Frozen locked up rear caliper

[rubydist]

Terry, when you are out here in Colorado next month, we need to introduce you to rust-free cars, so you know what you should be working on...

 

[Mikey]

Nice flair man! Feel your pain brother. Ya go from the ABS block back. That's the way to do it. Like u said less unions. Wow stripped the distribution block and tried to rethread....cute. C'mon man! (Monday night football reference)

No, can't guess why those fittings are different.??? Bad shade tree mechanic maybe.

 

[sperold]

see post #12 of this thread
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?t...ho-have-ever-dreaded-doing-brake-lines.93524/

 

[tery]

Colorado has rust free??? But what do they do aBOUT THE ICY SNOW COVERED ROADS??
Soon,
T

 

[Mikey]

I'll never buy a used car above the rust belt again. My 99 spent 100k in florida, 20k in Virginia. Not a spot of rust, lesson learned.

 

[rubydist]

Colorado has rust free??? But what do they do aBOUT THE ICY SNOW COVERED ROADS??
Soon,
T

one of the fun things about Colorado is that most of the time (here on the front range) the snow is gone by noon of the next day, so the roads are clear and dry, so not a lot of salt, etc. used.

 

[Mikey]

Hey guess what changed pads and rotors and my passenger front locked up. Darn. Not gonnna mess around.....two calipers and two hoses ordered will be in Tues or Wed.

 

[tery]

Hey, thanks for your ideas and replies...
I looked under the hood just to see what I was getting into and yeah, totally frusted, that's a new word I made....f**cked+rusted
ingenious eh??
Anyway, clearly going to have to redo the lines in the front too, looking at the rotors, the little bit of driving around the block I did and using the brakes some, you can see that not much was happening on both right side calipers, I think the master cylinder is doing what it is supposed to

 

[TimboSHO]

and then...am I correct that it is fine to use a double flare in all my connections. I found a single flare connecting into the hydraulic hose, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter and in fact double flare may be even better. I'd love to hear feedback about that from the learned herein...Here's a pretty nice double flair...I'm getting straighter each time

You need to use what's called a 'bubble flare' at the proportioning block. If you look inside where they line goes, it's different in there than the line in this picture (which does need a double flared line)

Also, I've found that most backing plates in the rust belt either are too rusty and cause issues scraping on the rotor, or collect more moisture behind them and cause the rotor to rust. Just get rid of them! If you do remove them completely, you may need to shim the hub or rotor too if it mounts on the backing plate, otherwise the caliper bracket may come in contact with the rotor.

 

[tery]

Hey Timbo, thanks for the reply. I started to think and noticed just what you said about the flares, which kind goes where depends on the mating surface...duh...for me, but makes total sense of course...hurray for engineers. Anyway, happily it turns out the front brakes are not in terrible shape, some rust up there of course but I decided to splice under the drivers seat, just because it was a known quantity...meaning that that distribution block under the master cylinder is not leaking or in too bad a shape, so I'd rather leave it alone...my luck would be to maybe break off something and just have another bigger project. So I did the flares for the unions for the long lines and made the line to go across the back yesterday. Calipers...the right ones!!! are supposed to be in today and the other brake hose too...so then it's put it all back together and start bleeding...as it were..
Do you think if the rotors are at or a wee bit better than discard thickness that its okay to go ahead and use them...just another 40 bucks, but I cleaned them up with a brush etc and I think they're fine.
There was plenty of brake shoe left, like about half...and the front's have to have been done pretty recently before it was parked cause they are like at 3/4 thickness I'd guess...also saw a new left cv boot up under there ..oh and tie rod ends recently done too.

Here's an example of whats left on the front brakes

 

[sperold]

People usually give up on a car right after they have spent a lot of money on it, so there may be lots of new parts on it.

I would use the original rear brake rotors and pads. you may need to fiddle with those rotating rear puck / pistons on your new calipers to bring them out to compensate for the pad thickness that is not there. Do that little exercise befor you install, otherwise you have to keep taking the caliper off the bracket to turn the piston / puck.

Keep looking for close out sales at places like RockAuto and buy your new ones at a deep discount. Some rotors are coated so they don't rust on the cast surfaces.

Get your emergency brake cables working well while you are back there and grease / **** those few inches of exposed cable, and try to invent an outer casing to hold the grease in place, as that is where the cables become stuck with rust. Particularily when you let it sit unused.

And don't be like me and let that pig-tail return spring get away from you. I had to invent a system to put that thing back in place, as all the big name brake personnel just stared at me in disbelief when I showed them the detached pigtail.

 

[tery]

Hey, Thanks for all that great information...I have a burning question for you and the forum...I'm about to close the unions that I put in to go from under the drivers seat to the proportioning block. Does it make any difference which one goes to the right lower side of the block...the one more toward the rear of the car, or is that important..The right lower side feeds the line that goes to the drivers side rear wheel...and the left lower line on the block...the one more toward the front of the car feeds the top left of the block that goes across to the passenger side. The two lines under the drivers seat...one is right one is left, even thought they're an inch apart. Which one is supposed to go to which lower corner of the block?? Or does it matter?? Thanks in advance for your help!!

I guess in short, can someone send a diagram of the brake line routing for gen 11?? Thx
Terry

 

[tery]

The middle line in the front block goes to the Left Rear, which is the line with the curl at the rear valve which is the right side of the rear valve. The rear line in the front block goes to the Right Rear, which is the line without the curl at the rear valve which is the left side of the rear valve.

THANK You Shonut