Heat after forever and a day???

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SuperHO

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So my trip to work is about 14 miles at 45-55mph (depending on weather), and it takes damn near the whole trip to heat up. Now, I don't have an A/C condensor, but my water pump is newish and my thermostat is working just fine. So why does it take so long for my feet to thaw?
 

Vnuk1

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the Heater control valve (a valve that prevent hot water flow when you dont want it), may be clogged or malfunctioning. this is typically located on the heater hoses between engine and firewall.

Never mind they don't have one you got me:braincramp:
 
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Storm-Chaser

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I usually begin to get some heat within just a minute or two after starting, as long as the system isn't low on water/antifreeze.

The only time I have a problem getting heat, is when it's well below freezing (below 10°F), and then only if I start driving immediately and don't allow the engine to first warm-up. In that case it will only blow heat when the thermostat opens and cycles, and can take 10 minutes or longer before the first "cycle". In one case I drove 17 miles (~20 minutes of driving) and it never blew anything remotely approaching warm. It was 5°F that morning, with a windchill of -12°F, so imagine what type of windchill effect there is at 70mph?

:oogle:

An old-school trick with the old Mustangs, was to use a small section of cardboard to block ~half of the front of the radiator to restrict air flow, to reduce the amount of heat loss.


:burnout:
 

projectSHO89

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There is no windchill effect for an automobile radiator since there is no evaporative cooling.

1) Make certain the cooling system is full. An air pocket in the system can cause the flow to stop.

2) Check the temps of the heater hoses as the engine warms up. They should warm up relatively evenly as the coolant warms up.

3) Check the upper radiator hose temp as the engine warms up. It should remain cool until the thermostat reaches its setpoint, typically 190-195F. At that time, the thermostat should open and the hose should then warm up to the engine temp.


Steve
 

Racer X

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Try unplugging your CELO switch, if all of the above checks out.
 

hawkeye18

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Run the diagnostic test on your EATC to rule out the CELO. I left it disconnected once and it called it out like a champ.

If that doesn't work, then... man, I hate to say it, but it does sound awful like a stuck thermostat...
 

SHObill

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Tim, check the two heater hoses coming off the coolent manifold going to the firewall. Could be kinked, reducing flow. Esp if they have been replaced with non-formed ones. I also found a case where the hose clamp was tightened too much & crushed the tube on the heater core. Also had a case where the SubFrame was all the way rearward & along with weak SFB & frt MMount, when clutch was let out, it kinked a hose!
 

platoribs

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Does your thermostat have the secondary disc out at the end?

Doesn't that have something to do with warmup time by reducing the water volume path? :shrug:
 

93rev2sev

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how many holes are in your thermostat housing: 0, 1 or 2? Are they positioned at 12 o'clock?

If the engine temp seems to be lifting off the peg but you still have no heat...make sure you aren't low on coolant.
 

Storm-Chaser

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Ah, . . .

. . . WRONG!

:slap:

Evaporative cooling, is the cooling effect that results from the latent heat of vaporization, which removes heat energy in the process of converting water to water vapor. Wind chill is the cooling effect that results from the removal of the insulative air surrounding an object, which accelerates the rate of temperature change of that object. Basically, it changes the rate of convective heat loss.

And here's a simple experiment. During any cold morning, allow your car to fully heat-up without moving it, and then check the outside air temperature via the EATC. Even if the front of the car is parked into the wind, you will find that it is well above the known outside air temperature, since heat from the engine has created a bubble of warmer (insulated) air around the engine compartment. As soon as you begin to drive, the temperature will begin to drop toward the outside air temperature, outside the engine compartment. And the faster the car travels (and thus the faster the air passes through the front of the car), the faster the outside air temperature as displayed by the EATC, will drop.

Why, because the movement of the colder air, strips the warmer air from around the object that would otherwise insulate it and moderate the rate of heat exchange (rate of temperature change). That's why thermal underwear works. That's why you layer winter clothing. Because it prevents the loss of the insultated air from around the object - in this case your body - allowing your body to maintain the temperature of that insulated air with metabolic heat.


There is no windchill effect for an automobile radiator since there is no evaporative cooling.

. . . .


Steve
 

Storm-Chaser

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Hey, it some of that weather stuff the FAA forces you to learn as a pilot. And as a military pilot . . . . Well, you know how much meanless trivial crap the military makes you learn !


But, you're welcome, Howard Cosell . . . .


:wave:
 
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projectSHO89

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"Wind chill" does not apply to inanimate objects. Look up its definition.

What you are discussing is convective and, to a much lesser degree, conductive cooling.
 

hawkeye18

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See, that's kinda what I was thinking. I always thought wind chill was what made your mind think it was colder than it was, due to the wind blowing away the insulative layer in your hairs - which would be convective cooling, as applied to biology.

But I've learned my lesson when it comes to saying Storm-chaser is wrong; he is never wrong.
 

SHOCH

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He thought he was wrong once.......

















But he was wrong.
I say check for the bubble and fluid level, and like Paul said Iron block.
 
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