Getting Her Ready

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

I haven't explained correclty my idea.

I think there are 2 clear bottles : Ford one and the Dorman one.

If you're willing to change your bottle for a clear one (thougher as some said over time), be aware that the Dorman one could not takes the revised Ford bottle cap (2010+) which is also stronger and more reliable (his spring is bigger).

Ford clear bottle (like ones on Gen 4 Taurus) + Ford 2010+ revised bottle cap his the best way to go.

(Some Gen 4 Taurus with clear bottle also had the low coolant sensor.)

 

[Funmart6]

Okay thanks for the info.

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[Funmart6]

Update: She's ready to be picked up. I just now got off the phone with the transmission shop and the car is ready. I will pick it up in the morning when I have more time.
They told me the car ran good, it does have a misfire when it warms on up they said, I know it could use some new coils and plugs. They said other than that, the engine ran good and the transmission shifts good.
They replaced a small coolant hose on the backside of the engine that had dry rotted and was leaking and apparently there were a couple of bolts in the subframe that had been cross threaded and they fixed that also.
They said that since the car has been sitting for so long, I shouldn't try to drive it too far until I know things are going to work okay. So, I pick her up tomorrow morning. Yay!!!

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[SM105K]

It's like Christmas morning.....

 

[stephen newberg]

Wishing you good luck with it.

pax, smn

 

[Funmart6]

She's back home!!! She's got a little misfire when just cruising and under a load but get on it and she goes like crazy, smooth!!! The new transmission shifts so nice, it's good to be able to drive this car once again. Got a few things to do to get her back it top shape, but won't take much.

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[SM105K]

You are making me want a 3rd Gen.

 

[Funmart6]

Haven't even really cleaned her up yet but here are some new pics.

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[Funmart6]

In this photo you can see how the dash pad popped up, I think with a little heat and some strong adhesive, I may be able to repair this.

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[luigisho]

Holy cow. That looks terrible. First time I've seen this. Age is rough on these materials. Good luck. I hope you can get it repaired.
Do you think you can get enough even pressure on it with the dash still in the car?

 

[Funmart6]

Yes. It looks worse in the pic, the area is back far enough from the windshield that I can get something heavy up there to force it all back down. I figure heat it up a little to make it more pliable, adhesive and weight/force to hold all in place. I have just the thing for weights, old rotors in their boxes should be heavy enough. Lol.

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[luigisho]

That'll push it down for sure. I was thinking maybe it needed to go down and forward. Hopefully not

 

[sperold]

If the windshield ever has to come out, that would be a good time to fix that issue.

I would give some consideration to using some kind of strip, and use exposed screws to draw the dash cover down, and leave it in place.
It would take some detective work to find a firm but appealing strip, and look for tabs or whatever on the body to anchor the fasteners.

It is kind of radical, but I have never had much luck gluing things down and having them stay in place.

Nice car, that "symphony of ovals" looks better now than it did in 1996.

 

[stephen newberg]

Looks like your engine cover was painted? Or did any of them come that way. Mine is sliver rather than dark like that, but I have the same black exterior and grey interior.

pax, smn

 

[Funmart6]

I painted the engine cover many years ago, also painted the wiring harness cover that runs alongside the engine cover. I wanted the intake runners to stand out more, that's why I painted it.

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[Funmart6]

So...this morning I moved the car into the sun a bit so that the dash pad can naturally warm up. I then took the boxes of brake rotors and was able to wedge them between the pad and the windshield and the pad flattened out pretty nicely. I will leave it like that for a few days and see if this will kind of "re-train" the material to go back to where it is supposed to be. If this works, then I will be able to peel the pad back up, apply adhesive, and then put the weights back on the pad for a couple of more days to insure a good bond, only time will tell.

Other Update:
The fuel gauge is still showing empty although the tank is full, I'm thinking a sending unit replacement is in the near future. The only videos I have seen show replacing the whole assembly containing the fuel pump and all, but I dont need to replace my fuel pump, can the sending unit be replaced alone, or will I have to replace the whole assembly???

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[gamefanatic]

What's that loose connector going to at the fuse box in the engine bay?

 

[Funmart6]

What's that loose connector going to at the fuse box in the engine bay?

Wow, I hadn't noticed that, it goes to the fog/driving lights I added years ago, but I disconnected them and forgot about connecting them back up. It actually connects to the battery.

 

[Funmart6]

Does anyone know if the fuel gauge sending unit can be replaced without having to change out the whole fuel pump assembly?

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[sperold]

It is not available through the easy sources, as RockAuto does not list a "fuel level sensor" separately.

It is a conventional "float on a stick" design. The float rotates a shaft coming out of the sensor, sort of like a toilet tank float.

Take it out, maybe the float fell of the stick, or something simple.

Barring that (Rockauto again), you can get a Brute Power fuel pump assembly for under $15.00.
You could look into putting your proven high volume pump into this assembly, which will give you back your fuel gauge.

Best of luck.