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SonicRiot

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DAH! :doh: Electrical gremlins have infilltrated my car's wiring system!

Anyone know how to full field the stock '91 Alternator? Can't find the procedure...

Here's the scenario:

-Randomly stalls. NOT a PIP or CPS, the ignition system tests fine. It is unrelated to the engine itself as far as I can see.
-Car feels sluggish and this feeling is backed by many recent defeats. I was dusted, and I mean DUSTED by a bone stock 'Stang GT convertible on the highway!
-Headlights, interior lights, dash, HVAC display, and outside keypad lights flicker while car is running. Turning on multiple lights makes the scenario worse and makes the idle drop. Unlocking the car from the keypad while it's running causes the car to almost stall!
-Battery is at full charge at all times (12.6V)
-The car won't even start if the headlights are on during cranking. The parking lights will cause the same problem when I start the car cold.
-Turning the ignition to accessories and not starting the car will cause the lights to go very dim after several seconds and even turn off. This is just interior lights, now...
-The car will occasionally stall for a split second, the airbag idiot light will illuminate for a second and the car will sputter back to life like nothing happened. Sometimes the lamp out light illuminates, I suspect this is due to the super dim headlights and flickering.



So alternator, anyone? Am I on the right track? Any suggestions? I'm usually pretty good at electrical diagnosis, but it's friggen cold and a mass electrical problem like this is never easy. :bonk:

I do want to replace the wiring harness and route new, larger, central grounds. Maybe this is a good time...

Thanks.



EDIT: BTW, there is only 12.6V (battery voltage) at the battery terminals while the car is idling.
 

SHOZ123

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At 1500 rpm and the lights and heater fan on you should have over 14v at the battery.
 

k_mesaros

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Take it to your local auto parts store. They will test the voltage and amperage of your battery BEFORE you take anything apart. They will then test your starter amp draw, and the output of your alternator. Why guess and start pulling crap apart? These diagnostic proceedures are FREE at most auto parts stores, and will save a lot of time and frustration.

Kevin
 

SonicRiot

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I've already tested all of that, minus the alternator. I can full field it with a paper clip or jumper wire to see if the regulator is bad, but I can't remember which terminals I need!

I wonder why SHOtimes and autozone don't have this procedure...

Time to break out the big electrical book from a year ago.
 

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