fwd problems

[S Enriquez]

I'm getting a shiny spot on my manifold cover.. I figure it's a mount, how hard is it to replace these things..kragen has them for 40 bucks or something are they worth it? Also, my d/s cv boot needs to be replaced, anyone know of a good quality unit to replace it with? One last thing, anyone have a quick procedure on how to get the cv shaft out with abs and an mtx? Any tricks? thanks

 

[twr]

I'm quessing MTX. MTX mounts are a Ford part but some parts stores can special order them from Ford. Get a manual for the car - ABS doesn't factor into removing the CV shaft.

<small>[ July 08, 2003, 01:42 PM: Message edited by: twr ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

To replace the front mount you will need to drain the radiator, remove the wheel, the fender splash shield, the lower radiator hose, disconnect the Y-pipe ****** bolts, the forward engine roll damper at the front mount and support the engine from the edge of the pan with a thick block of wood between the jack and the pan. Remove the nut that holds the mount to the subframe and the two bolts that secure the upper mount bracket to the A/C compressor bracket.

I have found it easier to remove the mount from the wheel well rather than from below. It depends on how high you are willing to jack the engine. I prefer to move it as little as possible if the other mounts are still attached.

I have not been able to find the SHO motor mounts through any manufacturer other than Ford. They may be modified and sold through other outlets, but I don't believe that an aftermarket supplier has tooled up for the SHO mounts. Several auto parts stores and suppliers list parts for the SHO, but none ahve been found to be the correct mounts. Can anyone refute that?

 

[S Enriquez]

Scott,

How do i replace the rear mount, if that mount is the bad one that is giving me the shiny spot on my intake manifold? Is that one harder or do I have to lift the whole engine?

Thanks

 

[rangerj]

S E,

I'll take on your CV boot replacement question. I will assume you are talking about the outer joint.

If your boot has been torn for any length of time the dirt and water that gets in the joint may have ruined the joint, so consider replacing the joint. (raxels.com)Right SHOJAUN?

Remove the axel nut with a 30mm socket with the car on the ground and in gear. It is a lock nut and will resist being removed. It is also on with about 200 ft. lbs. of torque, and will take a 1/2 inch breaker bar, and maybe a piece of pipe as an extension of the bar, to get it loose.

Loosen the lug nuts, then put the car up on jack stands and remove the wheel. Remove the brake caliper from the disk and suspend it from the strut. Remove the disk.

Remove the "pinch" bolt that locks the ball joint stud in the steering knuckle. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Remove the bolt that holds the strut to the steering knuckle. You may have to heat it.

Pry down on the lower control arm, or use a bottle jack placed on the lower control arm at the stablizer bar and the top of the jack at the inner fender well lip. Use pieces of wood to protect the control arm and the fender well lip.

When the ball joint stud is out of the steering knuckle you can pull out on the strut. Tap the axel in toward the trans to push it out of the hub. Protect the axel threads with the axel nut, it will be replaced at the end.

Now, if you want to replace the whole axel put a pan under the trans to catch the fluid as the axel comes out. "Pop" the axel out of the trans by putting a pry bar between the trans and the inner c/v joint.

Remember the trans is aluminum, so keep this in mind. A slide hammer type puller can also be used to pull the axel.

If all you want to replace is the outer c/v joint, or the boot, the the following is a way to do that WITHOUT pulling the entire axel.

With the axel free of the steering knuckle, and the boot removed (cut away), have a lovely assistant (or budy) hold the axel with some inward pressure. The object is to NOT have the axel come out of the trans.

Then you hold the outer joint so that it is straight in line with the axel. Place a block of wood behind the edge of the c/v joint and give it a few good smacks. It will "pop" off the axel.

The new boot can then be put on the axel with a new "small" metal clamping ring. It takes a special tool to "crimp" the metal ring. The tool is not expensive and is available at most parts stores. Auto Zone may even "loan" these tools.

Next, The old c/v joint should be cleaned thoroughly if it is to be reused, and about 1/3 of the grease that comes with the new boot is applied to the joint. The other 2/3 goes in the new boot.

"Pop" on the outer joint to the axel (again protect the threads with the old nut). The new boot kit should have included a new "circlip". It is a metal ring that is on the axel in a groove. It provides resistance to the joint comming off. Replace this "circlip" before installing the joint.

Once the joint is in place set the boot on the c/v joint and crimp on the new large metal band.

You may be able to do this without removing the steering knuckle, but it is easier with the knuckle out of the way.

REPLACE the pinch bolt and its nut. replace the cotter pin on the tie rod end. Replace the axel nut. Torque all nuts and bolts to specification.

Consider replacing the wheel bearing and hub if they have 75k or more on them.

Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[S Enriquez]

Thanks Rangerj, i called raxles - good deal.