MaDDaDDaM,
If you are replacing the outer CV joint and boots you do not have to pull the axels out of the trans. It is a little more difficult to do it this way, but then you do not have to deal with the trans fluid mess.
Warning: DO NOT PULL BOTH AXELS OUT OF THE TRANS AT THE SAME TIME. DO ONE AT A TIME so that at least one axel is in the trans at all times.
If you are interested I'll post the "how to".
You will need the crimping tool used to crimp the band that holds the boot to the joint. As stated above you will need NEW pinch bolts and new pinch bolt nuts for the steering knuckle to ball joint connection (torque 40 to 55 ft lbs).
Then you will need new axel nuts, These nuts, ie pinch bolt and axel nuts, are "lock" type nuts and are good for one use only.
I would plan on replacing the tie-rod end nuts (torque 23 to 25 ft lbs.) and cotter pins, or at the very least the cotter pins. It is a safety issue and VERY cheap insurance ($0.20 if that)
If you decide to pull the axels you should get new axel seals for the trans (where the axels go into the trans). If there is any sign of these seals leaking, then it would be a good idea to pull the axels and replace them. There is a tool used to pry the seals out but you can do a search and use SDPATT's method!
I find it easier to push the lower control arm down, in order to get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle, with a small bottle jack.
I put the top of the jack against the lip of the inner fender well, and the bottom of the jack against the lower control arm where it is connected to the strut (stablizer bar). Protect the surfaces with a small piece of wood.
I find this a lot easier than using a pry bar to pry down on the lower control arm.
The new half shafts should have a new "cir-clip" for the outer CV joint. If it does not get new ones. This is another fastener that should never be reused.
DO NOT distort it putting it on the axel. It is "spring" steel and will be flexible enough to get on the axel and into its groove, but do not over-stretch it.
When you go to remove the outer joint, after cutting away the old boot, push the CV joint in as far as it will go (not very far). Then gently pull out on it until you feel it stop against the circlip.
Set a block of wood against the back edge of the CV joint (this will distribute the force evenly)while holding the joint straight in line with the axel, and SMACK IT WITH A HAMMER.
It helps a whole lot to have someone else hold the axel while you hold the CV joint, wood, and hammer. Do you have a lovely assistant?
This should "pop" the CV joint over the "cir-clip" and off of the axel. If you have never done this before it may take a couple of tries.
The guys above have you pretty well covered, but I thought a little more might help if this is your first time doing this.
If I think of anything else that might help I'll post it. rangerj
