Have a Nitrous Question? Ask it here!

[SHO_OFF]

I have been doing a fair amount of research on Nitrous for the SHO's and while I have found many answers, I still have more questions. Let's start with what I do know!

The Best Nitrous Kit for the SHO is the ZEX Dry Nitrous Kit #80211 It comes with 55 and 75 shot jets.

It is highly recommended that you run colder Spark Plugs. Recommended plugs are the Autolite #3923

Best location is 6" in front of the throttle body in the intake tubing. It is highly recommended to replace the flexible rubber tubing with a 45 degree Silicone hose.

You can run up to a 75 shot without any other fuel modifications. Above a 75 shot, and you will need to replace the fuel pump/ Fuel pressure Regulator/ Fuel injectors...
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Questions I had...

1) When is/ how do you arm the system for the drag strip? I have read that it isn't good to run in 1st gear.

2) Can you run Nitrous on an AutoCross track? I'm sure you can, but would you?

3) Do you need to get a Bottle Warmer if you are only running in the summer?


I figured we could maybe turn this into a *Sticky* where everyone could turn to for Nitrous Questions/Answers!

 

[jayro]

1. What is your reasoning for not running in 1st gear? Only reason I could think is traction issues. There are a number of guys on here that have run nitrous a lot at the drag strip and to the best of my knowledge they all spray in 1st gear.

2. It probably depends on the club you run with whether they allow nitrous at the autoX. I don't believe it is allowed with the SCCA. I have been asked about it when I went through tech before. Sam would be a good person to ask. He does a lot of autox and also ran nitrous when he went to the drag strip.

3. For optimal performance you would want a bottle warmer. It may not be as essential in the summer, but if you don't increase the temp of the bottle at all, you will see a pressure drop as you reduce the volume in the bottle.

 

[AREA 91]

I have been doing a fair amount of research on Nitrous for the SHO's and while I have found many answers, I still have more questions. Let's start with what I do know!

The Best Nitrous Kit for the SHO is the ZEX Dry Nitrous Kit #80211 It comes with 55 and 75 shot jets.

The kit comes with 55, 65, and 75 hp jets.

It is highly recommended that you run colder Spark Plugs. Recommended plugs are the Autolite #3923

Correct!

Best location is 6" in front of the throttle body in the intake tubing. It is highly recommended to replace the flexible rubber tubing with a 45 degree Silicone hose.

This is fine, or you can tap the bottom of the throttle body.

You can run up to a 75 shot without any other fuel modifications. Above a 75 shot, and you will need to replace the fuel pump/ Fuel pressure Regulator/ Fuel injectors...

No need to replace the fuel injectors unless your going to run a really big shot!
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Questions I had...

1) When is/ how do you arm the system for the drag strip? I have read that it isn't good to run in 1st gear.

The nitrous is activated when you reach WOT. I have a window switch on my system. This allows me to choose the starting and stopping RPM of the nitrous system.
In drag racing, you need a good 60 foot in order to achieve a low ET.
You definately want to spray in 1st gear if you have the tires to hold it.

2) Can you run Nitrous on an AutoCross track? I'm sure you can, but would you?

Most don't allow it in sanctioned events.

3) Do you need to get a Bottle Warmer if you are only running in the summer?

You don't "need" it, but for the best performance you want your bottle pressure around 900-950 psi.

I figured we could maybe turn this into a *Sticky* where everyone could turn to for Nitrous Questions/Answers!

If you want more n2o advice, look under my name.

 

[SHO_OFF]

I had thought I read somewhere on here that 1st gear was to short to spray, and that like you mentioned the traction issue.

Question about running an AutoCross ie. High Plains Raceway for the National Convention this year, if we are able to of course, is would there be more risk/ issues running nitrous with the gear changes back and forth between 2nd & 3rd?

 

[jayro]

I had thought I read somewhere on here that 1st gear was to short to spray, and that like you mentioned the traction issue.

Question about running an AutoCross ie. High Plains Raceway for the National Convention this year, if we are able to of course, is would there be more risk/ issues running nitrous with the gear changes back and forth between 2nd & 3rd?

As long as you are getting enough fuel, I don't think there would be an issue. If you lift off the throttle to shift then it will cut the nitrous.

With that said, in AutoX it is not really about having the most power. Sure power can help some, but it is more about driving technique. I have autoX'ed my SHO on a number of occasions and without the correct technique even stock power will cause you problems.

 

[justin mccluske]

I squeeze mine when ever I hook up. I have mine wired to a toggle switch that changes the state in a relay so I can use my horn buttons. switch down my horn buttons are horn buttons. switch up my horn buttons are now my zex switch. This was the easyest/cleanest way I could think of to have control of my zex that way it is not "juicing" between gears.

 

[SHOspazz92]

The WOT switch is still the best way to do it.

You can not Autocross with Nitrous and I guarantee it would do nothing but make you slower.

You can not Run a Road course with Nitrous.

You can spray Nitrous in 1st gear. Brian Sprays it right out of the hole, I spray it when I'm done switching the clutch. However both of are cars are capable of hooking up in 1st gear, most are not.

Here is an example of spraying in 1st.

[YOUTUBE]oO0pCUhrgOM[/YOUTUBE]

I run a 100 shot with the 82011. I have 3.2 Injectors (which really are not much different from 3.0 Injectors), a 155lph Pump and run Autolite 3923 copper plugs.

-Sam

 

[SHO_OFF]

I'm doing a 3.2 with 3.0 cams, Ported Intake, BBB's, All new gaskets, new Rod Bearings, SHOsource Equal Length Y-pipe, Fidanza 9lb flywheel, Either ClutchMasters Stage 1 or OEM Clutch(have both), and plan to run the ZEX kit with a 75shot. And yes, Copper Spark Plugs! Do you think I will need to run a higher Fuel Pump with the 75shot with the other mods I will have, or will the Stock be ok still?!

 

[SHOspazz92]

I'm doing a 3.2 with 3.0 cams, Ported Intake, BBB's, All new gaskets, new Rod Bearings, SHOsource Equal Length Y-pipe, Fidanza 9lb flywheel, Either ClutchMasters Stage 1 or OEM Clutch(have both), and plan to run the ZEX kit with a 75shot. And yes, Copper Spark Plugs! Do you think I will need to run a higher Fuel Pump with the 75shot with the other mods I will have, or will the Stock be ok still?!

You can probably get away with a stock pump, but a Walboro 155LPH pump is cheap insurance and does not require a FPR.

-Sam

 

[SHOtime2511]

Best "bang to buck" ratio build!

 

[SHO_OFF]

Fred(rubydist) has been building it for me/ teaching me things. This will basically be a "New" motor! We soaked the pistons and cleaned them to basically new.

 

[vortex2450]

Ok, I'll shoot.

-When is the appropriate time to upgrade to an FPR given a 155lph fuel pump? A 75 shot or a 100 shot ?

-Minus fuel press, spark plugs, and octane; are there any other concerns when cranking it past a 75hp shot? (given that all maintenance has been performed)


-josh

 

[SHO_OFF]

-When is the appropriate time to upgrade to an FPR given a 155lph fuel pump? A 75 shot or a 100 shot ?

-Minus fuel press, spark plugs, and octane; are there any other concerns when cranking it past a 75hp shot? (given that all maintenance has been performed)


-josh

Answer to Question #1, You are fine running a 75 shot with your standard Fuel Pump. The 155 is a nice "safety" though. You will need a FPR when you jump to the 100 shot though.

Answer to Question #2, Not quite sure. I believe you my may need to upgrade your Fuel Injectors. Main concern is watching your shifting so you aren't burning clutches and blowing tranny's!

 

[vortex2450]

Thanks,

Some more of the top of my head that I'm sure any N2O noob such as myself may have;

1. what's the best plumbing path from bottle to intake given a blow down and a purge line?

2. Do SHO owners have the option for an window switch (3000rpm-7000rpm for example) with any of the current, popular dry systems out there? Such as this.


thanks,

-Josh

 

[AREA 91]

I have been running a window switch for years.

 

[vortex2450]

I have been running a window switch for years.

What rpm range have you been staying within?

-josh

 

[sho'noff]

is nitrous safe for oxygen sensors?

 

[SHOspazz92]

is nitrous safe for oxygen sensors?

I have yet to burn one out due to Nitrous, have never heard of anyone else doing it here either.

-Sam

 

[SHOspazz92]

Answer to Question #1, You are fine running a 75 shot with your standard Fuel Pump. The 155 is a nice "safety" though. You will need a FPR when you jump to the 100 shot though.

Answer to Question #2, Not quite sure. I believe you my may need to upgrade your Fuel Injectors. Main concern is watching your shifting so you aren't burning clutches and blowing tranny's!

Not true. A FPR is not required for a 100 shot.

Also, the stock injectors will take a 100 shot perfectly fine.

-Sam

 

[vortex2450]

Not true. A FPR is not required for a 100 shot.

Also, the stock injectors will take a 100 shot perfectly fine.

-Sam

Thanks.

How about a 100shot on a considerably modified engine? (Bolt-ons galore)

-Josh