ok, i just took out the dash and i changed the blend door, a couple of days ago i was smelling coolant inside the car. im not leaking anything inside the car, but yesterday my car started leaking coolant from the rear of the engine, it didnt loose much but i cant tell where it is coming from, all i know is its leaking from where the egr is......please help me
heater core problem??
- Thread starter SHOman24v
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
If it were leaking from the heater core, you would get drainage from the A/C condensate drain and/or fogged up windows (film that won't wipe off easily).
What part of the EGR system? The valve, the tube, etc?
Steve
What part of the EGR system? The valve, the tube, etc?
Steve
bump....ok i have the heater casing loose, something is holding it in....i think the part is for the air conditioning??? it has a valve on the piping and it and is toward the firewall....goes into firewall and looks kinda square...PLEASE HELP ME!! i cant get this part to seperate?!?!?!?!?!?!?
Levand16
New Member
you need to get the tools to disconnect the A/C lines... most auto parts stores should have them. But before you try to remove that line make sure the A/C system is not charged.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
Uh oh!
If you don't know how to safely discharge the A/C, don't try it yourself! You could end up with freeze-dried eyes or fingers. The risk is not worth it!
BTW, you need to disconnect both the upper and lower A/C lines. On an MTX, there is very little room in which to work. The ATX has a little bit more due to the different position of the engine within the bay.
Heater core replacement has been covered several times, a SEARCH will definitely turn up a lot of information that I and others have previously posted.
Steve
If you don't know how to safely discharge the A/C, don't try it yourself! You could end up with freeze-dried eyes or fingers. The risk is not worth it!
BTW, you need to disconnect both the upper and lower A/C lines. On an MTX, there is very little room in which to work. The ATX has a little bit more due to the different position of the engine within the bay.
Heater core replacement has been covered several times, a SEARCH will definitely turn up a lot of information that I and others have previously posted.
Steve
ok, how you do you discharge the ac???.....i dont use the search feature because it doesnt work for me. it says something like will show results once 200 - 300 matches were found, im on a modem and dont want to wait.......
<small>[ May 10, 2003, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: SHOman24v ]</small>
<small>[ May 10, 2003, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: SHOman24v ]</small>
qiksho
SHO Addict
When I replaced my heater core I ran down and had a shop drain the a/c for me...they refilled it again for a small charge...reusing what they pulled out. wink
Levand16
New Member
I dont remember the sizes I used... I bought mine in a set from Snap-On.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
Yes there is a special technique:
VERIFY THE SYSTEM IS NOT CHARGED. IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW, DO NOT PROCEED! IF IT IS CHARGED AND YOU POP OFF THE HOSE, YOU WILL FREEZE-DRY SOMETHING IMPORTANT, LIKE YOUR EYES OR YOUR FINGERS.
1) Spray everything with PB Blaster
2) Work the springlock tool inside the coupler to expand the garter spring. The upper and lower lines use different sizes.
3) Cuss
4) Remove the power steering reservoir, the battery, and the engine roll dampener. Remove any clamps that are holding the hoses to the inside of the fenderwell.
5) Combine twisting, pulling, and cussing to get the line off the evaporator. Spray everything liberally with PB Blaster and cuss some more. Keep the removal tool engaged all this time.
6) If and when you finally get it off, go have a beer (or 6).
Remember, the key is to combine twisting with the pulling and cussing.
Steve
VERIFY THE SYSTEM IS NOT CHARGED. IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW, DO NOT PROCEED! IF IT IS CHARGED AND YOU POP OFF THE HOSE, YOU WILL FREEZE-DRY SOMETHING IMPORTANT, LIKE YOUR EYES OR YOUR FINGERS.
1) Spray everything with PB Blaster
2) Work the springlock tool inside the coupler to expand the garter spring. The upper and lower lines use different sizes.
3) Cuss
4) Remove the power steering reservoir, the battery, and the engine roll dampener. Remove any clamps that are holding the hoses to the inside of the fenderwell.
5) Combine twisting, pulling, and cussing to get the line off the evaporator. Spray everything liberally with PB Blaster and cuss some more. Keep the removal tool engaged all this time.
6) If and when you finally get it off, go have a beer (or 6).
Remember, the key is to combine twisting with the pulling and cussing.
Steve
You won't have to remember, it will come naturally. It's recommended to replace the 2 o-rings on the male end of each fitting that is disconnected with new ones. They are made from a special material, and can be bought at a dealership. Lubricate the fitting with refrigerant oil before reassembly.
ill keep you guys posted on my progress, i cant believe that these two lines are holding me back from getting my car going.....and if i cant get the lines apart, i wonder how much im going to have to pay someone.....
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
When I did mine the first time, I finally used a hacksaw after a weeek of messing with it. Since the system was shot anyway, it didn't bother me.
Steve
Steve
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
I had to replace the lines anyway to fix the A/C system because the system was open and contaminated when I got the car.
I hacked them off about 1-2 inches on the engine side of the springlock connector. Once the evaporator core was out of the car, I was able to get the stubs off the evaporator with Vice-Grips.
Steve
I hacked them off about 1-2 inches on the engine side of the springlock connector. Once the evaporator core was out of the car, I was able to get the stubs off the evaporator with Vice-Grips.
Steve
Similar threads
