GTP tubular control arms

[AutoXSHO]

Just an update here on the GTP arms.

I talked with Nick at SHOnut performance, and the GTP arms will fit the SHO, but you need the reducing sleeves (that they sell on their web site. The part number is SNP-GTPRS and the price is $42.82. It comes with all the sleeves and washers needed to do the job, all you need is the GTP arms which are pretty cheap. Definitely under $100 for enough arms to do a SHO.

Remember to get the rearward arms, which have the adjustment sleeves.

Just a lower priced alternative to the ones Zach is selling custom-made. Someone mentioned the GTP arms are not aluminum. That is probably true, but if you're just looking for rear adjustability, this is the cheaper way to go.

John V


------------------
95 MTX with mods.

 

[1slickRED89]

Autox, thanks for the info. i relly could use some since my 8 ajustable eccentrics are about maxed right now. what years specifically poseses the correct parts? there are about 20 good junk yards close to me.

i don't think i'll pay shonut $50 for some wahers and sleeves that i could get at TSC for pennies though.

Corey
89SHO

 

[AutoXSHO]

Knowing the guys at SHOnut, if it was trivial to get the sleeves/washers I imagine they would charge a trivial price for them. Though if you can find or make the parts elsewhere (a man after my own heart), by all means do it. It should be very apparent what you need once you get the arms in your hands.

I believe the 96-99 Grand prix or GTP will have the arms you're looking for.

John V

 

[1slickRED89]

AutoX, thanks again. unfortunatly, i've had poor luck with the shonut. he gave me no warning before his extendend two week break when i had my tranny in a few 1000 peices. cost me a small fortune to get the parts at the dealer.


Corey
89SHO

 

[Prophet78]

Where did you pick up the arms at, how much and what is the part number. Is the hardware you get from SHONut easy to make or find around the shop?
Also, how many arms to you need? Just two?

If you could give me a figure on the cost of this upgrade it would be great!

 

[MeShoHorny]

Thanx for the info John! I would think that one would need 4 arms(2 on each side).
Where did you get the figure of $100 for GTP/GP control arms? Are these from a J/Y or a dealer?

 

[AutoXSHO]

J-

You need four arms. The arms are part number ... (checking log here) They are GM p/n 10262699 and are $67.08 list price each. Yeah, that's a lot but getting them out of a junked car is a possiblity. I worry a bit about the rust but you should be able to check 'em out. Benefit on the SHO is that they need to be shortened (using the adjuster) to fit on a SHO - making them even stiffer laterally.

The kits they sell for the hardware are very nice - I helped DeaconBlue install his arms a while back. They give you the sleeves you need, which are a specific size, in addition to the necessary washers. The washers are exactly the same size as the factory washer for the outboard mouting of the stock rear control arm, but they are an odd size. i.e. you can get them from Ford or SHOnut but probably not at McMaster Carr.

The kits are worth the price IMHO. The arms - they are pricey but they are nicely constructed. I don't trust the ball-end RCAs that people were hawking on this board a while back due to the metal on metal design. These are nice with a bare minimum of rubber isolation, big welded ends and hefty solid bar stock and aluminum adjusters.

Hope this helps.

John V

 

[Scott Peters]

does anyone have any pictures to share of these control arms, maybe what they look like on the car and what was involved in the instalation? I have a set of the moog bushings but haven't installed them yet. This sounds like a better option. I would also see a few shots of the GM strut braces folks are disscusing.
Thanks from a newbie to this list.
95ATX for about three years....

 

[Blue95ATX]

Why would I want these control arms? Im not to much in suspension type stuff? Thanks thumbs_u

 

[AutoXSHO]

If only I had remembered the digicam when I helped with the install.

To summarize, they look slick, they look factory, they look good. Better yet they work well, and you have much more adjustability to the rear suspension. Toe and camber. Why would you want them? If you don't know, you probably don't want them. Autocrossing, road racing, improving the rear end stiffness, replacing arms with worn out bushings: these are all benefits.

John V

 

[nails24]

Pics from previous discussion:

http://www.shoforum.com/ubb/Forum21/HTML/000031.html

Chad L
92 red mtx

 

[MeShoHorny]

nails24:
Pics from previous discussion:

http://www.shoforum.com/ubb/Forum21/HTML/000031.html

Chad L
92 red mtx

I'll give ya an "A" for effort but those are not rear control arms by far. They are Strut Tower Braces.

Click here if ya want to see the custom tubular arms

 

[Prophet78]

Ok, so what year can we pull them from? Do they have to be GTP, can they be GT or SE? Let me know, I am looking into this.

As an alternative you can buy another stock SHO arm and flip it to the other side to get your alignment right. That is what I may be doing for now.

-Jeremy-

 

[Toolman]

Just a note, the link MeSHO has for the arms are NOT the GTP arms, but rather the Zach Leahy custom arms for $275. I have a set and they are beautiful. Even if the GTP arms were free, I don't think I could stand putting a GTP part on my car

 

[DeaconBlue]

As John V. stated

"What you need is four (4) GM p/n 10262699 lateral links (list price $67.08 each),one (1) SHO Nut Performance installation kit (p/n SNP-GTPRS and the price is $42.82. It comes with all the sleeves and washers needed to do the job) and a one (1) H-box reinforcing unit from Nook, the SHO Shop and/or a few other vendors (highly recommended). These steel tubular trailing arms (or lateral links as GM calls them) were OE on Buick '97-02 Century, '98-02 Regal, Chevy '95-99 Lumina, '00-02 Impala and '95-02 Monte Carlo, Olds '98-02 Intrigue as well as the Pontiac '97-02 Grand Prix. They weigh the same 2.9 lbs each as the stock stamped Ford units but are much stiffer. The salvage yards want about $35 a piece for them, but the threads on the adjustment turn buckle can be frozen or munged up pretty bad on an car with any amount of mileage. Plus since the threads are steel against aluminum, they can be galled up pretty bad as well. It's a pretty easy swap as long as the nuts and bolts aren't rusted all the ****."

 

[AutoXSHO]

The Zach Leahy bars are nice for a non-street driven SHO. Street driven cars, and ones that see any rain/salt/dirt/snow should use the GTP arms.

John V

 

[94shoboy]

john v:: zach's arms are coated, zink i believe, so they should be fine for street use.

 

[Toolman]

It doesn't take anything to spray a coat of clear on the arms. I am polishing mine (damn they look good) and spraying a coat of clear on them. I don't believe they come coated in any way.

 

[DeaconBlue]

It has nothing to do with the coatings finishes or painting.

Zach's aluminum tubular trailing arms use spherical rod ends at both the hub and H-box ends. Read metal-to-metal contact, no isolation what so ever. Any and every bit of input from the road will be transfered directly into the uni-body with no rubber or poly bushings to help isolation any harshness, vibration or noise.

That's fine for the race track but not the way to go IMHO for the street. Plus you darn well better install a H-brace reinforcement member in the H-box or you will rip it up with enough miles and/or chuck holes, rail road tracks, frost heaved joints, etc...

 

[AutoXSHO]

Oh, and never mind that they are illegal for any SCCA street autocross classes due to the solid rod ends. May not be a concern for anyone except me and one other guy on this forum though.

John V