Hard starting problems

[jcostantino]

I've been dealing with a hard starting problem for a few months now. Starting the car involves either cranking five seconds for 2 to 3 times before the engine catches or holding the key for 10 seconds before the engine finally catches.

I doubt it's a crank sensor problem because it's fairly new and my car never stalls after it's been running. I also doubt it's a cam sensor problem since it always starts on the first crank but it takes a lot of cranking to get going. I also replaced the IAB with the newer version on a whim and that didn't do anything either.

I have replaced the vaccum line to the fuel pressure regulator because it was starting to split and was contributing to a minor idle problem that has since cleared up.

I cleared the codes after replacing the IAB and it seemed to be fine for about 4 days and then started to act up again.. I guess it could be either a sensor that's screwy or something with my fuel delivery.

Plugs, wires, iAB, CKP, CPS, fuel pump, head gaskets, ICM, all about 1 year old. The ignition control module is used off of a parts car because my brand new one was stolen..

One other symptom is that my Superchip doesn't work correctly when it's in.. it could be also related to fuel delivery but it seems more like throttle position.

Otherwise, the car runs fine.. it's just starting and the superchip that isn't right.

There is also a whistle like a vaccum leak but I can't track it down and that might have some bearing as well... this whistle might be a normal SHO thing but i don't have another one to compare it to.

Jeff

 

[projectSHO89]

Jeff,

I'd connect a fuel pressure guage to the rail and check your pressure.

You might have a clogged fuel filter, a weak fuel pump, or some other problem in the fuel delivery system.

A fuel pressure guage will give you the info needed to proceed in an orderly fashion. 40 bucks at AutoZone.

Steve

 

[jelloslug]

Does the tach work? If it does not work the cam sensor is bad.
If its a vaccum leak the idle should be high, check the vaccum lines to the secondaries (they run under the intake and if there messed up it would be hard to spot), and check the intake gasket.
When was the fuel filter last changed?

 

[jcostantino]

I forgot to mention the fuel filter was done a year ago too... I've been sort of suspecting the fuel pressure regulator on the engine but without a fuel pressure gauge I didn't want to just start changing parts. Gonna have to buy a FPG in the next week or so.

I'm going to check next time I start the car whether the tach moves or not but I'm pretty sure it does get to 200ish RPM when starting.

The vaccum lines are all in good shape as far as I can see. Unplugging the vac line from the intake to the black can (vac regulator?) gives no change on the secondaries so nothing's leaking, unplugging from the can to the secondaries lets them open so that's working, the hose to the fuel regulator is working since it's new and the hose to the purge solenoid seems to be OK as well.

Are there any other vac lines I should check? I'm really only aware of the ones on the diagram over the radiator.

I unplugged the vac line to the fuel regulator and the engine stumbled but didn't stall.. normal behavior?

Jeff

 

[SHOZ123]

You might have got a tank of bad gas that clogged up the filter. This just happen to me. I had to change the filter after 3 weeks.

 

[jcostantino]

Good point... I will look into at least borrowing a fuel pressure gauge and seeing what's at the fuel rail after the car's been sitting for a while.

Something I forgot to mention was that on occasion the car will start up so fast that I'll get a little knock from the engine.. other times it starts up just as it should after a couple revs.

Jeff

 

[jcostantino]

Started the engine and 5 seconds of cranking later it started.. the tach stays up around 200 rpm until it actually starts so I suspect the cam sensor is OK..

Next step is to see if I can find a fuel pressure gauge. I've seen a bunch of $20 ones for the Honda/Acura guys, could I just get one of those and mount it in the engine compartment?

Jeff

 

[Jr's Sho]

I'd get an Actron or one from an Autoparts store due to the adapter you'll need to fit the fuel rail. I bought a used Actron fuel gauge and had to borrow the adapter that comes with a new gauge. You should get about 40psi at idle. I have the same problem you do. Someones it takes a while to start up and sometimes it doesn't.

 

[SHOtimer]

I have the same issue with my 95 ATX (132k) sometimes it will start on a dime, and others it will crank awhile and then slowly start to fire and other times it crank a little and start or crank a long time and start. All while the fuel pump is making noise. New CPS, and camshaft sensor..so I also am suffering from this, hope we can fix it

 

[SHOtimer]

I have been utilizing the search function, and find that we are prolly dealling with a bad fuel pump/ fuel return line check valve. From reading dozens of post just like this one they all point to that....Is now on my to do list