GTP tubular control arms

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Toolman

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Yeah, but true road courses are where it's at, not parking lot cones:D j/k I did not know about the SCCA rules. I guess what they don't know won't hurt them.
 

jelloyacket

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My rear wheels have way too much negative camber, especially after installation of Eibachs. Will the GTP arms allow me to dial it back into spec? Also, when I drive to school every year, I load the car up with a ton of stuff (computer, bass guitar gear, clothes, etc.), and that compresses the rear suspension, making the camber problem even worse. Will the GTP arms allow me to easily dial in even less camber for my yearly trip to and from school, then bring it back to normal spec for regular driving? Thanks.
 

pbshow

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Do you still have to trim the rods for the Gen IIs? If so, how much? Some say that you only need to trim the bars for the GenIs. A little help please?

Paul
squint
 

Todd TCE

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There is no 'trimming' of any kind needed to fit mine, however there are no pics of links to them up here anymore. Bolt them on and go. And I'd consider them 'all weather' in application.
 

drivinhard

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I've got them on my 89 and 92, never had to "trim" either of them. Even with the 89 I could adjust the arms shorter than stock without cutting them.
 

biker889

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me and my brother were thinking about designing and constructing tubular rear adjustable arms for the sho, what do you guys think? i could sell them for around $150
 

Todd TCE

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Uh huh. You get what you pay for. Then again if your labor is reeeally cheap....bring 'em on. My last set is on the shelf and when gone I won't be making any more. And certainly not for $150!
 

pbshow

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Ok, I've got the GTP arms installed, and they are a direct bolt-on, but my question is what do I do with the rear brake pressure control valve arm? Since the arm was mounted to the stock control arm, now it just swings in the breeze. Can I remove the arm and leave the valve installed? Will my brake control change? Suggestions?

Thanks,

Paul
1993 ATX thumbs_u
 

twr

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You either need to modify the valves or buy plugs from SHONUT. With the arm swinging in the air, you have no rear braking. As long as your ABS is working, you'll have no problem with the full flow to the rear brakes.

<small>[ August 28, 2002, 05:44 PM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>
 

DeaconBlue

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That's what I did. Full fluid flow to the rear calipers plus the 11.6" rear brake upgrade yields some very impressive dry braking performance. In the wet, well thank goodness for ABS.

<small>[ August 29, 2002, 05:42 PM: Message edited by: DeaconBlue ]</small>
 

GASHOGUY

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Thought I'd post these pics that W.C. Lewis took of my car at Summit Point. They are of the adjustable aluminum control arms from FPS.
summit%20012.JPG
summit%20013.JPG
 

ShoGuy93

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I was wanting to know the same thing i just got my intrax and tokico's on (well a few months ago.) And i have alot of negtive chamber in the rear... Will the tublar controll arms fix my problem and bring the rear into speck? Really would like to know. O and is the sho shops any good???? I know the price is high But...
 

twr

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Yes they are, somebody else mentioned that in another post. You can get the arms for a little over $200 bucks for gmpartsdirect.com and get the washers and sleeves from josh for $44 bucks and save yourself from pay $299 or more for the ones on Ebay.
 

SHOZ123

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yes apparently GM is consoldating parts. That is a Buick number I think. Any way I just got that info from GMPartsDirect this week.
 

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