I'm having an issue with a high speed vibration over 60mph. It's not bad, but noticeable. I was initially told by Discount Tire that I had a bent rim on the front, which they replaced, but that was not the issue. I've also noticed that when going up a hill around 30mph it also has a weird stutter/vibration. I've ordered a tube of shutter fix and will try that, but does anyone else have any ideas?
Vibration
- Thread starter Majestic
- Start date
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Christian
SHO Member
Check your engine cover/skidplate under the engine (the one you remove when performing an oil change). Any gap from being partially unfastened will cause buffeting at speed. In my case it was the same as yours (60mph) but got severe at 70mph.
So bad that I could visibly see the hood shaking. I had spent so much time looking for the cause - RoadForce wheel balancing, trying a different set of tires/wheels, shocks, etc. A matter of securing the skidplate with zip ties and all was good.
So bad that I could visibly see the hood shaking. I had spent so much time looking for the cause - RoadForce wheel balancing, trying a different set of tires/wheels, shocks, etc. A matter of securing the skidplate with zip ties and all was good.
hey Majestic could it be a weight on that rim? if I recall those balancers are only adjusting for certain rotations and if the weight got slapped on it could seem to come and go at exact speed ranges. I am assuming the 20" stock rims.
I don't think so. I had all four wheels rebalanced last week. It's also doing a little "chugging" going up hills at 25-30mph.
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
Have you checked the level and condition of fluid in the PTU? Do you have a scan tool that will let you monitor misfire counts in real time? It sounds like there's something that is not happy when under load.
-Rod
-Rod
PTU was serviced about 5k miles ago. Honestly, even if it's not transmission related, it's been at least 50k miles since I've changed the fluid, so that needs to be done anyway. I really should drill/tap the PTU to make servicing it easier.
Also, like I mentioned, if I'm going up a long hill, it sort of "chugs" unless I give it more gas. Then it's fine.
without experiencing that issue, I agree it sounded like it, and you reminded me, I need mine changed...
It was easier than changing the oil!
So I ordered some Red Line Shockproof and plan on servicing the PTU myself. I think I've located the vent hose and am concerned that the place I've been taking it to hasn't actually serviced it. The cap doesn't look like it's ever been removed.
Would a shop vac be sufficient to suck the fluid/paste out? I plan on extending the vent hose when I get to the point of servicing it. I suppose drilling/tapping it would be wise, but I haven't motivated myself to do that yet.
no I wouldnt use one, and here is why. that grease stinks to high holy ****, and a shop vac would be too strong and not controllable. You will on some level ruin the vacuum. here is my answer on the cheap, and cheaper than a vaccum:
I have never evacd or filled via the vent. I have no idea why people do that.
You want to remove the fill plug on the side, come in from the rear with a suction hose and work it down in there. Same when you fill it.
This isn't the exact one I have, but close to it so the hose sizes may not be what I have but should still work. Use that to evac the fluid.
Then this to fill it.
You want to remove the fill plug on the side, come in from the rear with a suction hose and work it down in there. Same when you fill it.
This isn't the exact one I have, but close to it so the hose sizes may not be what I have but should still work. Use that to evac the fluid.
Then this to fill it.
i believe some folks maybe early year models have no drain cap, no?
I also hate to say this but I'm def getting the model specific forum conundrum here and definitely for the SHO, the focus on the PTU is so over rated here.
If you've got basically a factory sealed ptu with 100k on it and you go to suck out the fluid, or drain it if you're that lucky, and it's still fluid, you're already ahead of the game here. Pick your fluid, and service it maybe, maybe every 30-50k if it's that worrisome.
No need to spend $20/qrt for fancy fluid. It's literally a box of gears and bearings.
I'm approaching 200k and have only sucked the fluid out 2x after I bought it @ 107k. There is tons of aluminum in the oil as always since the case is being eaten away by the idler. Aluminum is soft, no harm to the bearings or gears. Let her eat.
If you've got basically a factory sealed ptu with 100k on it and you go to suck out the fluid, or drain it if you're that lucky, and it's still fluid, you're already ahead of the game here. Pick your fluid, and service it maybe, maybe every 30-50k if it's that worrisome.
No need to spend $20/qrt for fancy fluid. It's literally a box of gears and bearings.
I'm approaching 200k and have only sucked the fluid out 2x after I bought it @ 107k. There is tons of aluminum in the oil as always since the case is being eaten away by the idler. Aluminum is soft, no harm to the bearings or gears. Let her eat.
I'm glad your experience differs from others. The shop that purports to have done this service 3 times now told me the first time it was almost paste, the second time they said it was "bone dry", and the last time it looked fine. I've developed trust issues with mechanics over the years and would prefer to make this a DIY job.
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