Gen II MTX Throttle Cable alternatives

[SHO13]

Hope this helps someone.

My stock 95 MTX throttle cable needs to be replaced (sticking), on the cable it is marked F3DC 9A758-DF 124 T4.

I ordered a replacement from a SHO vendor but I believe I received the wrong part. When I installed it, the cable was about 1/2 inch too long. After reading this thread I compared P/N's. The replacement was marked F3DC 9A758-BH 137 T3. I believe it was pulled from an ATX.

Why do I bring this up? I believe the 124 and 137 are the milimeters of cable that extend beyond the cable housing. The cable housings are identical in length, but the cable lengths are different coming out of the housing (approximately 12-15 mm)- hard to get an exact measurement without cutting the cable. Anyways, I believe the 93/95 ATX cable isn't a good choice to swap with the MTX. When installed, the pedal is lower than before and when pressed all the way, I only get about 1/2 open throttle.

Both cable strands look to be in good condition, not frayed and I can't imagine one getting stretched out that far without breaking.

Right or wrong, the Ford/Helms manual says NOT to **** the throttle cable as it is not serviceable. I did and it helped out, but you really need to take it out to clean/**** it up. It'll do till I get it replaced with a good used one.

SHO13

 

[SHO13]

I think lubing should only be done with some very thin oil with a very low pour point. The clearances are a little tight between the cable sheath and cable.

Depending on what you use, lithium grease, WD-40, oil, Mobil 1, etc, I can see where there is potential for catastrophic problems in a cold (sub zero) environment. I really think it could bind up and leave you with a stuck open throttle if your **** froze up.

Again, the Ford/Helms manual says not to **** the cable (probably for safety reasons).:sun:

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I've directly compared several Gen II cables from both ATX and MTX SHOs, and so far they've all been the same length - both the cable housing and the braided steel cable itself. The only difference has been in the length and location of the protective insulation on the outside of the cable housing.

The part numbers you listed from the two cables are engineering part numbers. If I remember tomorrow, I'll try to find out what the significance of the last five digits is/are.


Another reason for not lubing the cable, is that any lubricant is going to increase the likelihood of trapping debris (dust, fine sand, etc.) inside the cable which will accelerate cable-wear . . . .

 

[SHO13]

Storm Chaser,

Hopefully these pics show up. I'm really curious on what you come up with on the engineering numbers.

The cable lengths were different and I'd be really surpised if the cable stretched that much. The cable looks good.

The pics were taken with the cable fully collapsed at either end (no slack). One of the pics was in a vice (tightened just enough to maintain a grip). I pulled the housing fully up on the other end.

Do you have any other cables lying around? What kind of other numbers are on them.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

It appears to me that the steel-cable portion of the two throttle cables are the same length.

Looking at images #3, then #2, it appears that the throttle body end of the cables are affixed in the vise at the same depth (#3) and that when both cables are extended upward, that the throttle pedal end (#2) of the cables are the same distance above the vise (ie. the same length).

I'll try to remember to check the two spares I have with me tomorrow.

 

[SHO13]

My bad, I should have clarified the pics more.

The first two pics (cable 3 & 4) were taken at the same time. The ends were free hanging (not in the vise), actually I was pulling on the ends to make them straight as possible. The extra distance between the housings was also evident at the bottom end (out of view).

The other pic (cable 1) was taken with the ends in a vise and I was pulling up on the housings to bottom them out. This was to show the extra cable that was available to the throttle body. Since the throttle body mounting point is fixed, any extra cable just makes it loose. I was only getting 1/2 throttle (if that).

Make sense?

I installed my old cable after cleaning it up. I'll be good to go for a while. I'm more curious than anything right now if there is a difference in the cables or not.

Thanks:wave:

 

[1995SHO9]

I just got one from a member on here for 20 bucks shipped.

 

[smokin joe]

Well I hope we can figure something out because I have the same issue, frayed where it emerges from the cable housing

 

[chevrolet]

Ther is a 90' at at the U-pull-it in east Charlotte NC on Tryon blvd. goggle them. it only cost a buck to get in. The trans is out. There is one down the line with a police grill.

 

[chevrolet]

This cable assembly would be exstreamly difficult to fabricate and this car had a good trans that I bought for $99. It could be difficult to find these cables used and you can only find them used. I looked at the shift cables and they were not cut. They looked good. this car had 138,000mi on it and it was white. They crush these cars periodically and time would be of the essense because I was there 2 monthes ago. Of course making the rod shifter mod is more labor but an option. The cable shifter works fine contrary to opinions.

 

[AREA 91]

Ther is a 90' at at the U-pull-it in east Charlotte NC on Tryon blvd. goggle them. it only cost a buck to get in. The trans is out. There is one down the line with a police grill.

GRAB THE POLICE GRILL!!!! I'll buy it.