Fuel pump change - drop tank or no?

[Eric VerValin]

Well... it dosen't have to be a 10... you could use a standard size that would work just fine... I must admit tho, those cliips weren't in a very easy to find location in Menards. And they weren't next to the bolts that would work with them either.. lol

 

[itwonder]

Alot of vehicles have access holes to remove the fuel pump without dropping the fuel tank, I don't see much of a difference if someone makes there own or if it comes from the factory like that.

The difference is vehicles factory equipped with an access panel for the fuel pump are engineered so the access does not create a hazard, and it is proven in crash tests. Cutting your own is a crap shoot; there is no engineering data to determine whether a hazard is created or not. It seems to me the small time savings is not worth the risk.

 

[stangeater]

The difference is vehicles factory equipped with an access panel for the fuel pump are engineered so the access does not create a hazard, and it is proven in crash tests. Cutting your own is a crap shoot; there is no engineering data to determine whether a hazard is created or not. It seems to me the small time savings is not worth the risk.

I cut the access hole, and liked the idea. Couldn't believe how easy it was to replace the pump that way. If you're going to get rear ended hard enough to have something come shooting thru your access door, you're probably going to be dead anyway, so what's the difference? To each their own.

 

[frosho]

I cut the access hole, and liked the idea. Couldn't believe how easy it was to replace the pump that way. If you're going to get rear ended hard enough to have something come shooting thru your access door, you're probably going to be dead anyway, so what's the difference? To each their own.

The issue isn't something coming through the door, it's how the sheet metal around it will react in the event of a crash. There are crumple zones incorporated around the passenger compartment, so that the rest of the car gets smooshed while the cabin stays intact. By cutting a hole in the floor, you could be weakening the sheet metal, which means you could be creating a new crumple zone right underneath your rear passengers. Emphasis on could.


With all that said, I'd have no problem installing an access door in my SHO. :angelnot:

 

[SuperHO]

being a honest to God redneck (look for pics of my spray painted car if you don't believe me) and lacking any sort of tool that can accomodate a cut-off wheel, i simply used a hammer and screwdriver to make my access hole. to cover it back up, i wrapped a piece of cardboard in aluminum foil and duct taped the puppy down. been fine for almost 4 years now.

 

[tomwalshco]

Super, you are definitely "The Man". If my car breaks down in the middle of the desert, I hope you're riding shotgun.

 

[sperold]

I am in the rust belt and my 90 tank dropped without incident. I had a reason to do this.... my tank was leaking. But I must say it went really well. I bought new straps and used the original bolts and captive nuts.
I was going to cut an access door while the tank was out (that is the best time as you don't have to be careful), but I decided against it when the removal went so well.
I bough a new neopreme O-ring and metal retaining ring for the tank, and I found it to be the hardest part of the job as the metal ring was a little too small in diameter and would fall off one side when I hammered on the opposite side to tighten it. I was glad the tank was out of the car for that part.
So suit yourself, if your new pump craps out, the door would be handy.

 

[Toolman]

Whole process took less time than it would take someone to get under the car and start dropping the tank.

Just inspected the pump on my 89. Dropped and reinstalled tank in less than an hour. It is incredibly simple and quick when rust is not an issue. Perhaps not quite as quick and simple as an access door, but I did not like the idea of cutting up my very clean 89. The track car, it has an access door, no question. With no seat/carpet/trim to remove, once could have the pump out within 3 minutes.

And that hour included removing 10+ gallons from the tank.

 

[tomwalshco]

Found this article:
http://www.shophoenixproject.com/fueldoor/fueldoor.htm

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

The difference is vehicles factory equipped with an access panel for the fuel pump are engineered so the access does not create a hazard, and it is proven in crash tests. Cutting your own is a crap shoot; there is no engineering data to determine whether a hazard is created or not. It seems to me the small time savings is not worth the risk.

All the engineering in the world will not save most of the rusty ass SHOs on the road when they get in a wreck.

And you are worried about cutting a little access panel in the floor?? :laugh_ti:


I cut mine, but not only to make the initial replacement easier, but to make future replacements easier. Once the panel is in, you can swap a pump out in 10 minutes, with the car on the ground.

 

[tomwalshco]

I cut mine, but not only to make the initial replacement easier, but to make future replacements easier. Once the panel is in, you can swap a pump out in 10 minutes, with the car on the ground.

NotSo - sounds like you've done it recently. Does the process in the link I posted describe the process accurately?

I've got a regular 99 Taurus Vulcan. Should be the same?

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Not recently. I did the initial modification on mine more than 8 years ago. But I have had the need to pop the cover to replace a brand new pump that died on my just 15k miles later.

The article you linked to is a fantastic guide.

I did the same, but used a die grinder and cutoff wheel.

No matter what you use, just try to keep your cutting tool as shallow as possible. My fuel lines were nowhere near the underside of the metal, but Ive heard stories about them being very close.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Your gen 3 should be similar, but Id confirm it with the Gen 3 guys here on the forum. I dont know what unibody differences there are back there.

 

[tomwalshco]

Thanks a bunch. I'm making the assumption that the pics in the link are taken from the driver's side back door?

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

that is correct

 

[hawkeye18]

I like how you guys think that cutting a little access door in the rear seat is going to weaken structural integrity any more than 15-20 years' worth of rust already has. If your car is in any state further north than South Carolina, guess what; it doesn't.

 

[tomwalshco]

Cut it open this morning. Was easy. Only confusing part was realizing the pics in the guy's link were taken from both sides and I really wasn't sure which side the connections were on. Used the seat belt buckle as a bearing and decided to favor the passenger side, Bingo, cut a little corner so I could peak in to see I was on the right track.

Went to get a new one at Advance and they were out of stock. So on my way to O'Reilly's I re-thought the thing and decided to opt for a relay replace 1st. Pump is a bit pricey.

But if it shoots craps again, at least I'll have the trap door cut. Was unsure how the electrical connection came off. Straight up? twist and pull? Pic 1 is door, pic 2 is location relative to back seat - front of car to right. That's WD 40 around the sleeve, not gasoline.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

Just inspected the pump on my 89. Dropped and reinstalled tank in less than an hour. It is incredibly simple and quick when rust is not an issue. Perhaps not quite as quick and simple as an access door, but I did not like the idea of cutting up my very clean 89. The track car, it has an access door, no question. With no seat/carpet/trim to remove, once could have the pump out within 3 minutes.

And that hour included removing 10+ gallons from the tank.

You are a "seasoned veteran" though Tim. And if I had a mint Porter-esque car, I would drop the tank, and the car would stay all original. However 99.999999999999999999% of the SHOs on this board are FAR from pristine.

For those worried about "structural integrity" being compromised by a small access panel ... look at where it is cut. There is no loss of integrity in that area worth mentioning with a panel. You lose more by rolling your fenders, or going with a CF hood. Or drilling out the spot welds on the strut towers. Or driving your car in the winter. It's a non issue.

 

[TYSHO]

Just inspected the pump on my 89. Dropped and reinstalled tank in less than an hour. It is incredibly simple and quick when rust is not an issue.

It's just as quick with rust, you snap the bolts and remove the u-nuts. When you put the tank back up, you install new u-nuts and bolts and don't have the problem any longer. For those where rust is an issue, once the tank rusts out you're going to have to remove the bolts anyway. I think cutting the door is a lazy man option. How does NESHO replace fuel pumps? I bet money they don't hack up their customers SHO's everytime....

How many people in the rust belt states have developed more rust problems from the floor being cut?

 

[Dinosauro]

Who saved the measurements from inside of closed doors to "cut-out" and from rear bulkhead forward to first side-to-side cut ? I copied the whole article but have moved and can't find it anymore !

Thanks!, Dinosauro