shaft of the screwdriver against the intake manifold (snakes), a spark should arch from the screwdriver to the manifold. If not then look into the crankshaft position sensor.
 
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naval-avi8or

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jaded93atx said:
Your allready in good shape from the pics it looks nice and clean!

I was gonna say he needed a qt of oil and some grease and dirt to throw in that engine bay.

As stated any given issue can be a result of several diferent sensors or parts going bad. CPS's are known for exibiting the same symptoms your having but so is a bad DIS, Bad fuel pump, Bad CCRM and who knows how many other items. It could be any one of a a dozen or so electrical sensors or relays that when heated to operating temp etc causes them top intermitantly fail.
Codes are the key or starting point for all troubleshooting. Not all sensors throw cosdes and several don't illuminate the CEL (Check Engine Light). The CEL is primarly for Emmision related problems. There are to types of codes test KOEO (Key On Engine Off) and KOER (Key On Engine Running) and within those there are sub codes hard codes and memory codes.
 

jaded93atx

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Naval aviator... I just edited my origional post to include a test that identified my failed cps. But as you said it could be a number of things, I'm just trying to help him out with first offering the somewhat easy and free things to troubleshoot and possibly correct as Ive learned them. But like you said checking for possible codes is the seemingly obvious first task! it will sure help rule out other possibilities.
Also like you said I wish my engine bay still looked like that! Its been a long time gone
 

bballcat03

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Ok I disconnected the IAC and like I saw in a previous thread, my car would not start like it should. It would turn, but not start. I cleaned it out, but there wasn't much in there. I took it out and for some reason, maybe it was just me, it ran stronger. But I then took it out again and the same problem occured. Like stated, it's only every once and a while and when I'm idling. It'll raise up to 1000 and then drop down to 500, the oil light will come on just as it's dying, so maybe it is a quart or oil I should put in it, who knows.

I only disconnected the thing from the other black piece, I wasn't suppose to take the entire black piece out was I? Does the 2nd part even come out? The part that's connected to the silver thing that's like 5" long or so???
I'll check out that shotimes link and see what I can find!
 

bballcat03

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No, haven't had time. Hopin to stop by schucks tomorrow before court...I plan on leaving early enough to do so anyway...I have a sidekick so I will post the codes as soon as they pull them!
 

jaded93atx

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That oil light is coming on because of the low oil pressure caused from stalling, thats what it should do. Unfortunately low oil levels wont cause the car to stall, it will keep on going until its shot. It sure does sound like a stuck IAC valve though, get them codes, and make sure you check out shotimes theres lots of good stuff on there to help you out.
 

bballcat03

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Ok guys I'm on my way to get my codes pulled and a new problem occurred. Same thing, dying with out killing the clutch, except now its not just when I'm sitting at a stop idling, but when I'm shifting and driving at lower speeds. Basically when I engage the clutch to shift from 2nd to 1st pulling into a parking lot, it'll die. And when I shift into 1st and cruise into my driveway, it will die as I'm pullin in the driveway as I engage the clutch to put it into reverse(I also park in reverse unless I'm on a downhill obviously lol) and it will die. It never does it shifting from 3rd to 2nd and so on...just 2nd to 1st and 1st to nuetral or reverse. Anyone?
 
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