Frozen locked up rear caliper

[tery]

So I'm driving around Sylvia again and I retorqued that cradle bolt and it went about i full turn before hitting 70 lbs torque....Most of the ride I didn't hear or feel anything shift, then a little, I think I'll take it up to 75 and see what that does, If it keeps getting loose, I'll be a feared that the body between the mount and the nut plate is crushing, but it doesn't seem that terribly rusty in there...
Anyway...So I'm driving around and start to feel a rub in the rear getting more pronounced...started to think I had a flat or something weird broken...got home just tin time and walked around..the right rear brakes and disk were ticking...like cooling off ticking, it wasn't too terrible, but it wouldn't just roll backwards down the drive way...not steep...Anyway.. So a locked up caliper...no surprise..sitting for a few years.
It came apart pretty easily and I happened to have a set of rebuilt calipers I bought from someone here that I didn't use cause the others were quite usable. Anyway...
My question after this long diatribe...is The disks that are in the box are 1/2 in thick 10 in diameter,,no fins, just a solid disk plate, whereas the ones I took of the car this evening are 10 in diameter and are 1" thick.. The calipers and bracket look correct, definitely rear...but am I looking at front disks??? without the fins?? Or are these just a different generation? Can I use them if the calipers and disks are a set...Maybe somethings go mixed up?? Anyway, any info will help and save me some time I'm sure.
Thx,
Terry

 

[SHOdded]

Can't access the Centric catalog to confirm (and FordParts.com doesn't list MC anymore)

Centric 1993 SHO Rear (Motorcraft BRR51?)


Centric 1989 SHO Rear (Motorcraft BRR44?)

 

[tery]

hey, thank you very much for that great information… So the question is can I use this solid disk on my 92…? I guess if the caliper fits, wear it..huh?
The illustration shows the vented disk listed on '89, but mine came off s 92..and it shows the solid disk off a 93, but I know I've taken vented disks off my 93?
So maybe they are interchangeable with the correct caliper??
wondering
Fred??

 

[SHOdded]

IDK. I guess that depends on what the normal range of piston movement is for that caliper?

 

[tery]

Since these disks were sent with these calipers, I'm guessing they work together, if it goes on the hub as it should, I'm thinking it'll be fine,
thx again, Now to try to find a backing plate, I know you can run without them, but I'm sure they're designed that way for a good reason
yes??
T

 

[SHOdded]

Let us know how it works out!

 

[tery]

will do, thank you...this site is terrific!!

 

[tery]

I just remembered, You're Manu..I'm arriving in the area on June 29th to do all that stuff with my fathers estate. I will definitely give you a call and we can just meet and talk about rust or something
Terry

 

[rubydist]

the calipers are different for the vented rotors than the solid rotors, so you need to use the right ones.

I don't recall if it is as simple as swap the rotor and caliper, or if the mounting plate is different between the two designs.

 

[sperold]

All of my rear brake problems have been traced back to the flex lines collapsing either due to internal failure or the in-line guide rusting and squeezing the flex line.

I would start there, rather than replacing the caliper and rotor.

Your foot can generate a lot of pressure which gets by the obstruction, then the pressure cannot drain back past the obstruction for a long time if ever.

It is a good idea to feel your alloy rims occasionally (especially on the back) to note any unusual heat.

 

[tery]

The solid plate rotor and caliper set up are not as big, the mounting plate isn't deep enough to even reach the mount for it...bolt hole are same distance but ...no...no swatting..."yeah, I told you that already?"'""..THank you guys, I just promised to report.
Someone did a lot of screwy work to the lines the drivers side still goes to the proportioning block and then to the wheel, but the left side is cut off at the block and just spliced with the line coming from the front. So..I suppose the rear brakes are not getting equal pressure, since my understanding is that is the function of the proportioning block..to distribute evenly according to braking and the frontal force of stopping lowering the front of the car so that spring dealey on the block equalizes things...or something along those lines...
Anyway, you guys are the best,
Thanks,
Terry
PS...the fuel filter was like blowing through a trumpet...ridiculous...possibly original...I know the fuel pump is going to be happy, but then it may blow its guts out since it used to operating again an almost blocked filter...whatever,,,
Don't really understand people not replacing a five dollar filter..


Can I hear your opinions about running without a backing plate??

 

[pjtoledo]

regards rear brakes 90 thru 95. from the factory 89-92 had 10" dia, 1" thick vented rear rotors. from the factory 93 thru 95 had 10" dia 1/2" solid rear rotors.
absolutely none of the parts interchange between the vented rotor systems and the solid rotor systems. the only common part is the bare ***** spindle with no mounting plate or hub attached to it.
the hub is different,
the backing plate is different,
the caliper mounting bracket is different,
the caliper is different,
the pads are different,
the dust shield may be the same. (what I suspect Tery calls a backing plate)

89s have their own unique rear brakes, the calipers & pads are the same 89 thru 92, but nothing else on the rear of an 89 fits any other year. for 89 only all 4 rotors are the same part. the spindle and hub for an 89 are the inner/outer roller bearing setup, the mounting plate does not have an offset like 90-92.


Perry

 

[pjtoledo]

hey, thank you very much for that great information… So the question is can I use this solid disk on my 92…? I guess if the caliper fits, wear it..huh?
The illustration shows the vented disk listed on '89, but mine came off s 92..and it shows the solid disk off a 93, but I know I've taken vented disks off my 93?
So maybe they are interchangeable with the correct caliper??
wondering
Fred??

what size vented disk on that 93??? a previous owner may have put a "kit" on for larger rotors, or replaced ALL the parts to get a 90-92 vented system.
89 vs 92 rear vented disks are similar, but not identical.


Perry

 

[itwonder]

What appears to be rear brake caliper sticking may not be a problem with the caliper at all; it's time to change the master cylinder. The new manufacture Chinese ones work great.

 

[tery]

Thanks very much guys...I'll get back to you after I replace a few parts here. I'm hoping master is okay and it seems to be working fine for the other wheels..Soon,
T

 

[rubydist]

that pressure regulator at the rear axle was notorious for getting frozen up, so it most likely is not moving anyway, but I do not like the idea of one side going through that and the other not (if I understand what you are saying right) - I would make both of the rear lines routing in a similar manner.

 

[zak]

In addition to Fred's suggestion, the clamps that route the cable can rust inward crushing the flex lines.

 

[tery]

Hey Guys, thank you for your ideas...I don't like the set up either, it looks dumb and I'm sure it doesn't work as intended. I've got an extra proportioning block that I cleaned and it flows through like it should, so while I'm waiting for the parts, I'll go ahead...when the rain stops.. and replace that and put the lines in the way they're supposed to be...
Yeah...pretty tricky??...pretty stupid, although I hate to criticize...

 

[Mikey]

Now that's a new one. Skip two holes in the distribution block hmmm...
Sperold nailed it, get some new hoses while your back there. Chased my tail on that issue too long. Put a new set on my 99 before it hit the road, may have been ok, but for the piece of mind I changed them.

Someone succumb to the temptation of skipping that block because the threads are different than what's up front or on a standard line. Bet ya a dollar no flare tool was around.

 

[tery]

Well//, I figured out why they bypassed that part of the proportioning valve,..., they, or someone cross threaded the nut and then tried to fix it and made it worse, What's left of the threads doesn't start till halfway in the hole and I've tried gently a number of times and the nut threads just don't catch, it'd have to be rethreaded I think to be right. the one side looks kinda okay in the picture but the other side doesn't have a clean starting thread. I supposed it could be tapped , but so far, I'm still finding what I need either repairable on the car, or at the jy.



And of course, you guys were right...I could at least blow a high C on that fuel filter, ya can't get any air at all through the hydraulic hoses at all, so replacing those, but thankfully I'm getting better and taking off rusty things without tearing them in half...PB, patience, heat, and that trick where ya put a little tightening pressure against it first, then start trying to back it out. Also I think some light hammer tapping has been helping too.

Then of course as I was working on replacing the top line from the block to the hose, I look up the car and the bitch is dripping in that customary place where they put that stupid mount that hold the line up against the body, nice and tight where the water can just sit there and eat up the line...So I just took out the whole line up to the first big bend under the drivers seat, From there up to the master looks pretty clean. So..Splice in with a union on both lines and run em back to the block. The line going across to the pass rear up by the gas tank was also of course rotten, so I pulled that out. Weird thing was that the pass side hydraulic hose had a smaller nut holding the steel line in the hydraulic end than the drivers side. The hose looks the same but it is no question the next smaller fitting.




Anybody want to venture a guess why the ends of these two fittings are different. I thought maybe someone cranked down so ******* the left one that the flare kinda spread the opening?? These were the two top fittings on the proportioning block.




and then...am I correct that it is fine to use a double flare in all my connections. I found a single flare connecting into the hydraulic hose, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter and in fact double flare may be even better. I'd love to hear feedback about that from the learned herein...Here's a pretty nice double flair...I'm getting straighter each time



Maybe I should just start at the master and go back to the block all new...Probably be easier cause it's less flares. If I splice into what left of the good line I've got 4 extra flares to do. If I just start at the master, I'll just have those two, and then the two at the block and the two to go over the gas tank to pass side. I made the short line from the block to the drivers rear wheel today, so that's all set.