Hard to shift at high rpm

[Hvyleaf]

Long story short(ish) slightly embarrassed.
I was in 1st, clutch in, reved engine behind someone sleeping on a green light(went from green arrow to solid) car moved forward and I smelled clutch.

Was hard to get out of first for a moment, then it became hard to shift around 4k+

It’s an o’reily clutch, with a shosource rebuilt trans. maybe 3-4k on the new install. Shifted like butter before this.

I’ve tried adjusting the clutch cable for kicks, not sure I did it right, however the engagement point is a bit higher than before. It does not slip.
I had a shop do the install and drove it lightly for a good 500miles and had no issues, I always rev matched down shifts and have not launched it or done any burnouts.

Is there any chance there’s anything I can do before I have the clutch done again.

What I don’t understand is why the one moment of reving to under 6k for a second would cause an issue. My 93 had seen many 6500k clutch dumps before and during my ownership with no issues.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[Hvyleaf]

Is it worth changing the fluid in the transmission? I don’t see that being the case at this point.

 

[thunder1200]

Was the flywheel resurfaced /replaced when the new clutch was installed? If its glazed and worn, your clutch won't get the grip needed. (They have a relationship much like disk brake pads and the rotors) Was the throw out bearing replaced? These can loose **** /wear out over time and the clutch engagement and release can bind or even become crunchy.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I wonder how thick the flywheel is now. I'm sure a shop would have had it resurfaced, otherwise the clutch would probably judder. A new flywheel is 1.186" thick. Minimum thickness is 1.141" after which the TOB has to be so far away from the transmission that it can start to bind on the quill tube. A Blanchard grinder takes around 12 thou off on each resurface, so it can be resurfaced a maximum four times. It's quite possible that the shop didn't measure the thickness.

 

[RonPorter]

Definitely sounds like a clutch issue. FWIW, I've had the same when a PP strap broke.

 

[Hvyleaf]

From what I recall, the flywheel was replaced, I had a failure in the clutch before this that took the transmission out with it, the shop said they had to replace the flywheel. I’m not sure where they got it from.

The clutch kit came with a new TOB so I would think it was replaced.

What’s intriguing to me, is how such a seemingly small incident would cause such a failure. *sigh* I guess I’ll have to drive my toyota , haha . I don’t want to push my luck any further.

Thank you to everyone for the responses. Once I start my new job. I’ll have to have it taken care of, unless my uncle’s lift is open and is willing to assist me. . On the bright side, if shosource has the ceramic tob’s now I can throw that in .

 

[Dale Leonard]

Look closely at the cover on the front of your transmission. The ford place replace my clutch and pressure plate and they did not inspect anything. They did not install it correctly and it wore the cover that the throwout bearing slides on. This part wore and caused a clutch failure exactly like what you are experiencing.

 

[sdpatt]

If your initial story indicates that your car moved forward and you smelled clutch material burning, then this is most likely a throwout bearing failure, possibly in combination with a pressure plate or clutch disk failure. Do a test with the engine at idle and the transmission in neutral. Press the clutch, waiting several seconds for the main shaft to spin down and try to access reverse gear. If all you hear is a steady speed grinding on each gentle attempt it means that the clutch disk is not completely releasing from the flywheel.

The throwout bearing is usually the weakest link in the SHO clutch. However, I have also had a clutch disk fail when the friction material slung off the disk during a high RPM shift. Two clutch failures have resulted in me replacing the SHO's twice in the last few years. This is a job I do not want to have to do again. The 1st failure was due to a shop not remounting the flywheel guide pins after lathing the flywheel (last time Iet a shop replace my clutch). The pressure plate was not concentrically mounted on the flywheel, resulting in vibration during clutch release and eventually dislodging one if the pair of disk shock absorbing springs (see pics). The 2nd failure was due to the friction material separating (see pic) on a Sachs branded clutch at a 7,000 rpm 1-2 shift after less then a few thousand miles of wear (yes, my well-seasoned 458K-mile SHO sees frisky driving regularly). Stick with OEM Valeo or other known good suppliers.

 

[TankII]

Don't forget to change the Teflon throw out bearing shaft case bushings.

 

[Hvyleaf]

If your initial story indicates that your car moved forward and you smelled clutch material burning, then this is most likely a throwout bearing failure, possibly in combination with a pressure plate or clutch disk failure. Do a test with the engine at idle and the transmission in neutral. Press the clutch, waiting several seconds for the main shaft to spin down and try to access reverse gear. If all you hear is a steady speed grinding on each gentle attempt it means that the clutch disk is not completely releasing from the flywheel.

The throwout bearing is usually the weakest link in the SHO clutch. However, I have also had a clutch disk fail when the friction material slung off the disk during a high RPM shift. Two clutch failures have resulted in me replacing the SHO's twice in the last few years. This is a job I do not want to have to do again. The 1st failure was due to a shop not remounting the flywheel guide pins after lathing the flywheel (last time Iet a shop replace my clutch). The pressure plate was not concentrically mounted on the flywheel, resulting in vibration during clutch release and eventually dislodging one if the pair of disk shock absorbing springs (see pics). The 2nd failure was due to the friction material separating (see pic) on a Sachs branded clutch at a 7,000 rpm 1-2 shift after less then a few thousand miles of wear (yes, my well-seasoned 458K-mile SHO sees frisky driving regularly). Stick with OEM Valeo or other known good suppliers.

I did the reverse test, it went right into reverse without having to shift to 4th or 5th first. I had the owner of the shop test drive it with me and is going to look into what parts were used etc, and maybe take a look at the cable, which I think is fine.

I’m assuming it’s going to need to be replaced, I parked it for now. (Ooc interior lights decided to stay on, just disconnected negative for now , no time to inspect today)

I’ll look into the ceramic tob, and see what other clutch options there are, I don’t really need a high performance clutch, but if it’s better and not too expensive I’ll go that route… is it worth getting sho source flywheel as well?

I need to go through the car myself, located a small coolant leak near the thermostat, misses a little bit if I start up after shut down , until driven. Then today I hit the heat button by accident and the idle got funky and dropped low enough to cause the oil pressure light to flicker until shut off, had this happen once last year.


Sorry to ramble, I appreciate the input.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Only http:www.shonutperformance.com sells the Ceramic TOB, and Josh Teixeira doesn't currently have any. Another batch will be made sometime in the future by John Holowczak, but he is unable to get the raw materials because of supply chain issues.

If the flywheel is too thin per my previous post, the 17lb. flywheel from SHO Source (stock 21 lb.) is a great alternative.

 

[Hvyleaf]

Only http:www.shonutperformance.com sells the Ceramic TOB, and Josh Teixeira doesn't currently have any. Another batch will be made sometime in the future by John Holowczak, but he is unable to get the raw materials because of supply chain issues.

If the flywheel is too thin per my previous post, the 17lb. flywheel from SHO Source (stock 21 lb.) is a great alternative.

Thank you. I’ll check my invoice, however the flywheel was allegedly replaced. If not I’ll get the shosource one. Damn, I tried ordering a ceramic few months ago, was told there was an estimated 2 weeks. I guess I’m SOL there. No worries. Thanks again!

 

[luigisho]

Just get a solid oem style clutch replacement from Sachs, Valeo etc. THe extra $ parts don't really get you much for the price. I did about ever bolt on offered over the years. Good brakes and good suspension is all you really will notice as smiles per mile. You will have enough things break to keep your wallet busy.