Fuel Pump Update?? Do I have issues...?

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boat

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After much pain and frustration we got the fuel pump put in yesterday, finishing up around 1130 pm. The tank strap bolts broke off at the heads. We used a temp fix (bolts, large washers, and nuts), to be replaced with proper clips and bolts later in the week.

I went to go start it this morning to go to work, and I turned the key, and it sputtered and did not start on the first turn like usual. So I pumped the pedal a little bit and it started but acted like it was going to die, so I held the pedal at around 1500-2000 rpm, let off after about 20-30 seconds, and she dropped to 500 rpm then back up to around 700 and stayed idling.

What is happening, why did it do that this morning??

Is there a chance we didn't get the fuel lines hooked back up correctly? Or would it even be running if that was the case?

I will say this, the white thing that is to the right of the fuel pump and sending unit, it broke. We used some epoxy to temporarily reuse that part. Could that be causing that difficulty starting. Once it is running it seems fine, except for when I give it a blast off the line, then it stumbles and doesn't quite make it to 6500-7000 rpm. Then runs fine. Maybe RCM didn't send my the right fuel pump for the SHO. hmmm?

Any help is welcome, thanks
 
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bubba

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Hey boat when was the last time your o2's where changed? That might be some of the problem, on the take off. as for it not starting.:shrug:
 

boat

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I just went out to start it, same thing as this morning when I left for work. Didn't want to start. I had to pump the pedal, and turning the key/starter like we were last night... and it finally started and once it got the fuel from the pump it stayed running. It seems like it won't hold fuel pressure after the car is shut off, but fine while running. :shrug: :braincramp:

As far as the o2's, the PO replaced them...
 

techi14

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check your fuel pressure. Should be around 38psi if not mistaken. And usually when you try to start a sho and apply the gas pedal it WONT start.
 

boat

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The plan is to press on the Schrader valve at lunch see if any gas squirts out. Then go to Advance Auto Parts and check the fuel pressure. I think I may be loosing pressure where we had to epoxy that piece back together, going to order that piece too...
 

projectSHO89

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1. QUIT pumping the pedal. This is not a carbuerated engine and you're only screwing with what the computer is trying to do.

2. O2 sensors are ignored by the computer and have zero relevance when starting the engine.

Squirting fuel pressure from the Schraeder valve only tells you you have fuel at the rail and it is under some pressure. A fuel pressure gauge is what you need at this point. The system needs around 30 psi or more (at a minimum) to be able to start the engine. Preferably, you'd like to see at least 35-45 psi when the pump primes.

Steve
 
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boat

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Does it take a little while for things to get back to normal? Everyone I have spoken to, says well it should be fine after you get it started the first time. My bosses boss said that I need to get all the air out of the supply line with the Schrader valve.

My boss said it has nothing to do with the computer... somehow, I am not sure he is right...



1. QUIT pumping the pedal. This is not a carbuerated engine and you're only screwing with what the computer is trying to do.

2. O2 sensors are ignored by the computer and have zero relevance when starting the engine.

Squirting fuel pressure from the Schraeder valve only tells you you have fuel at the rail and it is under some pressure. A fuel pressure gauge is what you need at this point. The system needs around 30 psi or more (at a minimum) to be able to start the engine. Preferably, you'd like to see at least 35-45 psi when the pump primes.

Steve
 

boat

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PLEASE HELP!!Fuel Check valve...KOEO codes 176 189

I apologize for the small pics, that is all I am allowed to put in as attachments. My photobucket thing is not accessable right now for some reason. Well anyway..

View attachment 388 View attachment 389 Click on these and they will get bigger...

On Sunday we replaced my fuel pump. When disconnecting hoses from the tank the fuel check valve was broken. It is that white thing to the left of the fuel sender unit in the first pic, and then in the hands of bubba1492, mine, broken being held together. In an attempt for a quick fix b/c nothing was open at 830pm on a Sunday night, epoxied it back together. I have been experiencing some strange symptoms with my SHO.

It has had a hard time starting, it was running really bad earlier in the evening when I went to Advance to get the fuel pressure checked, and I was rudely informed they don't do that there, but I could buy a gauge for $40.00.

How it was running bad was when I would give it gas it would just hesitate like crazy @ 1500 rpm and going like 10mph, chugging & having a real hard time getting up to speed.

I ran the codes from the KOEO test and got a 176 code ((M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO22SSS - Fuel control) and a 189 ((M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control). For the KOER test got a 225 code ((R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS).

NOW, would that fuel check valve if it had a hole in it, would it bring up those codes, run like crap, and have difficulty starting??

The only thing that changed was that we replaced was the fuel pump in the tank and we glued back together the fuel check valve. The best I can figure is that valve has a leak in it that didn't get covered by the epoxy. Ford tells me they are discontinued. My feeling is, if that check valve is replaced it would take care of the problem...

I am sorry for the length, I tried to make this as detailed as possible.

Does anyone have a fuel check valve they can send to me?? I would be willing to pay for it with shipping?
Can someone speak to this please???
 

Storm-Chaser

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Contact goalieman (look in the St. Louis SHO forum), as he had a problem with the fuel check valve and can fill-you-in on his symptoms.


:burnout:
 

projectSHO89

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It takes only a couple of key cycles to purge the air from the system, assuming that piece you broke (no clue what you're describing) isn't causing either a supply or return problem. There is no need to use the Schraeder valve to purge air.

Where is the fuel pressure reading?????

Steve
 

projectSHO89

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Please do not scatter multiple threads relating to the same issue throughout the forum.

Threads merged.

That white piece on the top of the fuel tank has nothing to do with fuel delivery or return. It is part of the evaporative emissions system and has no bearing on the operation of the engine. It is not a "fuel check valve".

Steve
 
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boat

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There is a picture of that valve (white piece), in the thread you merged. It goes on the tank, seperate from the fuel sender unit. Might even be called a vapor valve.

I don't have fuel pressure gauge. Advance does not have one they loan out to measure fuel pressure.

When I push the pedal down to half way to get the secondaries to open, it just boggs at 3k rpm and has a hard time getting through that range.

?????

It takes only a couple of key cycles to purge the air from the system, assuming that piece you broke (no clue what you're describing) isn't causing either a supply or return problem. There is no need to use the Schraeder valve to purge air.

Where is the fuel pressure reading?????

Steve
 

shoshirtsandhat

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In all honesty I had the same problem,I got so ****** I cut an access panel under my seat because I replaced the pump 3 times... hard starting after the car sat overnite ,weird - rough idle , no real power over 3500 rpm's and it was the MAF, swap it out or clean it but be careful removing the MAF...You can buy MAF cleaner @ advance,do not use brake clean...I hope this helps you
 
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Eric VerValin

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Please do not scatter multiple threads relating to the same issue throughout the forum.

Threads merged.

That white piece on the top of the fuel tank has nothing to do with fuel delivery or return. It is part of the evaporative emissions system and has no bearing on the operation of the engine. It is not a "fuel check valve".

Steve



Not saying that you don't know what your talking about.. but if the gas tank isn't pressurized, you WILL have some kind of issues. Had it happen in the Malibu, from a bad seal on the gas cap. Car did act a bit strange.

Not sure how it would / could relate to a SHO, but IIRC the tanks should hold pressure.


Bring it out this weekend man, we'll put it on the gauge like before and see if it isn't past 30 this time.. ;)
 

boat

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In all honesty I had the same problem,I got so ****** I cut an access panel under my seat because I replaced the pump 3 times... hard starting after the car sat overnite ,weird - rough idle , no real power over 3500 rpm's and it was the MAF, swap it out or clean it but be careful removing the MAF...You can buy MAF cleaner @ advance,do not use brake clean...I hope this helps you

Sorry guys, try again..., thanks tho, but it is not the MAF sensor being dirty. It was cleaned and still ran like crap. The guy at advance suggested that maybe in the process of moving the tank around it stirred up some setiment from the bottom of the tank and some how got past the filter in the tank and clogged the fuel filter... The SHO is struggling to get gas when starting, it takes about 3-5 attempts starting, before it gets enough fuel to start, and even then sometimes it runs good, and sometimes bad. I bought a new fuel filter for $7.00, I am going to attempt to replace that tonight and see if that might be the problem... More to come...
 

boat

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Fuel filter didn't fix the problem either.... It is holding no pressure in the lines after the car is off. While running, (when it does), it holds just enough to run and not very well either. Sometimes dies. Stumbles at 3500 rpm. SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME!!!
 

bubba

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Fuel filter didn't fix the problem either.... It is holding no pressure in the lines after the car is off. While running, (when it does), it holds just enough to run and not very well either. Sometimes dies. Stumbles at 3500 rpm. SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME!!!


what's the worst thing? we drop the tank again? We will find it man. Just calm down. Getting all bent out of shape isn't going to fix this!
 

boat

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I am not bent out of shape. I don't care about having to dropping the tank again, I expect that is going to happen, not a big deal at all. I would just like to figure out why the car is running like crap. And get on with enjoying the car. She is just being feisty right now... I am trying to locate that white piece through someone here on the forum. That is my first place of attack, as I think that is culprit of the problem.

what's the worst thing? we drop the tank again? We will find it man. Just calm down. Getting all bent out of shape isn't going to fix this!
 
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boat

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This may sound really stupid, is there a possiblity the fuel lines got connected back up to the tank backwards or wrong??
 

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